Things You do to make it Safe - Montana Owners Club

Illini Trekker · 12-22-2006, 03:43 AM

After Rich's fire to his camper maybe we can as a group find ways to make our travels safer. In the past I remember a few thing members have done to make there Montana's a little safer. Some have installed hand railing up to the bedroom, extra support on the Landry hatch. At a CG this summer the camper next to me was having a dead bolt installed, I never thought you could do such a thing. So with Rich's fire and others with near misses maybe will be able to head off some of the hazards.

DHenry · 12-22-2006, 04:16 AM

I am going to install a fire extinguisher in the bedroom area.

Ozzie · 12-22-2006, 04:57 AM

I think having an emergency cutoff is of paramount importance.

Ozz · 12-22-2006, 05:45 AM

I moved the Corona close to the exit door.....

8.1al · 12-22-2006, 06:50 AM

Jim it's good to hear you have your priorities in order.

Doug has a good idea with the extinguisher in the bedroom, it could mean the difference between getting out and not. I'm going to get one a little larger that what came with the unit and mount it over the washer

jrgwdenner · 12-22-2006, 07:06 AM

I like the idea of a fire extinquisher in the bedroom, too. Glen bought a cutoff valve for the battery and will be installing it before we leave. We also added very reflective tape that shows up really well when the slides are open. We added it to the bottom edges of the outside slidewalls so it shows up from the front and rear. We feel safer now if we're parking in Wally World's parking lot.

Illini Trekker · 12-22-2006, 07:06 AM

Ozz in the state of mind you'll be in, you'll trip and break it?

We should make additions to you're set-up and break-down list as to an emergency shut list, just to be able to review it?

I have the shut off switch mounted over the batteries, thinking about that it will be moved a little farther in cause of fire at the batteries.

Montana Sky · 12-22-2006, 07:19 AM

I added a fire proof safe to the front closet. I keep the important paperwork for the coach and some other emergency cash in there. Also double checked the insurance policy to make sure I had the proper coverage, just in case....

Ozz · 12-22-2006, 07:56 AM

The very first thing I did was throw the original smoke detector in the trash and installed a good detector (First alert) with a built in spot light. It shines on the steps when activated. Wasn't cheap, but what is your life worth?

bsmeaton · 12-22-2006, 08:02 AM

Ozz,

You need to keep an emergency stash of Corona's down by the river in case you have to evacuate! That way your hands will be free to grab other stuff like Sue, maybe those T-bones in the fridge, on your way out.

For those wishing to add another extinguisher - Keep in mind, the fire extinguishers are required because of the kitchen. Beyond a small kitchen fire, they are not going to be very effective. They should be used as a last resort for escape, and should always be between you and the exit, not the other way around. Without proper maintenance, some reasonable training, and the right type of fire, you have less than a 10% chance of actually doing any good with it and using it will take valuable time away from escape. The Monty is insured - think first about getting out of there, and once out, stay out.

Typical RV fires are going to be generated by electrical or heating appliances. Electrical is behind the walls and below the belly. Once you detect it, it's way too late to try and get it out, as it is now burning in the insulation panels and wood interior well ahead of you. Burn to the ground time is less than 5 minutes.

All extinguishers should be checked regularly for pressure, and dry chemical types (typical for RV) need to be turned upside down and "thumped" to loosen any packed powder at the bottom. If you haven't checked your extinguisher in the last year, adding more will only give you a false sense of security and possibly delay your escape.

The BEST thing you can do is add more battery operated smoke detectors, including the living room, bedroom, bathroom (if your fuse blocks are in there) and the basement.

Ozz · 12-22-2006, 08:24 AM

Thanks, Brad. Good information.
I also bought a flashlight and nightlight combo. If the power is out, the light works. I am posting a picture of the First alert and the flashight on the steps outlet.
Night light, bed lights, First alert light;
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/100_0658.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/100_0656.jpg

bsmeaton · 12-22-2006, 08:34 AM

Ozz,

Those are perfect! I guess the first thing that goes in an electrical fire is the lights - especially if it's in the converter.

Brad

LonnieB · 12-22-2006, 08:34 AM

Very GOOD advise Brad, thank you.

Illini Trekker · 12-22-2006, 10:35 AM

If has in an electric fire or short in the belly and the short were to get to a gas line melt down, would the new type bottles shut down. With an open line and fire could we count on the bottles to shut off?

Ozz · 12-22-2006, 11:00 AM

Doubt it, but the main lines are iron pipe, helps us some.

H. John Kohl · 12-22-2006, 11:30 AM

The new bottles are suppose to shut down if they detect a fully open line. I noticed this unit has a regulator on the drivers side which should prevent the false shutdown when first installing and opening the refilled bottle.
I like the smoke detector with the light that is essential.
Great topic.
Cheers

bsmeaton · 12-23-2006, 05:10 AM

Dennis,

The tank safety valves are primarily designed for a broken hose in front of the regulator or regulator diaphram failure. An example would be an traffic accident where the tanks became disloged and broken away from the attached hose.

The safey valves could not sense a broken line downstream of the regulator, as the regulator itself holds enough back pressure to keep the valves open.

The only real hazard is buildup of unburned LP in an enclosed space. By design, there are very few spaces like that in the Montana. Most areas with gas are vented outside to the ground, including the LP tank cabinets. In an actual fire, the low pressure LP would contribute very little as compared to the rest of the fuels available (styrofoam, wood, etc.). If a fire in the Montana starts enveloping the tank storage areas, that would be a good time to grab your family and neighbors and RUN.

Brad

noneck · 12-23-2006, 05:19 AM

Ok, Got a q on the smoke detector locations. Mine was just before steps mid coach and keeps activating when cooking (NO, not burning the food...hahaha). I moved it just after the steps hoping the sliding door frame would de-senitize it from false alarming well, that made no difference. I worry that I keep pulling battery when in the middle of cooking and one day will forget to put it back!!! Looking for input here so I can keep it active all the time...or is it just in need of upgrade?
Thanks,
Chuck

Parrothead · 12-23-2006, 05:58 AM

Chuck,
I think you have a defective one. We had one like that in our previous 5er, went off at the slightest things and it wasn't near the stove. I've seen some of the more expensive ones where you can set the intentsity. Those would probably be good for the Montys since we are so close. Ours is close to the kitchen and it has never gone off except when we check it.
Happy trails....................

Illini Trekker · 12-23-2006, 06:32 AM

Thanks Brad, after the post and thinking about it the regulate would allow the flow of gas to continue. I have black pipe to the point that a three way split, then copper passes through the belly enclosure to the heater and appliances. My breaker box and heater are within inches of ether. The 110volt line and line running to the batteries all pass by those copper lines. Im rethinking how I need to treat this hazard? Really all I can think of is to move the wires away from harms way!

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