Generator questions

[sfretts]

As we get more experience and use our trailer more, we are spreading our comfort zone. I have agreed to Take our Mountaineer to the sand dunes in Oregon in a couple weeks and will have no power or water, so we will have to change up on the com forts of having hookups (and TV). Question is, I have a 3500 watt/4000 peak generator we want to use. It has a 30 amp trailer plug, so hooking up to trailer is fine. Other than not running the air conditioner, is there anything I need to be aware of when running on generator during the afternoon. I know it should charge the batteries, but can we use the TV (have satellite) and microwave if needed? Anything I should not use?

Thanks as always

Steve

[rogue]

Steve, First Welcome to the Forum.
With 3500 watts, you should be able to do most things while the generator is running. Just be careful on combining items that draw a lot of current. Toaster, coffee maker, Hair dryer/Iron, Microwave, Hot water heater, etc. using one or two at a time should be fine. Run the hot water, fridge on propane. Start out with a full fresh water tank, and empty black, gray and galley tanks. I don't think you will need the air conditioner at the Oregon coast. Take an extra fuel can for the generator (unless its Propane).

Have fun you will do fine.
Bob

[ols1932]

You should have no problems running whatever you want, AC included, as long as you don't run everything at once. A 3500-watt generator will provide roughly 30 amperes at 120 volts. This is more than a lot of RV parks provide with their 30 amp hookups.

Orv

[bncinwv]

It largely depends on the generator, if it is a sine-wave type (Honda eu or similar) then everything in the rig can be powered without a problem, but obviously not all at the same time. If it is a construction grade generator, I would caution you on the use of either the microwave or the television since they are very sensitive to the variations in current that a construction-type generator puts out. Food for thought.
Bingo

[sfretts]

Thanks for the replies. It is , I guess a construction grade (purchased at auto parts store a few years ago). I used it for a week last year after our big storm here in WA state. Worked great and I ran the TV all week. It should be a fun weekend of camping and Quad riding.

Steve

[firetrucker]

Steve,

It's the frequency and voltage variations that can damage equipment, which, unless you have a defective generator, mostly shouldn't be a problem with a 3500 W unit. The inverter type generators keep much better control of those variables, as well as being considerably quieter.

It would be a good idea to get a clamp on ammeter to check just how much each of the major appliances draw so you know what you can have running at the same time. There are a number of "hidden" current draws, including the battery charger, that can put you over the top when you don't expect it. The ammeter will help identify those, too.

Make sure the connections are good and solid, and you shouldn't have a problem unless everything decides to come on at the same time.

Bob

[h2oUdoN]

I have a Generator question and know someone will have the answer.

I have purchased 2 Honda 2000's with the parallel kit. They are cable locked in the rear of my pickup.
I have a '08 Tana 3400. I dry camp a few times on a trip when we stop for the evening as we travel. i.e. WalMart, escapee's parks.

I would like to be able to have a short hook up to the front of the coach. That way I wouldn't have to drag out the elec. shore line from front to back. I only use the generators for A/C and microwave and sometimes TV. I have a 30amp elec shore line from a previous trailer.
The 3400 is wired for a propane generator, but I didn't see a need for a $5 or $6,000 cost.

Next question is an inverter. How to wire it into the coach to just run the wall plugs. Computer, TV and small fans.

Thanks in advance for you help.

Pearre Davenport (1st name pronounced 'Perry')

[HamRad]

Perry,

If you're running your Hondas then you already have the built in inverter. If you're just wanting to run directly off your batteries then you'll need to install an inverter. Install it as close to your batteries as you can to make the DC run. Then just hook up whichever circuits you want to run off of the inverter.

I use one Honda and it runs everything I need or want. We don't do a lot of boondocking. With what we need or want we just run the generator. I do carry 2 or 3 small and medium inverters. I use the small one to run my CPAP at night when I'm not running the generator.

At least a couple of folks have wired a shore/generator hookup from the rear to the front of the trailer. Perhaps one of them will stop by and give you more information.

Good luck.

Dennis

[bncinwv]

Pearre,
I added a plug to the front of the rig to accomplish basically what you are trying to do. It could be done with an internal non-mounted plug just as easy but then would require leaving the battery compartment door open for hook-ups. I did mine with a new shore-power inlet on the front of the rig so I could run the generator while the rig was hooked up to the truck and being pulled. If you are generator prepped (sounds like you are), in the back of the battery compartment (on mine at least) is an automatic switch mechanism (Iota Smartswitch) that goes to the rear shore feed and to the optional gen-set. You can tap into this switch to accomplish what you are trying to do. If you are interested in the details and electrically inclined (wiring anything electrical can be hazardous and should be done by certified electricians - had to put that disclaimer in!!), I posted a schematic as well as photos of my project that will give a clearer idea.
Bingo

[ols1932]

quote:Originally posted by HamRad

Perry,

Install it as close to your batteries as you can to make the DC run. Then just hook up whichever circuits you want to run off of the inverter.
Good luck.
Dennis

When installing an inverter, you must be careful not to have it installed near the batteries if they are the standard water-filled batteries due to the gases given off the batteries. My Pro-Sine 2.0 inverter came with those instructions. One of the reasons we went to the Lifeline AGM batteries.

