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Old 02-26-2016, 08:09 PM   #21
DAR
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Called Progressive today and have a new 12 volt distribution board and a new cover being shipped out on Monday $88.00 including shipping charges. That sounds a lot better than 300.00+ for a new one I knew I was jumping the gun taking it out so soon now I get to rewire what I could have left in place.
 
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Old 02-29-2016, 02:34 PM   #22
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Called Progressive today and have a new 12 volt distribution board and a new cover being shipped out on Monday $88.00 including shipping charges. That sounds a lot better than 300.00+ for a new one I knew I was jumping the gun taking it out so soon now I get to rewire what I could have left in place.
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:02 AM   #23
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Well I am finally finishing up the re install of my converter. I jumped the gun when I thought I would need to buy a new one and disconnected every wire and pulled the whole unit out. Thanks to Rohrmans suggestion I was able to purchase the 12 volt distribution panel itself and use the original converter and 110 volt distribution panel. It has been a lot more work re installing the 110 wires than it was removing it, and my workmanship is not as nice as they did at the factory. It is also a lot harder to work on than doing a panel in a house.

The work is mostly complete, but as I finished up with the battery connected my propane detector started to beep, without any fuses in the panel. I checked the voltage I have 12.6 volts at the ground to hot wires that feed the panel from the battery. When I check the bottom fuse connector just above the led light (the light is on) there is 11.8 volts and then at the top terminal it is 12.6 volts. Is there voltage on the ground side to light the leds when a fuse is blown or missing? not all of the leds are lit just the ones that have some draw on them?

I also noticed that #1 and #2 say to use for low current #1 has the AC and #2 has ODS hooked to it planning on moving the ods and hooking the Furnace to #2. Anybody see any possible problems with doing that?

Thanks in Advance
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Old 04-13-2016, 02:50 PM   #24
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Bumping up Forum was slow yesterday might have slowed down responses
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Old 04-13-2016, 04:31 PM   #25
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The red LEDs should light up when a fuse is blown. And no light when the fuse is good. When the fuse is good, the current goes thru the fuse, bypassing the LED since the fuse basically represents a short around the LED. When the fuse is blown, the fuse is then directly in line from the power hot to the devices it is serving and the LED lights up. If the fuse is blown, but there is no device connected on that circuit (i.e. all devices turned off) then the LED will not light up until you attempt to turn that device on, completing a path to ground. Except, if there is a resistor installed to light the LED on a blown fuse even if there is no load connected, it would light the LED. Don't know how our panels are designed.

Here are some diagrams to show just how they work.
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Old 04-13-2016, 10:28 PM   #26
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Wow it is has been like 35 years since I had a basic electronics class in High School. Forgot how much I don't know. From what I understand from the link to the other forum the 11.8 Volts I have on the ground side is normal and is what powers the Led in a short o r blown fuse condition with a load on the circuit. Sound right???
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Old 04-14-2016, 04:55 AM   #27
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A blown fuse basically interrupts the main circuit and diverts a small current flow thru the LED. But I am surprised at the 11.8 volts on the ground side of the fuse also. Doesn't seem right. Is it still there if you pull the fuse? (I was a systems application engineer in my working life, not a circuit designer.) But it would depend on what is in series with the LED on the ground side. If that load resistance is significantly higher than the LED resistance, then it would compute. Looking back at your pics there appears to be a resistor in series with each LED, as expected to control voltage drop across that LED, but can't tell from the pic how that resistor is actually connected in the circuit. Knowing that could explain it. LED voltage drop is typically in the 1 to 2 volts range.

But if it is blowing the fuse, there should not be a load resistance that high. Has really piqued my interest. Maybe I could just drive up to Idaho and help troubleshoot it.

Any circuit engineers out there with a clue?
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:45 AM   #28
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Well the weather here is a bit better than what Texas is in store for this weekend, some rain today tomorrow but should be nice and sunny for the weekend. If I get a chance will try to get a picture of the back of the board and maybe you can see from that how it is connected, oh and the fuses have never blown just had a major melt down
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:39 AM   #29
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I was at the storage facility today and got curious. I pulled the cover off the 12 vdc fuses. All fuses good and no lights on. As a test, I pulled the fuse to the porch light (to simulate a blown fuse) with the porch light switch off. The fuse light did not come on. I turned on the porch light switch with the fuse out and the associated fuse light came on. Put the fuse back in and the fuse light went back out. That says that the blown fuse light will only illuminate if there is a load on that line, meaning the fuse light actually goes to ground thru the load. So when all is good, no fuse lights should be on. And the only time a fuse light should illuminate is when a fuse is blown and the device it is feeding is turned on to supply a path to ground.


I forgot my meter so was not able to measure any voltages.
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:09 PM   #30
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I found the same thing with mine I am sure there are some phantom loads on some of the ones with the lights on, I wasn't able to track down everything on each fuse. I did however make a list of all items on each fuse that I could track down.

I took some more pictures if I could just find my patch cord to load them onto the computer..

I did get everything all put together and buttoned up and everything seems to be working as it should.

When I checked each wire as was suggested the Kitchen Ceiling Light wire kept blowing the fuse which just happened to be mismarked as the bedroom lights,and is the one that had the major meltdown. I had already ordered and installed a new switch for this line since the old one had quit working and just rocked back and forth. I removed the new switch and installed a different one to verify if the short was in that switch,with the second replacement switch installed the fuse quit blowing.

In diagnosing to find the short I pulled out the door jam switch that had quit working sometime ago, and the terminals had heated enough to melt the adhesive out of the shrink tube and glue the connectors to the spades on the switch. When the jam switch quit working I had pushed it in and put a piece of gorilla tape over it to keep the button in, allowing the screen door to close easier.

So I said all of that because I am not sure if all these things may have helped cause the melt down or maybe they are a result of the meltdown, or just a coincidence that they are all on the same circuit.
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