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Old 09-12-2007, 07:35 AM   #1
madeforeachother
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Winterizing guide

When we purchased our 2007 3400rl we received a packet with all the cut sheets for standard and optional equipment but nothing from Keystone as to the steps to correctly winterize our trailer. Is there a manual with all the nessessary steps to take or is it just a common knowledge thing? I just want to be sure it is done correctly so I do not have any problems in the spring. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Old 09-12-2007, 08:07 AM   #2
Mrs. CountryGuy
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Try here:

http://www.montanaowners.com/

look for link to RV Related Links

http://www.montanaowners.com/RVRelatedLinks.html

down aways on the page find link for Winterizing The RV

http://www.montanaowners.com/RVRelatedLinks.html

And, the others will come along and provide more personal answers

Good luck

ON EDIT: Please note that the final page I have referenced here has a charge of $7.00. I was not aware of this when I posted here. I am sorry, and withdraw my personal reference to said page.

DO NOT WITHDRAW MY REFERENCE TO OUR HOME PAGE AND ALL THE OTHER GREAT LINKS.
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Old 09-12-2007, 12:51 PM   #3
Glenn and Lorraine
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I have found the easiest way to winterize my Monty is to point it south and don't stop until the temp stays above freezing.

sorry 'bout dat. I just couldn't resist.
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Old 09-12-2007, 03:52 PM   #4
bncinwv
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If you have a washer/dryer, there are winterizing instructions that are separate from the rest of the unit. Our stackables have the winterizing instructions in the owner's manual.
Bingo
__________________

Bingo and Cathy - Our adventures begin in the hills of WV. We are blessed by our 2014 3850FL Big Sky (previous 2011 3750FL and 2007 3400RL) that we pull with a 2007 Chevy Silverado Classic DRW CC dually.
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Old 09-13-2007, 06:52 AM   #5
01RAMer
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Mrs. CountryGuy

Try here:

http://www.montanaowners.com/RVRelatedLinks.html
down aways on the page find link for Winterizing The RV

Good luck
I don't understand why one needs to pay $7.00 for a manual. You would think this would be explaned in the manual, of course it isn't.

Madeforeachother, I found instructions on the inside of the water panel compartment door. One might start by looking in places like that.
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Old 09-13-2007, 07:01 AM   #6
Mrs. CountryGuy
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Actually, I did not look at that web page closely, just that it is on our wonderful page of links, thanks to Glenn. I did not see that $7.00 thing, but you are right, there should be enough info from MOCers and elsewhere that we don't need to be paying $7.00 for it.

OK, guys, jump in here and give madeforeachother some hints, eh???
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Old 09-13-2007, 07:39 AM   #7
bncinwv
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Starting point:
http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...ad.php?t=18502
Second point:
Ask detailed questions after reading inside of convenience panel door. If yours does not have the procedure let me know and I will take a picture and post it, unless someone can do it sooner (ours is in mini-storage so it may take a few days).
Third point:
Remember to pour enough down all sinks and shower/tub to fill traps with antifreeze and force water out. Pour a little in toilet also after draining it.
Fourth point: Need to add some to black tank flush line as well as to remember the outside shower hookup.
Fifth point: Don't forget washer and/or dishwasher if so equipped.
Sixth point: Wait for others to chime in on what I missed!!!
Bingo
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Bingo and Cathy - Our adventures begin in the hills of WV. We are blessed by our 2014 3850FL Big Sky (previous 2011 3750FL and 2007 3400RL) that we pull with a 2007 Chevy Silverado Classic DRW CC dually.
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Old 09-13-2007, 10:58 AM   #8
VanMan
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http://koa.com/familyzone/camping101...enance_506.htm
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Old 09-13-2007, 11:26 AM   #9
dandt
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I take the same additude as Glenn and Lorraine head south young man head south!!!!!Everyone here stores thier rigs at the fairgrounds so they don't have to worry about snow wieght...We just head south until we know we are safe out of freeze range and stay until our nieghbor sends us pictures of a clear driveway
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Old 09-13-2007, 06:38 PM   #10
MAMalody
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1 Drain and flush fresh water tank
2 Drain and flush gray water holding tank
3 Drain and flush black water holding tank
4 Drain and flush hot water tank

If you have low-point drain lines under your RV:
5 Open the hot and cold faucets in your RV
6 Uncap the low-point drain lines; let water drain completely
7 Recap Drain Lines
8 Close the hot and cold faucets

Blow out the water lines:
(Note: If you have low-point drain lines, this may not be necessary)
9 Screw on compressed air adapter onto main fresh water inlet
10 Apply compressed air, keeping pressure to less than 20 psi
11 Open each faucet, one at a time, to force water out of lines
12 Make sure to open each faucet in the RV, including the shower and toilet
13 Open hot water drain plug and blow out the water in this tank
14 Remove compressed air and compressed air adapter
15 Replace drain plug in hot water heater and close all faucets

