Broken studs on Tow Vehicle $145.85 - Montana Owners Club

Bill-N-Donna · 02-02-2009, 09:32 AM

I recently had a problem with the front wheel on my TV. While watching it closely for the last few days it had gotten worse over the weekend. I took it to the dealer today and I was thinking I had a bearing going bad. I was seeing grey powder spread from the center of the axle area like something was leaking. Figured a bearing and seal maybe. After they looked at it they told me the only thing they could find was that three studs were broke and my wheel was loose. When I recently had it in there for ball joints they also had to replace three studs at that time. It just seems very odd that the studs would suddenly start breaking or having a problem like this. I have a lot of confidence in this dealership, to me they seem to do very good work. This just seems to be very odd to me. Has anyone else ever had anything similar to this happen to them?

racerjoe · 02-02-2009, 09:43 AM

did they re-torque the wheels. a lot of times they will have you return after so many miles to recheck lugnut torque. aluminium wheels are notorious for coming loose. Thats why Keystone is so adament on wheel torque specs.

Bill-N-Donna · 02-02-2009, 10:07 AM

They haven’t suggested anything about returning for the re-check. They still have it where I had to leave it overnight while the parts come in. I figure it’s mostly related to the wheels and the cold. We have had various temperature changes lately. Temps will change up to 40° in one day and it’s been up and down a lot.

I’m beginning to think we live in an order only society. Nobody seems to carry stock on anything anymore. I’ll probably look up the torque specs on the wheels and start watching them myself.

racerjoe · 02-02-2009, 12:02 PM

check your owners manual,it might have torque specs in there. I have had tire work done at two places,one ford dealer,one not and they both wanted me back for a recheck. It seems even the good shops make mistakes,but you just move on.

firetrucker · 02-02-2009, 01:37 PM

I've had studs break on my Dodge a couple of times because the lug nuts froze and the shop had to break the studs to get the tire off.

There's a pretty much standard routine for tightening the lug nuts that involves the pattern in which they're tightened and how many miles you should drive before checking the torque if the wheels have been taken off.

The amount of torque depends on how much the stud must stretch in order to generate the right amount of force to hold the wheel on. If the nuts are overtorqued, the stud can be stretched to the failure point. If anything but a LIGHT coating of oil is used on the studs (and most manufacturers don't even recommend that), the torque value must be reduced or it's going to be easier to stretch the studs. Not all shops adhere to this concept, though.

If the face of the nut or the rim or the drum is scratched or dirty, you may not even get enough stretch to the stud.

Always follow the tightening pattern and mileage interval for checking torque that's in you operator's manual, and make sure all surfaces are clean. Get a good torque wrench (they're not very expensive) and don't trust the tire shop!

Bob

bncinwv · 02-02-2009, 02:34 PM

I always thought that broken studs on the drive wheels were a result of a very heavy and sudden pressure applied to the accelerator pedal. This results in an unplanned amount of torque which if greater than the friction of the road results in wheel spin, smoking tires, etc. etc. It really sounds to me like you need to slow down a little Bill!!!!!!!!

Of course, I could be wrong since you don't drive a CHEVY!!! Ha Ha! Winter-time threads are sooooo fun.
Bingo
On edit: All in fun, since after re-reading the problem was on the front wheels!!

Bill-N-Donna · 02-02-2009, 03:56 PM

This was all on the same wheel as three studs that were replaced when I last had it in the shop for two ball joints also on the same wheel. It’s just rare to me that studs break. I’ve had aluminum wheels before on a travel trailer and never had a problem.

Delaine and Lindy · 02-03-2009, 03:24 AM

Bill I don't know for sure but it sounds like someone used a impact Air wrench and didn't use it properly. I don't mind removing the Lug nuts with the impact wrench but never ever let them put the Lug Nugs on with air impact wrench. I also make sure they are using a Torq wrench when torqing the wheels.

As for Aluminum Wheel anytime they are removed you should Torq them and after the first 50 miles Torq again. And should be checked as part of your premove checks.

Since the Dealer had just removed your wheels, I would think your Lug Nuts were over torqed and caused three broken studs. GBY....

skypilot · 02-03-2009, 03:31 AM

Don't know if it is the problem or not but back a few years ago had several studs replaced because the 'tech' used an air powered impact tool to tighten the lugnuts; one bolt snapped while installing, another about a week later (I heard a rattle in the hubcap, was the lugnut and part of the bolt). When I took it back for that one I mentioned it to the dealer who replaced all the studs on that wheel assembly -- told me that they had had a wrench set too high!! and I was one of several who had come back. I questioned the other wheel (other side) but he said that the wrench on that side had a 'torque stick' on it so it wouldn't have gone so high. I accepted that but now as I type this I wonder why I did ??? Oh well.

mail2us · 02-03-2009, 05:08 AM

Not to hijack Don's post and we have similar problem with our TV. The vehicle may have warped rotors that I'm led to believe could also be related to a torque issue. The TV has 16k miles. Hopefully it's a warranty issue. Dennis

Pete Hanson · 02-03-2009, 05:41 AM

We all seem to be getting hit with unusual problems with our tow vehicles. You never heard of these things happening prior to the globalization of manufacturing. I recently posted my problems with ball joints, universal joints, and brake rotors, all of which can be directly linked to inferior metals coming from our friends in China. This is the way our big three manufacturers are reducing costs but it is costing them big time in quality. Is it any wonder they are all going under?

Bill-N-Donna · 02-03-2009, 07:48 AM

Wow……. $145.85 to re-place three studs.

3 studs… 14.80 ea
3 nuts… 6.72 ea
Labor… 70.00
Environmental & shop charges… 7.00
Tax… 4.29
Total of… 145.85

Lesson learned:
I think it might be worthwhile to check the torque from time to time.
I asked what the torque setting was they used and they said it was 150lbs. The manual calls for 150-165 lb torque.

On Edit: I also forgot to mention they gave me a free car rental overnight so I wouldn’t have to drive on the wheel with 3 studs missing. I commend them for that.

mail2us · 02-05-2009, 01:22 AM

The cost appears as a Labor cost mostly. The dealer giving you a vehicle is alway a plus for the dealer. In our area they take you home, and pick you backup when the repaired vehicle is ready. I seems at $70 for Labor it was about 1 hour?? Or am I wrong on that? Dennis

Bill-N-Donna · 02-05-2009, 02:48 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by mail2us

The cost appears as a Labor cost mostly. The dealer giving you a vehicle is alway a plus for the dealer. In our area they take you home, and pick you backup when the repaired vehicle is ready. I seems at $70 for Labor it was about 1 hour?? Or am I wrong on that? Dennis

I think it is for one hour! For the most part I guess it isn’t too bad. I think the charge for the environment is a little ridiculous considering it doesn’t seem to be any type of environmental impact with what they did.

Clyde n Deb · 02-05-2009, 03:58 AM

They were kind to you on the labor charge. The hazmat and shop supply charge is about normal. If anything is high, it was the cost on the parts.

That being said, these observations are somewhat dependent on the part of the country you're in, and whether you went to a dealer or an independent repair facility.

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