Domestic 1350

[1retired06]

Since Keystone replaced our refrigerator in our 2015 we have had no problem with it being cold, runs 35/37 all day,although it takes a good 12 hours to get there. But the external fans ran constantly. Installed a four inch blade fan behind the bottom vent facing straight up. Sitting here in Williamsburg VA, fist trip since I put it in, and those noisy external fans have not kicked in over the past 24 hours. Guess we will see how well it works when the weather gets really hot.

[waynemoore]

How do you power the fan? I have been thinking of doing the same so am very interested in how you did it and what fan you used. My fans don't run all that much but anything I can do to keep the system cool.

[oldelmer1]

There is an outlet inside the lower outside vent for the fridge to plug into, but its a single plug. You can replace it with a double, or get a short extension cord and use it.

[waynemoore]

Do you just let it run 24/7 or did you put a timer on it? I was thinking of setting a timer to run it say from 9 AM to 8 PM in the summer. Don't think I would need it dusting the cooler months.

[1retired06]

Used a short heavy duty power cord to run both. No timer or cutoff for now. Want to see if it really makes a difference.

[rohrmann]

After having our cooling unit replaced for the second time this year, I installed an ARPrv protective device, in addition to one of their cooling fans that runs through the control device. I'm thinking of adding a second fan with the first one. The fan is cable tied to the grill, so the intake is lined up with the row of openings and the air blows vertically. Like was said, when it's hot outside, the more air you can get past the coils, the better. I would think the noise from the factory fans would be little concern compared to the cost of replacing one of these cooling units, at least you know the fans are working.

[1retired06]

Noise is not the issue. When the fans are running constantly, temps are rising, then heat buildup occurs because the fans are not sufficiently pushing the heat out. When those oem fans are off, but temps are stable and within parameter then I know the fan I installed is doing a much better job of pushing the heat out. If I don't have to listen to those oem fans as much, that is extra good news.

[Mudchief]

I have been using the little 4 inch fan from Walmart for about 3 years and it really make a difference.

[rickbecker]

Our rig is a 2013 3150RL - the 2 door Norcold Model N811 is installed at an angle, not in a slide but does have top and bottom vents in removable panels on the outside. I listened to the ARPrv protective device presentation at the spring Good Sam Rally in Phoenix earlier this year and it made enough sense to me to have the device installed. The ARP unit has fan controls as well as over temp protection. Helping / watching with the ARP install I also discovered a couple of things about the Montana that might save others problems if you know to check, particularly those with the same angled refer install regardless of floor plan.

As the refer unit is angled, one side is away from both top and bottom vents. To get proper air flow, the design incorporates a flat, wood baffle that hugs up against the back of the refer top to bottom with gaps at both ends allowing / channeling air flow. They also added a 4 inch muffin fan at the top of the coils to draw air in from the bottom and exhaust out the top. Not a bad design if it were not for the cheap ass staples that Keystone loves to use. Surprise! Bounce it down the road, staples pull loose, baffle drops down blocking bottom vent while simultaneously blocking the fan. Certainly explains some of the refer performance issues. Anyway, a couple of points: check the back of your refer for correct air flow: I did not even know there was a fan in the back that you might want to check for operation. As installed, you can not see it or touch it so unless you just happen to hear it running, how do you know??

My over all fix: installed the ARPrv protective device with additional squirrel cage fan at the bottom towards top; added 3 position switch so that I can power on each fan individually to test for operation; fixed the back baffle with screws such that it has a better chance of staying in place plus it can be removed for when that top fan does fail.

I do feel that the ARPrv protective device is worth the expense to provide what NORCOLD should be doing in the first place, plus the extra fan and temp control can only be a good thing.

[Dam Worker]

Mike do you have a picture of your 4" fan installation? My fridge is one thing that seems to work good on my unit but I do have the fan or fans running a lot. I would not mind having a better setup than what the factory gave me.

Tom Marty

[DarMar]

Yes Mike a pic would be great. As you know we had the same problem, new trailer needed fridge replaced in the first 60 days. We have the extra cooling fan, plus relocated thermo switch for said fans to activate sooner but if we add a bottom fan I know it will make the difference you have described.
Thanks in advance

[tomd]

Mike, I also would like to see a pic.

[1retired06]

quote:Originally posted by tomd

Mike, I also would like to see a pic.

Tom, Tom, and Darwin: I have had no luck posting pictures. If you would each send me an email address, I will send as an email attachment to each of you

[1retired06]

Got your email addresses, photo sent to all. That fan really does help.

[DuneBuggyBuilder]

For those of you asking, here is Mike's picture of his fan setup.