Put Antifreeze in the water lines:
Use RV Non-Toxic Antifreeze ONLY
Approximately 2 or 3 gallons should be plenty
16 Make sure water pump is off and all faucets are closed
17 Close the Water Bypass Valve to your hot water tank

NOTE: If you don't have a Water Bypass Valve for your hot water tank, seriously consider having one installed. Otherwise, in addition to the water lines you will end up filling the hot water tank with antifreeze. It's not harmful, but you'll use an additional six gallons of antifreeze.
Disconnect the water line where it joins the fresh water tank
- or -
18 If your RV is so equipped, shut off the valve coming from the fresh water tank and open the valve for the winterizing inlet line
19 Place the water inlet line (either from the main system or the winterizing line) into the jug or other source container with the RV antifreeze.
20 Switch on the water pump; it will start to suck up the antifreeze into the lines
21 Open each valve of each faucet slowly, one at a time, until the red antifreeze starts coming out. Once flowing, shut off the faucet valve.

Note: If for some reason you can't drain the water lines using the low-point drain lines and you can't blow out the lines with compressed air, you will have to wait until the antifreeze pushes out the fresh water in the lines before closing the valve. A rule of thumb; don't shut off the valve until the antifreeze starts coming out.

22 Remember to also do this for the toilet and the shower.
23 Shut off the water pump
24 Remove the inlet line from the antifreeze, then either:
25 Re-attach the water line to the fresh water tank
- or -
Close the winterizing inlet valve and reopen the fresh water valve, if your RV is so equipped.

26 Pour a small amount of antifreeze down each drain to ensure that the sink traps have antifreeze in them.
27 Pour a small amount of antifreeze in the toilet bowl also. Note: Don't flush it into the holding tank.

You Are Done !

I hope this helps.
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Old 09-14-2007, 04:37 AM   #11
madeforeachother
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Wow! Thanks a bunch people. With all the responses I got back I'm sure I should be able to handle this. We acually were always in warmer weather these past five years during winter and never had to worry about winter freeze ups but we have moved to the Chicago suburbs to be with the kids and help them out. We got a house to live in and need to button up the 5er for the winter and the nice thing is it's on our property and we can visit any time we want. Thanks to all for the input.
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Old 09-14-2007, 07:59 AM   #12
Glenn and Lorraine
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Winterizing your RV is a relatively easy process that most RV'ers can do themselves! It only takes a few minutes if you have all the proper items such as: a water heater by-pass kit installed on your water heater, a water-pump winterizing kit and it's a good idea to have a city water inlet blow-out plug! (You can buy these things at your local RV dealer's parts department.)

Step 1.

Empty and flush out your holding tanks (if you haven't already done this upon completion of your last trip) at your nearest dump station!

Step 2.

Drain your fresh water tank and your water heater (leave the drain plug out of your water heater until spring). Your water heater will drain a little faster if you open a couple of hot water taps in your unit! You shouldn't open the safety valve on your water heater to help drain it because it might not seat properly again and can be an unnecessary expense when you need to replace it in the spring!!!

Step 3.

By-pass your water heater (you don't need to run any antifreeze into this) either by purchasing (if not already installed) a water heater by-pass kit usually about $20.00 to $30.00 or by removing the two water lines on the back (inside your unit) of the water heater and joining them together with a temporary by-pass (usually about $10.00 - $15.00)

Step 4.

It's recommended that you "blow" your water lines out with air pressure (don't exceed more than 40-50 p.s.i) you would do this with a blow-out plug (usually about $3.00 to $5.00). If you don't have an air compressor then you can use your neighborhood service stations air compressor used for filling tires. It's nice to have someone help you here, one of you can hold the air hose on the blow-out plug which you have screwed onto your city water entry (the same place your water hose connects when you have hook-ups at a camp site) and the other to open your faucets, hot and cold one at a time until there's nothing coming out! (Don't forget your toilet!!)

