Disc brake progress

[Dave W]

Mark & Scott,
Just a thought about using 9/16" lugs and nuts. These are probably 60 degree taper seat fasteners and if you are using the same wheels, make sure that you have enough surface area on the wheel for those larger lug nuts to do their job - in other words, plenty of contact area

[scottz]

My wife says that is why I do these projects; so I can buy more tools. I have a Milwaukee 24V impact wrench, but usually use air. Maybe I'll throw the Milwaukee in the truck tool box for changing flats. Problem is keeping batteries charged; those LiOn batteries self discharge in a couple months.

[scottz]

Originally Posted by Dave W

Mark & Scott,
Just a thought about using 9/16" lugs and nuts. These are probably 60 degree taper seat fasteners and if you are using the same wheels, make sure that you have enough surface area on the wheel for those larger lug nuts to do their job - in other words, plenty of contact area

I'll check today, thanks.

[scottz]

Dave, I should have asked you the same question I asked Mark about the hard lines. Got any photos?

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by scottz

Dave, I should have asked you the same question I asked Mark about the hard lines. Got any photos?

No, Scott, I don't have any brake plumbing photos. I may take some in 2-3 weeks (if it ever warms up enough to melt the @#$% snow) as I have to fix a short damaged section plus install new springs. I got so wound up in the project last spring, I just plain forgot

[MARK A]

Originally Posted by scottz

Mark, take a look at this photo, tell me if I have it laid out correctly; the only drawing I could find is pretty vague. Where did you attach the tee that goes on the end of the 19' hard line? Side of frame rail? What did you do with the excess hard line? On my Montana it is 15' from the battery compartment where I mounted the actuator to the front axle. I rented a flare kit, guess I'll cut off any excess. What's the purpose of the flex line after the 36" hard line? Guess it will become clearer as I start mounting stuff.

There was JUST enough 1/4” line by the time I got finished going around all the shackles and up to the drop frame and over to about mid point in the generator compartment. I would’ve probably made a couple nice 6-8” coils rather than cut. The Tee I attached to the frame with a couple of the little straps they supplied. Then back to the rear tee same thing. My rubber lines point to the under side so not to rub on the frame or spring. Sorry I’m upside down.
Mark

[scottz]

Thanks Mark

[MARK A]

We just got back today from a short trip to the lake with the grandsons, and I REALLY like the brake system. I am so happy I went this route instead of the exhaust brake on the pickup, even though it would've been a grand cheaper.

Mark

[masterdrago]

Originally Posted by scottz

My wife says that is why I do these projects; so I can buy more tools. I have a Milwaukee 24V impact wrench, but usually use air. Maybe I'll throw the Milwaukee in the truck tool box for changing flats. Problem is keeping batteries charged; those LiOn batteries self discharge in a couple months.

Scott, are you sure your Milwaukee is not using the NiMH batteries? They are the ones that self discharge so badly. At least in my house. My Li-ion batteries on my big drill driver I keep onboard the 5r seem to hold up astonishingly well. See http://www.batteryeducation.com/2012...rge-rates.html

[scottz]

Originally Posted by masterdrago

Scott, are you sure your Milwaukee is not using the NiMH batteries? They are the ones that self discharge so badly. At least in my house. My Li-ion batteries on my big drill driver I keep onboard the 5r seem to hold up astonishingly well. See http://www.batteryeducation.com/2012...rge-rates.html

I think they are LiOn; I'll go look. These are 28V Milwaukee tools; I had a whole set of them in my company truck before I retired; this is the only one I own. When I was working, I would only need to use them every few months. Invariably when I pulled them out the batteries would be dead. It was most inconvenient since I usually worked at places without AC. I had to remember to take all the batteries out the night before I needed the tool (if I knew I needed it) and charge them. I started keeping all the batteries and chargers in a container so I could just pull it out of the truck and charge them without taking every tool out. I called Millwaukee to complain about it and they said that was normal. Like I said; most inconvenient. My tools with NiCd batteries seem to hold a charge. This doesn’t jive with self-discharge rate link you sent; no explanation. Maybe it is just a Milwaukee think.

[MARK A]

Originally Posted by scottz

Dave, I should have asked you the same question I asked Mark about the hard lines. Got any photos?

Are you making any progress?

Mark

[scottz]

Yes, I worked on it two days last week; life got in the way and I just got back to it today. I have all the hydraulics and electrics done; all the new races installed (that was fun), and one of the hubs finished. I'll get the other three on tomorrow. I'm going to have to wait for Bill to send me a sleeve for one of the caliper bolts; one missing. If everything goes right, by the end of day tomorrow all I will have left is the last caliper and bleeding the system. As I suspected, the hydraulics were the toughest part. If I had it do over again, I would have ordered a copper-nickel brake line kit. It's pretty hard to make the steel lines look good; not a big deal just cosmetic. No other issues so far.

Thanks for checking.

[MARK A]

Ya, the brakeline is the worst part, i bought some rubber vacuum hose and split it to form a ‘cover’ where I felt it needed it. I laid under there for a considerable time contemplating dropping the coroplast and running it through the belly but I soon came to my senses.

Mark

[Dave W]

One thing I don't recall mentioning is that I replaced the original caliper bleeder screws with Russell Speed Bleeders. These will allow you to easily bleed the brakes without having someone else pulling the break away pin or stand on the TV brake pedal. They should be a standard Russell item, 1/4-28, but you should verify that size. You only need four for the uper bleed screw, not for the lower bleeders. I have speed bleeders on my truck as well as my '31 Ford street rod - and they make brake bleeding super easy, They also keep your DW from hearing those infamous words "Pump it up and hold it - dammit I said HOLD!"


http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/speed-bleeders/

or these:

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

[scottz]

Progress report: All Done! I finished bleeding the system yesterday. All that remains now is a test drive (controller has been reset). I'll be busy with other activities for a couple of days, but will post results soon. I also have photos that I will sort and post.

[scottz]

Photos of installation

[scottz]

Installation photos

[scottz]

Last photo

[scottz]

PS: it is no wonder my old brakes were so bad. One of them had blown a grease seal, another didn't look like it was mechanically correct. This on a trailer less than a year old.

[AZ Traveler]

Scott,

Lookin good - congratulations! When should I drag mine to Mancos to let you continue to hone your skills?

Had you greased your bearings with a grease gun after getting your rig or do you believe the seal was blown during manufacture?