Black tank valve replacement help

[twindman]

Taking my unit for some annual maintenance, so I asked dealer about putting in Valterra valve on the black tank. He said it would take 2-3 hours to do the work and drop the underbelly cover - IF the valve was replacable. He said the OEM valves don't fit the same as Valterra and sometimes they take major work. i.e. 6 or 7 hours
In the past, this service guy has been reliable (10 years or so). Don't get the 6 hours stuff, as when I was in Whitehorse, YK a dealer there dropped the belly and loosened the screws a bit and I think it was 1 hour service time.
Suggestions? Oh, I would try it myself but crawling around on my back doesn't work so good anymore.

[1retired06]

On my 2015, I replaced all four OEM valves (cable pulls) with Valterra threaded rod pulls, took me most of a Saturday. However, switching from cable to direct pull required minor plumbing reroute and relocation of pull handles. Lost a bit of time going back to Home Depot for a couple of parts. Do not understand what your dealer is talking about.

[Razrbk]

Originally Posted by twindman

Taking my unit for some annual maintenance, so I asked dealer about putting in Valterra valve on the black tank. He said it would take 2-3 hours to do the work and drop the underbelly cover - IF the valve was replacable. He said the OEM valves don't fit the same as Valterra and sometimes they take major work. i.e. 6 or 7 hours
In the past, this service guy has been reliable (10 years or so). Don't get the 6 hours stuff, as when I was in Whitehorse, YK a dealer there dropped the belly and loosened the screws a bit and I think it was 1 hour service time.
Suggestions? Oh, I would try it myself but crawling around on my back doesn't work so good anymore.

Recently replaced all my OEM valves with Valterra (1 black & 2 grey) - about a 4 hrs job.

[speedster100]

took me about 45 minutes to do my black tank valve, it takes longer to lower the cover under the trailer than it does to change the valve and run the new cable.

I had changed the grey water valve prior so I used self tapping screws when I put the cover under the trailer back in position so it was a quick job this time. First time it took about 11/2 hrs...

[twindman]

So did any of you have trouble getting the old valve off or the new one to install?
Thanks.

[speedster100]

No not at all, 4 bolts hold it in. I did put a little silicone on the gaskets of the new valve to hold the new gaskets to the valve gate about an hour before installing. It helps hold them while you slide the valve gate in.

If you are going to do the job yourself make sure you drive the trailer up on some blocks or wood planks then lower the front end down. That way you will have no leakage while changing out the valves. If you don't do that you will surely have a wet and not so nice experience.

It is really a very simple job..... As I say hardest part was the initial removal (pulling down about 3ft - 4ft) of the bottom cover. You just need enough of it lowered and pulled back to get at the valve and allow you to route the new cable.

The kit from valterra comes with the allen wrench required to tighten the set screw on the cable. Don't lose it....

[Carl n Susan]

There is a lip on each side of the valve which fits into the hub of the pipe connections. It is not too big but I recall it hangs up unless you can get the drain pipe to clear.

On most rigs you can cut the sewer pipe downstream from the Y connection (which ties in the black and grey tank drain lines). Cut out about an inch of pipe and then you can get clearance to remove the valve easily. It also helps when reinstalling and to not let the seals move causing more problems. Use a 3" no-hub flexible connector to cover the cut area. Doing this also gives a little flex to the drain lines and may prevent future cracking of the spud on the tanks and causing a more difficult to repair leak.

There have been several discussions on the change in the past. Search on "black tank" or "valve replacement" to find them. Here are some:
http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...ad.php?t=66825

http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...ght=black+tank

http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...ght=black+tank

[twindman]

After more research, it appears that the valve hubs(?) that bolt to the valve assembly, just slide on to the sewer pipe from the tank and the drain pipe on the other side. Is this true? I thought you always had to cut the pipe, as the valves were glued on.
So from what people say, cut the drain pipe to shorted it and inch and use a rubber radiator type clamp to attach the pieces together. Why would my dealer say 7 hours???
Thanks.

[prndl]

Originally Posted by twindman

So did any of you have trouble getting the old valve off or the new one to install?
Thanks.

The old valves slide right out given a little space for the lip to pall the flanges.
The new valterra valves have tabs on the outside of two of the bolts that go thru the flanges. I had a tough time getting the valves in place and with the tabs outside of the flanges. Three times the tab got caught between the valve and the flange. Good thing I tested the install with tap water

The solution for me was to remove two screws from the valve extension and back it off the valve so I can install the valve between the flanges then slide the extension back over with the tabs on the outside, put in the bolts and replace the screws.

Make sure you allow room at the back of the utility center for the cables to extend without bending for at least 6 inches. I had to cut the wall panel to fit the cables without binding, that area is hidden by the white panel when finished.
See picture

http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...&pictureid=215

[speedster100]

No you don't have to cut pipe, just slide out old one and slide in new one. Should be enough flex in piping to do this without any cutting.

[beeje]

Although you do not have to cut any pipes, I took one look and grabed a saw zal and cut the 3" pipes just behin the drop dpwn area. Removed the 8 bolts holding the 2 vavles togther and removed the entite y shaped drain pipe.

By doing so I had WAY more room to route the new cables/tie them down like they are supposed to be. Kind of gross but I could look into each tank and clean them out realy good with o hose. It was not so bad, just let the water drain into a bucket.

With the piping out of the way I could get up in there and look back into the belly and inspect things. Also I could see what was going on, on top of the tanks.

One thing I found out was that both tanks were not secured at all meaning they could move from front to back by simply pushing or pulling on them. Know way that should be able to happen so I secured them.

The 3" pipe was put back together wit a rubber fernco coupling.