Bed is loose from slide

[ColoradoKampers]

I can’t find any current pictures, or any that look exactly like my set-up, so I wanted to see what everyone’s opinion is. One corner of the bed has come loose from the slide wall. As you can see from the first picture, the obvious problem is that two left-most screws have pulled loose from the slide wall (the screws move freely in the wall holes). The 3 others along the 1x2 were still in the wall, but don’t appear to be holding very well. The other corner seems to be anchored soundly still. The 2nd picture is the upper half of the bed, the 3rd picture is the lower half (note the rollers mounted to the floor)

My solution is to use 4 L-brackets (4th picture) to fasten the upper rail which extends the full length of the bed “box” to the slide floor. I’m thinking I’ll put one bracket up fairly close to the slide wall, and then another fairly close to the edge of the slide floor (2 on each side positioned as shown in the last picture). The slide floor panel is 1" thick, so I'm hoping that a total of 16 3/4" screws will do the trick. This seems like the best way to secure the bed frame to the slide and to prevent the bed from shifting forward as others have suspected.

Comments, or better solutions?
Thanks!

NOTE: All pictures are taken looking toward the “headboard” and the slide wall.

[Foldbak]

I think the idea is sound just don't pernitrate the bottom of the slide out. While you're open look closely at the frame that is on the rollers. Mine failed and the dealer replaced the 1x2 with 2x4. Keep us in the loop

[Todd & Mary]

Keystone for whatever reason doesn't attach the bed particularly robustly! It has been debated in another thread that they may do that so you dont damage the slide motors when you catch something in the slide path when opening the slide, but rip the bed loose from the slide. When it happened to us the sleep number compressor got caught in there. I rebuilt the entire bed replacing the top so the bed was supported to the edge, and replaced the 1x2 with a 2x4 and installed angle brackets like you, only my brackets were very wide and I installed 8 screws in each and one on each side 2x4. Just make sure you don't use screws that are too long. I used #10 x 1" construction screws. Wish i would have clipped a few photos when it was open. I also put insulation in the open area below the bed in the slide. So your on the right path. Just make sure you dont catch anything in that area when opening the slide or it may damage the slide motors. I am sure it will never pull apart again!

[Mikendebbie]

Todd - did you install the angle brackets over the carpet? I think that is carpet in the photos - right?

[Daryles]

FYI, there are NO wall studs to anchor the screws into. I put numerous 1.5" fat screws through the 1x2 at the headboard along with 4" L brackets attaching the headboard to the side boards.
If you are reinforcing the sideboards to the moving flooring I would not use any screws longer than 1/2" so it does not penetrate through the moving floor.
I also added additional wheels to the foot of the bed.

https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...t=slide+wheels. #26

[Todd & Mary]

Originally Posted by Mikendebbie

Todd - did you install the angle brackets over the carpet? I think that is carpet in the photos - right?

Yes, I screwed the angle brackets right on top of the carpeting, I also put reflectix in the opening under the head of the bed. #10 x 1" construction screws, I also replaced the 1x2 with a 2x4 and screwed that to the wall as well.

[Mikendebbie]

My bed frame has not experienced any problems yet...I just want to be prepared when it happens...so more questions for Todd and Daryles.
Look at the sketch below...

1. The OPs bed frame head pulled away from the slide-out wall.
Aren't there aluminum studs in the slide wall to anchor the bed frame head to?
2. If you anchor the bed head frame to the wall - I assume the addition of 4 angle brackets screwed to the floor is "good insurance"? If the bed head frame can not be anchored to aluminum studs - then the L-brackets screwed to the floor become the primary frame anchors - right?
3. I re-read the older thread that Daryles provided the link and I sketched in the 3 casters you added to support the toe of the bed. Daryles - in part of your explanation you describe adding 1x2 pieces into the "hollow bed frame". I did not fully understand your description. I sketched up the hollow bed frame the way I assume it is constructed - bottom plate+vertical studs+top plate with thin plywood sides. I assume there is a vertical stud where the piston attaches. Where did you add blocking to the hollow body bed frame?
4. When my time comes - I plan to add L-brackets in the horizontal plane to ALL corners of the bed frame and hollow body frame to strengthen the whole affair. I think Daryles mentioned this in the other thread.
5. In all the photos I see various 120V wires run under the bed. Daryles - how do you keep your casters from running over the wires?

[Foldbak]

Originally Posted by Mikendebbie

My bed frame has not experienced any problems yet...I just want to be prepared when it happens...so more questions for Todd and Daryles.
Look at the sketch below...

1. The OPs bed frame head pulled away from the slide-out wall.
Aren't there aluminum studs in the slide wall to anchor the bed frame head to?
2. If you anchor the bed head frame to the wall - I assume the addition of 4 angle brackets screwed to the floor is "good insurance"? If the bed head frame can not be anchored to aluminum studs - then the L-brackets screwed to the floor become the primary frame anchors - right?
3. I re-read the older thread that Daryles provided the link and I sketched in the 3 casters you added to support the toe of the bed. Daryles - in part of your explanation you describe adding 1x2 pieces into the "hollow bed frame". I did not fully understand your description. I sketched up the hollow bed frame the way I assume it is constructed - bottom plate+vertical studs+top plate with thin plywood sides. I assume there is a vertical stud where the piston attaches. Where did you add blocking to the hollow body bed frame?
4. When my time comes - I plan to add L-brackets in the horizontal plane to ALL corners of the bed frame and hollow body frame to strengthen the whole affair. I think Daryles mentioned this in the other thread.
5. In all the photos I see various 120V wires run under the bed. Daryles - how do you keep your casters from running over the wires?

Your drawing skills are getting really good! What program are you using? I'm sure they attempted to hit the studs. And Daryles casters don't go in far enough to hit the cables.

