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Old 02-09-2021, 05:15 AM   #21
RMcNeal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave W View Post
The OP has a HC, which, if like ours, does not have separate tank heaters but just the belly heat from the furnace.


Additionally, and again if like ours, the tanks drain kinda slowly compared to the gush other 5ers and TTs we have owned.


As far as leaving the tanks open 100% of the time, that dreaded poo pyramid in the black tank is a real concern. Others above have made good suggestions. There are numerous You Tube videos as well on holding tank operation: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+Holding+tanks
Sorry, didn't catch that it was a High Country. But the OP did say they have tank heaters in post #8. Is that an option on the HC models?
 
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Old 02-09-2021, 06:00 AM   #22
Dave W
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Originally Posted by RMcNeal View Post
Sorry, didn't catch that it was a High Country. But the OP did say they have tank heaters in post #8. Is that an option on the HC models?

What he may be looking at is the advertising brochure though Keystone may have added these as an option. Ours are shown as having heat, not heaters in the brochure. That heat is only from the furnace ducting. A HC is not a 4 season, 5er, again and unless Keystone has changed the build,
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Old 02-09-2021, 07:59 AM   #23
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Our 2020 HC has tank heaters and it is rated as 4 season.
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Old 02-14-2021, 01:18 PM   #24
VagabondLove
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Originally Posted by Rlates View Post
Thx, are there videos on how to re-zero the leveling system?
I do not know about videos, but here is my experience with the Level Up...

I auto level, and then manually adjust until doors do not swing open, water pools on the kitchen floor without moving off in one direction etc. until it is as level as I want.

Then, on my Level-Up system, I do a zero-point calibration:
Turn off the touch pad
Press the FRONT button TEN TIMES
Press the REAR button TEN TIMES
Then, the touch pad will beep and display ZERO POINT CALIBRATION ENTER to set. Press the ENTER button to set.

I have had to do this about three times since my 2013 3625RE was purchased.
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Old 02-14-2021, 01:22 PM   #25
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I have a different problem. I have a leaky valve on one of my gray tanks. I put a Valtera valve on the outlet connection to stop the surprises when I take off the cap. When it gets below freezing the Valtera freezes shut. After having to use a hair dryer to unfreeze it, I now keep the Valtera open if the temp is going to drop below 32. If I was more energetic, I’d just fix the leaky gray tank valve.
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Old 02-14-2021, 01:36 PM   #26
glendodom
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Tanks Not Emptying

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rlates View Post
All, just parked at the KOA in Nashville. Did the Auto level and it was a success! However, when we got inside we noticed little things like water in the shower pooling to the Non drain side, the bathroom door swinging to the closed position rather quickly. I put a level all over and noticed the front was a little to low. I raised it up a few bumps to level it and that seemed to help.

However, the holding tank valves are open (it’s going to be below freezing all this week and don’t want water in the holding tanks. But nothing drains out when open?

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Randy
I have a 2018 3721RL and initially thought I had a problem with tanks not emptying on our first trip out. Come to finally understand that Montana advises on that model you need to raise the nose about 3” to fully empty tanks. Why would they place tanks in that don’t empty when you are level but they did. I coincidentally discovered viewing an on line factory walkthrough video. RV shop wasn’t aware. Now I raise the nose and no issue with good drain.
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Old 02-14-2021, 01:47 PM   #27
Billyj571
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Originally Posted by RMcNeal View Post
If you are getting into the 40's to 50's in the daytime and only down to freezing or just below freezing at night, you shouldn't need to worry about your tanks. Turn on the tank heaters and you should be fine.
I spent a month in temps in the 20's with tank heaters on and no propane heat. I kept the rig inside around 60 and the belly and basement never got below 40. I have wireless remote thermometers in the belly and basement and one outside. The only time I turned on the furnace was when we got to 7 degrees one night.
You have wireless sensors can you send a link where you got them plz Thxs Bill
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Old 02-14-2021, 01:57 PM   #28
stevekbk
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belly heat

The heated basement is only good when furnace is heating.
I put a heat tape in the water closet.
works great at 10 deg.
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Old 02-14-2021, 03:31 PM   #29
Daryles
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Originally Posted by Billyj571 View Post
You have wireless sensors can you send a link where you got them plz Thxs Bill

I got this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JGRBZBB...PH5HBG69YRAZ07

Temperature last night. Will be colder tonight
Ours is winterized. We just keep a small ceramic heater running to keep the chill out. LOL �� ��
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Old 02-14-2021, 04:14 PM   #30
boisesmith
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While we are talking about tank heaters: What is the advise for using them? i.e. are they on a thermostat or simply on and off by the switches? Should there be water in the tanks or is burning something up not a concern? Are they 12 volt or 120? and... any easy way of knowing which switch controls which tank?
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Old 02-14-2021, 05:09 PM   #31
azwiz
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Originally Posted by Daryles View Post
Sensors are worthless.
Depending on your model and floor plan, some drain better with the front above level. If your tanks are mounted longitudinally this works for the black tank and the bathroom grey tank. NOT for the gally tank. It drains in the opposite direction.
If your tanks are mounted sideways, then....
Experiment...
This is mentioned in the Montana factory tour video on YouTube
https://youtu.be/cV0OZv0bCgc

Tanks at 3:55 and 9 minutes
Bottom insulation 7:20 and 8:35 and 12:38 minutes.
Water line routing/insulation 12:38 minutes.
Racetrack AC ducts 32:42min.