STEP 5

You are now ready to put some RV (non toxic) antifreeze through your RV plumbing system!! Some books or people will tell you to put 6 or 7 gallons of antifreeze into your fresh water tank, I strongly recommend that you do not do this as it is a complete waste of money! 7 gallons of antifreeze would cost you about $30.00 to $40.00, you should only need 2 gallons (maybe 3 for some of the larger units) and most of the time you will have approximately 1/2 of one left over! It is best to disconnect the water line from your fresh water tank at the pump side and use a separate suction line which some rv parts departments have already made up for about $4.00-$6.00, or a pump winterizing kit consisting of a brass three way valve and suction line which stays attached to your pump permanently, about $18.00-$25.00. Stick the suction hose into the jug of antifreeze making sure it goes all the way to the bottom of the jug, with all your taps turned completely off and your water heater by-passed, turn on your water pump and open a water tap (hot or cold) (the farthest one from the pump) And wait until you see the antifreeze come out at a steady flow, turn off that tap then do the next tap and so on until you have done them all, don't forget to flush your toilet until it comes out steady there as well! If your unit has an outside shower don't forget it as well! (Sometime during the process you probably had to switch jugs when the first one ran empty) next poor some antifreeze (you should have some left) down each sink drain and your tub or shower drain (about 1/2 a cup), to ensure your p-traps don't freeze up! Turn your pump switch off and clean up any antifreeze over spray left in your sinks and tub or shower, open all your taps and toilet valve by sticking something in the hole (make sure it doesn't fall into your tank) I find a toilet cleaning brush is the best thing to use! That's it you're done! That wasn't so bad was it? Now remove your batteries for winter storage!
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Old 09-14-2007, 10:02 AM   #13
kdeiss
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Glenn and Lorraine

Winterizing your RV is a relatively easy process that most RV'ers can do themselves! It only takes a few minutes if you have all the proper items such as: a water heater by-pass kit installed on your water heater, a water-pump winterizing kit and it's a good idea to have a city water inlet blow-out plug! (You can buy these things at your local RV dealer's parts department.)

Step 1.

Empty and flush out your holding tanks (if you haven't already done this upon completion of your last trip) at your nearest dump station!

Step 2.

Drain your fresh water tank and your water heater (leave the drain plug out of your water heater until spring). Your water heater will drain a little faster if you open a couple of hot water taps in your unit! You shouldn't open the safety valve on your water heater to help drain it because it might not seat properly again and can be an unnecessary expense when you need to replace it in the spring!!!

Step 3.

By-pass your water heater (you don't need to run any antifreeze into this) either by purchasing (if not already installed) a water heater by-pass kit usually about $20.00 to $30.00 or by removing the two water lines on the back (inside your unit) of the water heater and joining them together with a temporary by-pass (usually about $10.00 - $15.00)

Step 4.

It's recommended that you "blow" your water lines out with air pressure (don't exceed more than 40-50 p.s.i) you would do this with a blow-out plug (usually about $3.00 to $5.00). If you don't have an air compressor then you can use your neighborhood service stations air compressor used for filling tires. It's nice to have someone help you here, one of you can hold the air hose on the blow-out plug which you have screwed onto your city water entry (the same place your water hose connects when you have hook-ups at a camp site) and the other to open your faucets, hot and cold one at a time until there's nothing coming out! (Don't forget your toilet!!)

STEP 5

You are now ready to put some RV (non toxic) antifreeze through your RV plumbing system!! Some books or people will tell you to put 6 or 7 gallons of antifreeze into your fresh water tank, I strongly recommend that you do not do this as it is a complete waste of money! 7 gallons of antifreeze would cost you about $30.00 to $40.00, you should only need 2 gallons (maybe 3 for some of the larger units) and most of the time you will have approximately 1/2 of one left over! It is best to disconnect the water line from your fresh water tank at the pump side and use a separate suction line which some rv parts departments have already made up for about $4.00-$6.00, or a pump winterizing kit consisting of a brass three way valve and suction line which stays attached to your pump permanently, about $18.00-$25.00. Stick the suction hose into the jug of antifreeze making sure it goes all the way to the bottom of the jug, with all your taps turned completely off and your water heater by-passed, turn on your water pump and open a water tap (hot or cold) (the farthest one from the pump) And wait until you see the antifreeze come out at a steady flow, turn off that tap then do the next tap and so on until you have done them all, don't forget to flush your toilet until it comes out steady there as well! If your unit has an outside shower don't forget it as well! (Sometime during the process you probably had to switch jugs when the first one ran empty) next poor some antifreeze (you should have some left) down each sink drain and your tub or shower drain (about 1/2 a cup), to ensure your p-traps don't freeze up! Turn your pump switch off and clean up any antifreeze over spray left in your sinks and tub or shower, open all your taps and toilet valve by sticking something in the hole (make sure it doesn't fall into your tank) I find a toilet cleaning brush is the best thing to use! That's it you're done! That wasn't so bad was it? Now remove your batteries for winter storage!
Do not forget out side shower if you have one!
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Old 09-14-2007, 10:22 AM   #14
Mrs. CountryGuy
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YIKES:::

"Turn your pump switch off and clean up any antifreeze over spray left in your sinks and tub or shower, open all your taps and toilet valve by sticking something in the hole (make sure it doesn't fall into your tank) I find a toilet cleaning brush is the best thing to use!"

