Hot Water Heater Anode

[dannyl]

I tried to drain my heater and can't get the anode free.
I bought the correct socket and can't break it loose.
Other than going back to the dealer does anyone have any advice?
I've tried the sprays and no luck.

[steves]

Suggest you put on a long extension and then use a leverage bar over the socket handle. It will come loose.

[illapah]

Sometimes the oposite of the desired is worth trying. Try TIGHTENING the rod somewhat and then loosening. Also, sometimes a sharp RAP is better than steady tension to get things going.

[ols1932]

Sometimes spraying a little WD-40 on it and letting it set for about 20-30 minutes helps.

Orv

[Bill Hill]

I had trouble too the first time I took it out. All of the above will help.

[stiles watson]

Get a really big dude from the hospital maintenance crew to do it for you. I doubt you can break it, so more leverage will be required as suggested in earlier posts.

[noneck]

I use 3/4 drive socket and rachet w/extension.
Chuck

[VanMan]

Tap on the end a few times like you are trying to drive it into the tank - not too hard, though. Then try the socket/ratchet with a "cheater" on the end. Sometimes a "breakover" extension is better (I've broken a cheap ratchet before).

[jsrang]

I couldn't get mine out, no matter how hard I tried even with a 1/2 inch socket and cheater bar. Until I tried TIGHTENING first, then it bagked right out. Need to break the seal first. It was sometrhing that I learned back in the Power Plant Maintenance days. Any kind of pipe that fits over the socket handle, should then give you the necessary leverage. Good Luck! Let us know how you got it out.

Jim

[G McCall]

If you have to drain the water heater (freeze protection) and in an emergency open the pressure relief valve, the water heater will drain.

Otherwise the above methods will either work or you will turn your trailer over.

[trukdoc]

If you can get acess to a air or electric impact wrench will do it. The vibrations seem to help. As mentioned a sharp jerk will work better than a steady pull.

[nkwist]

I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago. I sprayed some Liquid Wrench on it, waited a few minutes, tapped it, waited a couple more minutes and it came right out. For more leverage (longer handle) I used my torque wrench.

[noneck]

Well? Did you get it loose? One other point is you should use a 6 point socket to be sure you don't round the edges of that plug. Again I use a 3/4 inch drive socket, extension and long breaker bar...lefty loosy(CCW), righty tighty(CW)... When you do reinstall I always use a teflon base pipe dope as that stuff never hardens and seal very well.
Chuck
CCW = Counter ClockWise
CW = ClockWise

[ronnilu]

Once you get it loose, I've always just used teflon tape on the annode threads. No gunk to have to clean off when you need to take it out for inspection. Also makes it really easy to remove next time. How about it - did you get it out yet? Usually just needs enough torque. Mike

[sreigle]

At the risk of sounding stupid, I'm going to say this out loud. Since heat expands and cold extracts, would it help to let the water inside the tank heat up fully before trying to extract the anode rod? Or if it's already hot, maybe running all the hot water out until the water is cold? Or pouring cold water on the nut? I'm just thinking what might work if none of the other suggestions help. I'm not sure if the rod threaded part is the same material as the tank but, if not, then they might expand/contract at different rates. I know, this is far out.

[Karl]

Far out, Steve???

Physics still works. Great idea!!

[MIMF2]

A trick I learned a long time ago in the plastics injection molding industry from a previous life. When we took delivery of our first unit, the Outback and then the Challenger, the first thing I did was to pull the anode plug and wrapped the threads on the tube with teflon tape. All you need to do is wrap the threads on the "starter" or lead thread the width of the tape with about two layers. I keep a roll in the coach at all times. When you thread the tube back in, you won't have to make it super tight to keep it from leaking. The teflon tape also prevents a certain amout of corrosion from occuring which keeps the threads from seizing. This also prolongs the life of the female threads in the tank that the plug fits into because, the teflon acts as a lubricant. Then, the next time I want to pull the plug to drain the water heater, it comes loose fairly easily.

Am I making any sense?

[Emmel]

Yes Dave, yes you do! And don't forget, when you have the anode rod out, go ahead and spray water into the water heater and clean it out. There are different devices to do this, some store bought and like mine, made from a flower spray thingy. But, keep it cleaned out also!

[Fordzilla]

And if your a little tight with the $$$ while you have it out turn the water back on and while letting it run out the bottom of the heater stick your finger in the hole and plug it for 5-10 seconds and then let it blast out of there. Just make sure there is nothing in the path of the projecting water or they will get all wet. I do this a dozen times or so until I don't get any sediment out of the tank anymore, then replace the anode rod with Teflon tape like Dale mentioned earlier.

[VanMan]

Dale, your image in your signature didn't work - you're missing a bracket (]) after the first "IMG".