Rear Stabilizer Fuse

[worleyjrtx5]

On the down-home leg from Yellowstone, blew the fuse on our rear stabilizers. Searched for it under the front hood near the battery connection, no go. Called Keystone, said it should be on the power line within 18 inches of the stabilizer drive motor, not visible on mine. Searched both side of the trailer at the back, followed the lines until they disappeared under the underbelly cover. No go.

Any ideas where this fuse is?

[snfexpress]

Try removing the exterior switch at the back of the rig. Eighteen inches of wiring will probably make itself apparent; it was in mine.

[WaltBennett]

" . . at the back of the rig." Ours is on a panel inside or the remote & LCI controller. Is there a fuse somewhere hidden for them?

[worleyjrtx5]

I have searched at the remote control panel and followed the line for the stabilizer from the panel till it disappears into the firewall, no go.

Could it be on the panel and I am not recognizing it? The panel has two large circuit breakers on the top and no other fuses. Assume both circuit breakers are resettable? Am I wrong?

[worleyjrtx5]

On the passenger side, I can see from the stabilizer drive motor till it goes under the belly cover about 20 inches of line and then on the driver side of the rig, it comes out and there is about 30 inches visible before it goes into up into the belly again. Not aware of any switch plate or box on the back of the rig.

[DQDick]

Could it be on the panel and I am not recognizing it? The panel has two large circuit breakers on the top and no other fuses. Assume both circuit breakers are resettable? Am I wrong?
[/quote]

I think the breakers you are talking about are to protect the electronics from reversing the polarity on the battery by mistake.

[Phil P]

Hi

On ours there wasn’t any fuse for the stabilizers, they depended on one single 30 amp inline fuse in the supply line from the battery to the remote / manual switches.

The only other fuse / breaker was the 30 amp circuit breaker for the hydraulic system.

In the name of safety I have changed all of this except of the hydraulic system. I removed the remote system entirely and installed a fuse panel in place of it. Fused the lines to the landing gear and stabilizers according to the wire sizes. I also installed a 100 amp fuse in the battery ground lead.

Since then I have added a second landing gear motor to the passenger side leg, this system now has 5 circuit breakers in it because I didn’t use the conventional system of operation I run both motors at the same time with one switch.

Phil P

[worleyjrtx5]

Phil, that would be true except the front stabilizers work just fine as do all other hydraulics. Still believe there is an in line fuse some where, just haven't found it. And the search will continue.

[DQDick]

Are you sure the stabilizer motor is good? That motor failing due to water getting in where the wiring enters is a known problem.

[Phil P]

quote:Originally posted by worleyjrtx5

Phil, that would be true except the front stabilizers work just fine as do all other hydraulics. Still believe there is an in line fuse some where, just haven't found it. And the search will continue.

Hi

Please make sure you let us all know what you finally find wrong.

Phil P

[worleyjrtx5]

DQ, haven't even considered a bad motor. I will check the line for power tomorrow and see if there is power to the motor.

It failed in a virtual hurricane in Ogallala, NE and it very well could have gotten water in it. 4.5 inches of rain and 60 mile an hour winds. A very interesting night in the rig. Stabilizers would not retract the next morning.

[worleyjrtx5]

DQ, you were exactly correct.

The motor was the problem. Power was still on to the motor, but it was not functioning. So, I removed it and disassembled. It was FULL of water. I have blown it out, reset the brushes and still no go. There is an electric motor shop in Killeen where I will take it and see if they can do any thing with it. Has a sticker on it that says it was made in India and passed inspection. It had a rubber jacket on it, but the way the power lines went into it, in a heavy rain, such as what we went through in Ogallala, NE, water was going to get in it. Wonder why just a dab of silicon sealer wasn't put around that wiring?

Any ideas where I might find one other than Lippert?

[worleyjrtx5]

I had another go at the motor this morning, emory clothed the armature and checked the continuity of all the wiring, put it back together, and we have a working motor!! I reassembled it with the gear box, put the rubber cover on it, covered the whole thing with silicone, including where the wiring goes in and mounted it back on the rig and it works just fine. By my guestimate, I saved myself or my extended warranty folks $313.00 plus shipping and labor, not to mention 3 to 5 weeks of shop wait time down at Crestview.

[DQDick]

Glad to hear you found it and got it working. The fact that this can happen is why I carry a bit to use my drill to raise or lower it in an emergency.

[worleyjrtx5]

I am going to figure out a bit for my drill to match the end piece on the stabilizer so I don't have to crank it should it fail again, good idea., thanks.

[worleyjrtx5]

I took an old Craftsman 9/16" deep well 3/8 drive socket, Dremel tool cut the slots in it to match the turning crank that comes with the Mountaineer and tried it out with my 19 volt cordless drill on a horrible freight 24 inch extension. Works like a dream. Also, same extension with a 19/3/4" socket will raise and lower the spare tire. Thanks DQ, good idea and easy fix.

[Hiller]

Had the same thing just happen on my rig. In my case it was a blown 15 amp in line fuse very close to LCI crt board in front compartment. these are red square blocks that will pull apart reveling a fuse.

[worleyjrtx5]

Hiller, I will look. As stated, my problem is fixed with the motor overhaul. May have to find this fuse if the landing legs and stabilizers stop working.

[branmo6x]

My motor failed and I find it quicker to us a cordless drill and I
can watch them come down. The remote only works from the rear when it
has a new battery