[ColoradoKampers]

Originally Posted by Todd & Mary

Yes, I screwed the angle brackets right on top of the carpeting, I also put reflectix in the opening under the head of the bed. #10 x 1" construction screws, I also replaced the 1x2 with a 2x4 and screwed that to the wall as well.

Todd, thanks! - I wondered if you bothered to remove the carpet under the brackets. Do you think the reflectix helped?

[Mikendebbie]

Originally Posted by Foldbak

Your drawing skills are getting really good! What program are you using? I'm sure they attempted to hit the studs. And Daryles casters don't go in far enough to hit the cables.

I am using Snagit - its a screen shot capture tool on my company issued laptop. My workload has been a bit slow lately leaving lots of time for frilly sketches.

I took a shot of ColoradoKamper's photo #1 and pasted it into a blank MSWord page...then took a screen shot of the photo in the middle of the page with room on top, bottom and sides to add the sketch lines. I am sure there are better ways to do it. Snagit is somewhat hard to work with but it's free to me and generally works well enough to illustrate a question...as you know - a picture is worth a whole bunch of words.

ColoradoKamper - what software did you use to illustrate your proposed fix? That was a great illustration, as was Daryles' in the previous thread.

A big THANKYOU to all the forum members that post photos and illustrations along with questions and solutions!

[ColoradoKampers]

Originally Posted by Mikendebbie

ColoradoKamper - what software did you use to illustrate your proposed fix? That was a great illustration, as was Daryles' in the previous thread.

A big THANKYOU to all the forum members that post photos and illustrations along with questions and solutions!

Mike, I'm using an old, ancient Microsoft Image Composer that was first delivered with FrontPage '98! So, probably nothing anyone else has. However, just a right-click "Copy Image" will screen capture these images off of the forum, ready for pasting into MS Word or whatever photo editor you prefer.

And, agreed - a picture really is worth a 1000 words!

Thanks to everyone that contributed! The brackets are on order:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H55DX34
as is the reflectix: https://www.amazon.com/REFLECTIX-BP2.../dp/B000BPF22U

[Daryles]

Mike, nice picture and drawing

1. Nope. There are no wall studs in the headboard wall. In my link there is a picture of me holding a stud finder looking for a wall stud. None there. I drove fat screws at alternating 45⁰ angles to help prevent them pulling out.
2. Colorados idea of Using L brackets to anchor the sideboard to the moving floor is a good idea. Use short screws to prevent them going all the way through the bottom.
3. When you remove the plywood floor of the bed you will see the hollow cavity (picture #5) between the inside and outside wall. The entire bed frame is made of 1x2" with 1/4" Luan stapled over it. That's why I cut and fit more 1x2" and slid them into the cavity and drove screws through them. Same with the 4" screws anchoring the bed wheel 2x4 board. They go through the additional 1x2s I added.
4. L brackets anchoring the sideboard to the moving floor is a good idea.
5. In the picture, the bed is extended away from the hole in the floor the wiring is coming through. The wheels running over the wires is not an issue.

[ColoradoKampers]

Originally Posted by Daryles

5. In the picture, the bed is extended away from the hole in the floor the wiring is coming through. The wheels running over the wires is not an issue.

In my early 2020 model (delivered Jan, 2020) the wheels have been replaced by two rollers attached to the floor. So, even less possibility of rolling over something, since they no longer move. This also eliminates the "denting" of the vinyl.

[Foldbak]

Originally Posted by ColoradoKampers

In my early 2020 model (delivered Jan, 2020) the wheels have been replaced by two rollers attached to the floor. So, even less possibility of rolling over something, since they no longer move. This also eliminates the "denting" of the vinyl.

The newer models have the roller in the floor.

[Foldbak]

Originally Posted by ColoradoKampers

In my early 2020 model (delivered Jan, 2020) the wheels have been replaced by two rollers attached to the floor. So, even less possibility of rolling over something, since they no longer move. This also eliminates the "denting" of the vinyl.

The newer models have the roller in the floor as shown in the first post.

[Papa Z]

Just finished repair of our 2022 Montana 3231CK. I have been cautious of over building slide wall to bed frame attachment for two reasons: One, I agree it is better to have damage to bed framing than slide out box. Second, I am considering having the "Vroom Slide Out system" installed in the future so being able to "uncouple" the bed box fairly easily will become important. I am attaching a few pictures which show my model years poor construction. Our major issue was misalignment due to staples not holding and a very poorly placed floor roller. My wife "may have" inadvertently overloaded the storage box as well. BIG THANK YOU to all who have added their experiences in dealing with this issue! I am attaching some pictures of my model year system and the repairs made. I have more pictures if anyone is interested.

[Carl n Susan]

Originally Posted by Papa Z

.... I am attaching some pictures of my model year system and the repairs made. I have more pictures if anyone is interested.

Pictures? If you are having trouble; read Posts #8 & #25 here --> https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...ad.php?t=70323

[Papa Z]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CaUsuhGSjjhBhCaFA

Notes: Used gorilla glue to bond 11/32 plywood to slide wall. Squared all joints. Added metal bracing. Moved floor roller into proper position. Then secured frame to wall.

[twindman]

It seems unthinkable that Keystone would make a fairly large wall section with no studs whatsoever!! So is it just one big square with studs on the edges? Crazy.

[LeftOverParts]

Nice work! We have a ‘21 3231CK that had the same problem and probably overloaded the box too. I couldn’t tell from your pictures if you added rollers or support at the foot of the bed box. If you didn’t, I would recommend that to eliminate the cantilever when the slide is closed. Without them, IMO, some risk for another disconnect remains. One of the links above shows casters near the foot and the same thread also shows the rollers we used.