When I want to do a good flush before leaving a site I pull in the slides, retract the rear jacks and raise the front jacks as high as they will go. Then I us the black tank flush system. Very effective.
I also do this before winterizing and drain it really good.
Mine dumps the same, to dump the black and front gray I have to raise the front as high as possible. Don't ask me why, I have even pulled the coroplast down and the tanks are level with the frame. They should dump when trailer is level. I have a 2019 3121rl.
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Old 02-14-2021, 06:58 PM   #32
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I always had trouble flushing the black (shouldn't it be called a brown tank?) until I ran across the video mentioned above. Last year I pulled down the coroplast to do the lube on the valves. Having the coroplast down, I was able to see exactly how the thing was plumbed.

Both the black and bathroom grey exited at the back of the tank. They then joined together at a T, and then traveled on to the exit. A foot or so from the exit, the line from kitchen tank joins the main line. But not from the top of the line, from the side.

I suspect the OP has faulty sensors as most of us do. I don't even look at mine anymore.

So this is what I do.

While at a site, I'll leave both grey tanks open unless it's cold, then they're closed. If the greys are closed, then I dump about every 3 to 4 days. If they're open, I'll close them a couple of days before we leave.

I know from experience that I need to dump the black every 6 or 7 days. A day or so before that dump I'll make sure the greys are closed and then dump those tanks after the black.

And this is why.

Being level, because of the design, the black tank will push 'stuff' into the exit line of the bathroom grey tank. The water will drain out but solids can stay in that line. Also the black water will push 'stuff' into the exit line for the kitchen.

I will run the tank flush but I don't worry about a squeaky clean black tank while sitting in one spot.

When we get ready to leave the last thing I do is dump the tanks. As mentioned above, I also raise the front beforehand. We have a Gooseneck hitch so I need to raise it pretty high to clear the tailgate and ball. That's when I dump and get a good rinse. Black, then bathroom grey.

Because of the design, with the nose so high the kitchen won't drain completely. After the black and bath grey are done, I hitch to the truck, then drain the kitchen.

I've also added a shutoff valve at the end of the line like mentioned above because of the slow draining. It's helped ALOT.

I have to re-home our Level-Up a couple of times a year. I do exactly as described above. Only difference is I only need to punch the buttons 5 times instead of 10.

One final thought. Do you have a heated hose?
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Old 02-14-2021, 07:32 PM   #33
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I have this item I use when my tank is showing that there is something still in the black tank when I know there isn't.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valterra-...hoCYLIQAvD_BwE
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Old 02-14-2021, 08:21 PM   #34
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You may have two separate grey tank release valves. If so, you will have two separate sensor indicators on the panel inside. Also, on our Montana the main two valves were labeled backwards. The one labeled 'grey' is actually the black valve and vice versa... don't ask me how I found this out. I've adjusted, but it was most likely finished on a Friday.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-14-2021, 09:35 PM   #35
craigb
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Levelers need calibrating?

Make sure the rig is really "level" when your levelers are done. Mine needed to be calibrating a couple of times over time.
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Old 02-15-2021, 06:03 AM   #36
RMcNeal
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Sorry for the delay... The wireless thermometers I have are the same as shown above. I also found them on Amazon for about $32. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 02-15-2021, 09:35 AM   #37
DanC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rlates View Post
All, just parked at the KOA in Nashville. Did the Auto level and it was a success! However, when we got inside we noticed little things like water in the shower pooling to the Non drain side, the bathroom door swinging to the closed position rather quickly. I put a level all over and noticed the front was a little to low. I raised it up a few bumps to level it and that seemed to help.

However, the holding tank valves are open (it’s going to be below freezing all this week and don’t want water in the holding tanks. But nothing drains out when open?

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Randy

My Montana 2020 3760FL has a bladex valve installed just under the skirting on the sewer line, about 18 inches up from the opening. When I first went to drain my tanks nothing flowed. After about 20 mins of investigation with a fellow Rv'r we found the bladex valve, opened it up and everything drained properly. Also like mentioned before make sure you don't leave your black open.......
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Old 02-15-2021, 11:29 AM   #38
Mikelff
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Originally Posted by Dave W View Post
What he may be looking at is the advertising brochure though Keystone may have added these as an option. Ours are shown as having heat, not heaters in the brochure. That heat is only from the furnace ducting. A HC is not a 4 season, 5er, again and unless Keystone has changed the build,
I have a 2018 41’ High Country with a 4 season package. Have tank heaters that really work well. I have seen lots of High Country 5ers with tank heaters, with and without the 4 season package so I don't know if they are an option or what. I know they come with the 4 season package.
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Old 02-15-2021, 12:08 PM   #39
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A little bit of water in your tank is no going to hurt then even if it freezes. To test this put an inch or so water in a plastic container and freeze it and see what happens. Nothing except the water freezes.
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