OKKK, gotta say, we are ok with the clean up of over spray, but that toilet valve sticking something in the hole, NOPE, that no a worka for us.

We put antifreeze in the toilet, keeping valve shut. This keeps odors from coming back up.

We do NOT open the faucets either, as we want the pink to stay in the lines, not drip out.

Something extra I do, is to put a plastic throw away cup under each faucet, to catch any of those drips. I do this, cause many moons ago, I just closed the faucet, cleaned up the over spray, etc, and in the spring I found the pink had leaked out of that faucet, and it did nasty things to the cheap gray plumbers putty. Ick what a mess to clean up. Would rather toss the cup in the spring.

We don't blow air through the system either, although some do, we don't, probably a personal choice item??

And just think, some of us will get to do this annual painful routine SOON!
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Old 09-14-2007, 10:33 AM   #15
bncinwv
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We do as Carol says, antifreeze in the toilet (helps the seals stay moist also), leave faucets closed, and have never blown out the lines. I would believe that whatever little bit of water was left would be protected by mixing with the antifreeze. I am looking forward to doing this with the Convenience panel setup, because on our previous TT, I had to get down on hands and knees to unhook inlet to water pump and had a section of hose that I connected to it for the jugs. I will definitely miss that procedure......NOT!!
Bingo
__________________

Bingo and Cathy - Our adventures begin in the hills of WV. We are blessed by our 2014 3850FL Big Sky (previous 2011 3750FL and 2007 3400RL) that we pull with a 2007 Chevy Silverado Classic DRW CC dually.
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Old 09-14-2007, 11:16 AM   #16
kdeiss
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We had Pink stuff on the sink's or shower never a problem cleaning in the spring
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Old 09-18-2007, 04:49 AM   #17
01RAMer
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M.O.C. #7316
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by MAMalody

1 Drain and flush fresh water tank
2 Drain and flush gray water holding tank
3 Drain and flush black water holding tank
4 Drain and flush hot water tank

If you have low-point drain lines under your RV:
5 Open the hot and cold faucets in your RV
6 Uncap the low-point drain lines; let water drain completely
7 Recap Drain Lines
8 Close the hot and cold faucets

Blow out the water lines:
(Note: If you have low-point drain lines, this may not be necessary)
9 Screw on compressed air adapter onto main fresh water inlet
10 Apply compressed air, keeping pressure to less than 20 psi
11 Open each faucet, one at a time, to force water out of lines
12 Make sure to open each faucet in the RV, including the shower and toilet
13 Open hot water drain plug and blow out the water in this tank
14 Remove compressed air and compressed air adapter
15 Replace drain plug in hot water heater and close all faucets

Put Antifreeze in the water lines:
Use RV Non-Toxic Antifreeze ONLY
Approximately 2 or 3 gallons should be plenty
16 Make sure water pump is off and all faucets are closed
17 Close the Water Bypass Valve to your hot water tank

NOTE: If you don't have a Water Bypass Valve for your hot water tank, seriously consider having one installed. Otherwise, in addition to the water lines you will end up filling the hot water tank with antifreeze. It's not harmful, but you'll use an additional six gallons of antifreeze.
Disconnect the water line where it joins the fresh water tank
- or -
18 If your RV is so equipped, shut off the valve coming from the fresh water tank and open the valve for the winterizing inlet line
19 Place the water inlet line (either from the main system or the winterizing line) into the jug or other source container with the RV antifreeze.
20 Switch on the water pump; it will start to suck up the antifreeze into the lines
21 Open each valve of each faucet slowly, one at a time, until the red antifreeze starts coming out. Once flowing, shut off the faucet valve.

Note: If for some reason you can't drain the water lines using the low-point drain lines and you can't blow out the lines with compressed air, you will have to wait until the antifreeze pushes out the fresh water in the lines before closing the valve. A rule of thumb; don't shut off the valve until the antifreeze starts coming out.

22 Remember to also do this for the toilet and the shower.
23 Shut off the water pump
24 Remove the inlet line from the antifreeze, then either:
25 Re-attach the water line to the fresh water tank
- or -
Close the winterizing inlet valve and reopen the fresh water valve, if your RV is so equipped.

26 Pour a small amount of antifreeze down each drain to ensure that the sink traps have antifreeze in them.
27 Pour a small amount of antifreeze in the toilet bowl also. Note: Don't flush it into the holding tank.

You Are Done !

I hope this helps.
Good stuff, thanks!!! Don't forget the Washer faucet. We don't have a washer, but the faucet for it is there in the closet inside the front door. I forgot it last year, out of sight - out of mind. Luckly I didn't end up paying for that mistake.
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