376FL rear rollers

[Akuhn]

Good morning!

We took our 376FL on its first little trip, all went well. I now understand why many folks with long trailers add steel rollers to the frame to protect the water valve underneath. Do you guys have any recommendations on steel rollers that you have used and had success with?

[Montana Man]

I can't recommend steel rollers but I can suggest a different way to prevent the rear from scraping the ground. We also have a ram truck and they sit high which causes the rear of the trailer to be low. We installed trailer axle blocks to raise the rear of the trailer. It not only stopped the dragging but the trailer's weight is better distributed on all its wheels for better towing. This was done after we lowered the hitch in the front as much as practical for clearance.

[Akuhn]

Originally Posted by Montana Man

I can't recommend steel rollers but I can suggest a different way to prevent the rear from scraping the ground. We also have a ram truck and they sit high which causes the rear of the trailer to be low. We installed trailer axle blocks to raise the rear of the trailer. It not only stopped the dragging but the trailer's weight is better distributed on all its wheels for better towing. This was done after we lowered the hitch in the front as much as practical for clearance.

For the trailer blocks, did you have your dealer install them? Or take it to another shop? Which blocks did you use?

[Montana Man]

We got them from trailerblocks.com. They are out of Canada. Even with a favorable exchange rate they are expensive but you do get a quality product. There may be less expensive sources for the same thing elsewhere. I installed them.

[Akuhn]

My biggest concern with the lift, is that I am already sitting around 13'6" I do not want to go much higher, and I would worry if an inch and a half would really keep this trailer from dragging. It is just a hair under 42' long.

[Montana Man]

If you search the forum there is plenty said on the subject. Some make the point that the trailer raises in the rear and the front remains basically the same as it sits on the hitch. The high point is normally the ac unit in the front. My 1 1/2" blocks raised the rear about 2 1/4" which doesn't sound like much but it did make a big difference. I didn't measure the front before and after but should have. I suppose measurements could be made using using a floor jack under the rear simulating blocks.

[rohrmann]

I installed 2" blocks on our rig and it also made a huge difference on how it handles. It sits level now, tows much better, and the height at the front A/C is the same as before, maybe a hair higher. We were at 13'4" before, so I wasn't worried about it. Also got the blocks and new U-bolts from www.trailerblocks.com. The prices on their site are in Canadian dollars, so with the exchange rate, will be less in US dollars. This photo was taken before I cut off the excess length of the U-bolts.

[Akuhn]

With the 2" it eliminated your dragging issue? With both of you suggesting blocks I will have to look at my axle set up to see how easy they are to install. It does not seem overly difficult.

[Akuhn]

Obviously in extreme circumstances the trailer will still drag.

[scottz]

I welded these to the bottom of the receiver hitch. I don't think they have ever touched the ground; just insurance. They have several styles including bolt on.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Skid-Whe...48-979021.html

[VagabondLove]

Originally Posted by Montana Man

I can't recommend steel rollers but I can suggest a different way to prevent the rear from scraping the ground. We also have a ram truck and they sit high which causes the rear of the trailer to be low. We installed trailer axle blocks to raise the rear of the trailer. It not only stopped the dragging but the trailer's weight is better distributed on all its wheels for better towing. This was done after we lowered the hitch in the front as much as practical for clearance.

Just a thought, what about dropping the front end down one setting at the king pin? A 2" drop at the king pin should improve the rear clearance by 1" or so...assuming that the truck rail clearance is OK. That would negate the need to raise the entire back end.

As for the height difference, with the trailer blocks I doubt there would be much of a change, as (at least for my Montana) the highest point is in the front at the top of the A/C unit, not in the rear.

Anyway, my 1 cent...

[be18driver]

Do you insert the blocks on both axles or just the rear most axle ?


Ken

[Maks]

We run will a 3790rd and instead of rollers, I fabricated a pair of skids. They are bolted to the frame.
Didn't go with spacers 'cause I didn't want the unit more susceptible to cross winds more than it already is.
By the way....legal height limit is 13' 6"........if anyone cares.

[Gcambo]

I also have the 367FL and welded the rollers on after a couple of scrapes. I doubt the blocks will help much as the 367FL has a drop down frame and is a lot more prone to scraping than most long 5ers

[Montana Man]

Originally Posted by be18driver

Do you insert the blocks on both axles or just the rear most axle ?


Ken

Blocks go on both axles.

And as previously mentioned, lowering the front of the trailer is best but sometimes isn't enough.

[rohrmann]

Since installing the trailer blocks, we rarely drag the rear of the trailer. The trailer had frame extensions so they could attach the rear bicycle hitch, and we dragged the rear enough that the extensions below where the hitch was bolted on had worn through. I had skids made that I bolted up to the extensions so they would take the wear better. I thought of using wheels, but that would have just made the rear even closer to the ground. The photo is of the skids I installed, but now, with the blocks, I don't notice them ever touching the pavement.

[Hornet28]

I'd say you're lucky it hasn't dragged. IMHO there should be an up curve to the front of the skid so that it can't catch or dig in