Level up

[Carl n Susan]

The 2nd pic in Bob's post #6 is the standard, cheap self resetting CB that comes with the RV.

[Mikendebbie]

What is the amp rating of those?
Never mind - I see that you labeled it as 50 amp.
Should those ever be replaced?

[jeffba]

Originally Posted by Mikendebbie

What is the amp rating of those?
Never mind - I see that you labeled it as 50 amp.
Should those ever be replaced?

If it goes to your hydraulic pump, then yes it should. I changed mine out before our first trip

[Jeff & Gail]

Wow I'll need to keep that pic with all the labels. Unit works great leaving MOnday for Newfoundland nice to not worry about issues. Thanks everyone

[ronboy]

Originally Posted by CMDSGTMJR

2019 3021rl level up puts jacks down fine and levels automatically fine but when retracting my jacks go up half way then stop I wait with finger off button 5 seconds later I can run jack all the way up. Then go thru this with the next jac and so on until all 6 jacks are retracted non going straight up with out stalling halfway up. Any thoughts?

Mine were doing the same thing. Figured out that when you retract the front to connect to your tow vehicle only retract them far enough to connect your hitch. Then do auto retract and everything should fully retract. If I fully retracted the front when connecting the truck the auto retract would not function properly. Hope Thais helps.

2019 2130 rl
2016 F350 srw

[GreG L.]

Lots of information, I have a question. Is it better to replace the 50 with an 80 or cross connect the 12V battery side of the 50 to the 80 and move the pup to the 80?

[rohrmann]

It seems to be better to not re-engineer the way the rig is wired and just upgrade the breaker that feeds the hydraulic pump to the 80 amp breaker. Everything else there is fine. I changed out, what on my rig was a 40 amp breaker, with the 80 amp breaker, and I have never had a single issue with the other small breaker that came with the rig. This is one of those, ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t mess with it’ things.

[Stan and Linda]

Hi folks, so ive read all the threads and was very confused. So let me get this straight, the fuse that needs to be changed based on the pictures is the red plastic covered item with the two points sticking out. I thought that was a junction block. So the red plastic piece is the actual fuse?

[Mikendebbie]

Here is a pic of my front compartment labelled as I understand the previous posts in this thread...

[richfaa]

We have never changed the breakers on either of our Montana's the 063400 or the 13 3402.We learned early on not to hit the in or out switch and let it run. We bring in the bedroom and kitchen released the switch for maybe 10 seconds then bring in the opposing slide release the switch for maybe 10 seconds them bring in the main slide. Never a problem. We do have two 80 amp breakers we purchased years ago still in the box.

[jeffba]

Originally Posted by richfaa

We have never changed the breakers on either of our Montana's the 063400 or the 13 3402.We learned early on not to hit the in or out switch and let it run. We bring in the bedroom and kitchen released the switch for maybe 10 seconds then bring in the opposing slide release the switch for maybe 10 seconds them bring in the main slide. Never a problem. We do have two 80 amp breakers we purchased years ago still in the box.

So you do need the 80 amp breakers. you just do not have to install them.

[Arkware]

Mikendebbie,

looking at your pic (worth 1000 words...) it looks to me like the 80 amp breaker is attached to your inverter, but not to the hydraulic pump?

[JABURKHOLDER]

I know there are multiple threads talking about the 80 amp breaker replacement, and I do not dispute that solution. I operate differently.
DISCLAIMER 1: This only applies if you never boondock. (I never boondock)
I don't run anything until I am connected to shore power. Upon arrival at an RV park I park, hook up to shore power, lower the landing gear, unhitch, level the RV, then run the slides out. When departing, I bring the slides in, hitch up, bring up the levelers and landing gear then disconnect shore power and stow the cord. Never a problem with anything starting and stopping.
DISCLAIMER 2: This works for ME and has always been part of my routine. I can see other folks forgetting they are plugged into shore power and start to drive away. I get that. This is MY routine, just saying.

[richfaa]

Originally Posted by jeffba

So you do need the 80 amp breakers. you just do not have to install them.

At the time, 2006 from reading this and other forums I was convinced that we would have to replace the OEM breakers so we purchased them.We then found that we really did not need them and not to take as fact every post we read on a forum.

[Mikendebbie]

Arkware said -
Mikendebbie, looking at your pic (worth 1000 words...) it looks to me like the 80 amp breaker is attached to your inverter, but not to the hydraulic pump?

All I can say is that my OEM 50 amp circuit breaker in that same position started tripping (late Dec 2018 11 months after we bought the unit new). I installed the new 80 amp circuit breaker first week of Jan 2019 + tightened all connections I could find in the front compartment (a couple of connections on the hydraulic pump were "loose" and took a quarter turn to be goodentite) - and it cured my issues.

I am not an electrician, basically scared to deal with anything electrical. I don't know how it works - I just press the "out" button for the main slides and now it works everytime. For me it was a cheap fix.

[Arkware]

Mike,
No worries. I thought I saw something odd and wanted to ask about it.
Tightening the loose connections would also help a bunch.

Happy that it cured your issue.

[Jeff & Gail]

My issue was a loose connection also but I put the 80 amp in anyways. The comment about being hooked up to shore power to run the pump, when trouble shooting with lippert they said the pump runs off the battery and shore power or truck would have little affect. A low battery or loose connection creates heat thru resistance and raise the amp demand which can exceed the 50 amp provided by keystone. Lippert on their written operating manual calls for a 50 amp to 100 amp fuse for the pump. I choose to only move the pump to 80 amps and leave the trailer service at 50 amps into the service panel as my coach is still under warranty. I have not had any problem since with the pump.

[Castner's]

Try this. After hooking back up to the tow vehicle with out bring any jacks up, you can bring the front jacks up in the manual mode and the rest of the jacks with adjust to what you are doing. Once hooked up, go and press the up arrow with the unit turned on hit it once for manual mode and hit it again and it will state raise all jacks. Press enter and all your jacks should retract. Just make sure you are hooked up to the toe vehicle first.

[ChuckS]

With properly charged batteries and an upgraded 80 amp breaker for hyd pump motor circuit the unit will operate just fine without shore power. The pump motor can draw almost 70 amps or better during operation and especially in colder weather.

Mine operates fine at 20 degree temps with no shore power... key is clean tight connections from battery to dual polarity solenoid and 80 amp breaker in pump motor power line

[Ram Montana High Country]

Originally Posted by ChuckS

With properly charged batteries and an upgraded 80 amp breaker for hyd pump motor circuit the unit will operate just fine without shore power. The pump motor can draw almost 70 amps or better during operation and especially in colder weather.

Mine operates fine at 20 degree temps with no shore power... key is clean tight connections from battery to dual polarity solenoid and 80 amp breaker in pump motor power line

Would/Should the connects be protected with anti-corrosion spray like we use on the battery?