Suspension upgrade started

[bncinwv]

From an engineering stand-point (not that it matters), the usual specification is one thread beyond the face of the nut. In highly corrosive environments, this should be extended a couple of threads in the event that rust occurs and the end of the bolt has to be cut off to allow for the nut to be removed. However, there is also supporting evidence that as long as all threads are engaged, then the maximum effective strength is realized. So, in summary, a nut that is flush with the end of the bolt is just as strong as one that extends one or more threads. Some pretty reliable documentation can be found from the Naval Shipbuilding Technical Manual:

A minimum thread protrusion length is given to ensure that
all the threads are engaged. This is required to ensure a full-strength fastener. Equipment component drawings
should specify the type, length, and size of bolt, stud, bolt-stud, etc. to be used to obtain the proper thread protrusion.
If not specified on the drawings, threaded fasteners of commercially stocked lengths should be used.
Threaded fasteners, when installed and tightened, should protrude a distance of at least one thread beyond the top
of the nut or plastic insert. Excessive protrusion should be avoided, particularly when necessary clearances,
accessibility, and safety are important. Thread protrusion is considered excessive if it could cause damage to
machinery or harm to personnel. Where practicable, the number of threads protruding should not exceed five. In
no case should thread protrusion exceed ten threads. In the case of a stud, excessive thread protrusion may indicate
that the stud has not been properly driven in the blind hole. In self-locking nuts where the distance from the
top of the nut to the locking element (plastic insert) is equal to or greater than the chamfer, the bolt or stud end
may be flush with the top of the nut. For existing or reused fasteners where the thread protrusion exceeds 10
threads, verification should be made that the proper length fastener was installed. For existing installations utilizing
standard nuts, acceptable minimum thread protrusion would be where the male thread, below any
unthreaded chamfer or crown, is flush with the top of the nut. Washers should not be added to reduce protrusion
except as specifically required by equipment component drawings or technical manuals.

So in essence, you both are correct. But it does look like the nut in the closest view, needs a couple more turns. The above is not offered as free engineering advice, however as with anything, it is a personal choice and it does not not bother me a bit whether it is considered. The only way to know for sure if it is okay is to let Momma take a look. If she is happy, then everyone should be happy!!! Okay, fire away with flaming darts, arrows, and general dissension. Just trying to be of help!!! Hee Hee!, Sorry Ozz, couldn't resist adding some fun into the discussion.
Bingo

[Ozz]

I am concerned that you have this much time on your hands. Maybe I should have Sue contact the Missus and see if some of that extra time could be used in some 'Honey-do' stuff around the Casa...
When I took the U-bolts off, I had to wire brush the protruding threads, if they would have been flush, I could have had that precious time to have a beer before dinner..
I added to my post above stating that I was able to get a full nut today when a did the second 4k spring, so all is well in Ozzland...
I might add that one Montana length for every 10 MPH should keep all safe when following the Ozzmobile...

[bncinwv]

Actually, just got back from dinner out, DW is taking her nightly beauty nap on the couch, and dear old Dad was bored, and could not resist the opportunity to introduce some overly dry mumbo-jumbo into a thread which has been fascinating me from the beginning. In regards to the "honey-do" list, time will be a precious commodity after the weekend. Making a trip to Statesville, NC to pick up all of the goodies for this years dock expansion project!! And still have not completed the final Autoformer install on the new rig, phewww. Not to fret though, I fully respect of your abilities, judgement, know-how and follow through. (I think you know that anyway, Prez!!)
Bingo

[pineranch]

Ozz,
I've worked with lots of degreed engineer's during my career. What we see is one that has finally realized THEY will never let them DRIVE THE TRAIN. THEY being DW.
Mike

[bncinwv]

Secret to a good marriage Mike, DW is ALWAYS RIGHT!!!
Bingo

[skypilot]

Ozz: I had to have new U-Bolts installed last year - an alignment issue that was resolved. In any case I was 'warned' to check the torque this spring. So, the question is, what torque are you using, if anything set. By the way, reason I ask is that seem to recall a thread on here about the torque but can't find it now. Thanks.

[pineranch]

Here you go.
http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/1080235/f/...stems_3-11.pdf
Mike

[dieselguy]

Or to just flood the market ... an excerpt from the Lippert Suspension PDF file.

U-bolts are used to clamp the axle tube and leaf springs together. Torque on the u-bolt nut should be checked every 6 months or 6,000 miles. The proper torque for 3500-8000 lb capacity axles is 65 ft-lbs (u-bolt diameter of ½” and 9/16”). The torque for smaller 2000 lb axles using a 3/8” u-bolt should be set at 35 ft-lbs. The torque should be checked with the coach weight sitting on the tires. Use 9/16” socket size for 3/8” u-bolts, ¾” socket for ½” u-bolts, and 7/8” socket for 9/16” u-bolts.
Hanger and shackle bolts should be checked for the proper torque and for wear. These bolts not only clamp the joint but act as pivots for the suspension and are susceptible to wear. The proper torque setting for these nuts is 35 ft-lbs. Socket size for nut is 11/16”. Socket size to hold the bolt head is 13/16”.
Suspension fasteners are extremely important but commonly neglected. Checking and inspecting are sure ways of maximizing the life of the components and insuring the highest level of safety.

[Ozz]

I have to come back to that, as I haven't put the new wheels and tires on yet, waiting for new center hub covers. I just have one tire on each side, and it's blocked up. They want you to have weight on the suspension.

[kingdaddy]

Maybe you addressed this elsewhere and I missed it, but what led you to change out your springs to the heavier units?
Did you order them from Keystone? Looks like it might change the "ride height" of your trailer just a bit...will that present any concerns?
Enquiring minds want to know...

[Ozz]

It started innocently enough, like most things.
I have a 2006-07 unit, with 6K axles, I contacted the Axel maker and asked what upgrades me to the 7K rating. The answer surprised me, they said springs, and the brakes had a different compound and slightly larger magnet. He also added that most folks would never tell any difference, the different brake pad compound is necessary to comply with some government requirement. The hubs are the same, the axle tube is the same, however there is a heavier Axel tube out there, but my 6K tube is rated for 7K#.
I noted that many MOC members who weighed their units found from 500# to 1,000# more weight on the drivers side than the passenger side, also many Montana's sat lower, (as does mine) on the drivers side of the rig.
So, I decided to put the 4K springs on the drivers side and 3500# springs on the passenger side.
I think it will be fine and ride fairly level, we shall see...

[scductman]

Ozz I had mine weighed in goshen in 09 and the drivers side 2 wheels were 2850# each and the other side was aprox 2800# each. I would not have thought they were that close! On another note the front wheels on my truck were the same thing loaded and unloaded 2000# each both times. Just don't seem rite but I have the paper work he gave me.
Bobby

[kingdaddy]

Seems to me that how your trailer weight is distributed from side to side could vary quite a bit just based on the model you own.
My H.C. has 5200 lb axles I believe (6 lug hubs) due to the lighter weight so I'm wondering what spring I have? Hope to get some weights this week. Really like to get front & rear axle weights seperatly as well as side to side.
Thanks for info Ozz...great pics BTW on the upgrade!

[indy roadrunner]

Ozz in the trucking industry, if we had options we always loaded the heavier freight on the "high side" (driver side) of the trailer - for two reasons. #1 help level "high side" with the curvature of the road. (Most roads are higher in the center that passenger (curb) side for drainage. #2 reason was that drivers tend to turn faster when turning left that when turning right. Weight distribution factor comes into play in this scenerio. So it might not be such a bad idea to be just a littler heavier on driver side.