Orv

[WorkerB]

Bingo,
I am looking for the schematic and photos you refer to. Where do I find them? I am hooking up an inverter and want to energize all the 110 outlets in the Monty.
Thanks,
John

[HamRad]

There seems to be a bit of confusion regarding where the inverter should be located. As stated earlier it should be as close to the battery as possible. However, as Orv states, it should not be in the same place as the batteries. The cable runs should be as short as possible. Many folks have their batteries in the front basement. That seems to be the normal place. Then they install the inverter on the bulkhead separating the front basement from the main basement. It is installed on the main basement side. Then the cable runs will be relatively short. Generally just drill an access hole between the front basement and the main basement. Of course you'd want to try to seal any leaks between the two compartments. As Orv stated the inverter and batteries must not be located in the same open space.

I don't know if this has made things better or worse! Good luck.

HamRad

[bsmeaton]

I agree it's always a good idea to separate the ignition sources from the batteries, but realistically there is nothing very intrinsically safe about anything else in that forward compartment where the batteries are . Between the reversing solenoid and hydraulic motor for the slides throwing sparks and blowing fuses right above the battery, there is the landing gear motor above that, plus the generator transfer switch relays within a few inches of the battery if so equipped (not to mention the generator). I wouldn't think the inverter would be a greater hazard than whats already there.

The inverter instructions may be a little too generic and overly conservative. Technically if you keep your battery in the battery box it came with from the factory that ventilates to the outside (or equivalent), that should be enough of a barrier.

Just my thoughts - sometimes it would seem to be a greater hazard locating the inverter in a space susceptible to insufficient cooling space because it gets covered by storage.

[ols1932]

The location of the inverter is not a problem if sealed batteries are used.

Orv

[KTManiac]

quote:Originally posted by WorkerB

Bingo,
I am looking for the schematic and photos you refer to. Where do I find them? I am hooking up an inverter and want to energize all the 110 outlets in the Monty.
Thanks,
John

I found some photos here >>>http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...ad.php?t=29090

[hookman]

The battery boxes in our Montana are vented to the outside and thought this is the standard procedure now.

[WorkerB]

Bingo,
Got it! Thanks for responding. I'm still in the process of collecting hardware.
Best Regards,
John S.

[KTManiac]

quote:Originally posted by bncinwv

WorkerB,
Somehow I missed your post on this thread. Here is the thread on my installation with the schematic:
ems and autoformer schematic
Bingo

That explains why I couldn't find it, it was in an archived post! Forgot about those.


Next question is:

Is this the way your project ended up being, just like this 2nd schematic?



It could be a little safer by swapping the male and female plugs around on the autoformer.

If you run the front power supply from the genny into the Iota transfer switch as shown, it would automatically lock out the power from the rear plug at the Iota switch. But, then if you wanted to use shore power through the front plug, you would be by-passing the autoformer. I guess if you had one more plug connection on the Iota wired to the genny input, you could disconnect it there and make the front power plug run through the AF. But then, if you forgot to disconnect it from the AF and hooked up your genny to it, it could be a problem.

How was the project finally done?? Inquiring minds want to know!!!

I am planning to do something similar this spring, but have not figured out how to have the autoformer mounted in the coach and hook up to shore power, through an AF, from the front or the rear plug, but also be able to use the genny (by-passing the AF) with the front or rear plug as well.

I can't see a way around the dilemma, short of just plugging the AF into a surge suppressor right at the outdoor pedestal. I am no electrical whiz, but up until now, I have managed not to electrocute myself in the past with any of my projects. .....so far

Any help is appreciated!

Ps.
Somehow, I skimmed past the 2nd schematic on my first read through of the thread, and was wondering how in the heck is this supposed work!
It might be a good idea to put a watermark on the pic of the first schematic, stating that this is not the way to do it, and that male/male energized power cords can be a very bad idea. Just a thought.

[bncinwv]

KTManiac,
That was a good catch. The male and female ends were changed on the actual install after many forum discussions. I will delete the post and post it and the album location of the installation pics on a new thread. I will also delete the wrong schematics from Photobucket so all previous links will be invalid. Keep in mind the purpose of my installation was primarily to allow me a generator hookup for the front when the rig is being pulled (Air conditioning for the pets who travel in crates in the rig). The generator can be used on the back provided that the Autoformer is unplugged from the circuit. I have yet to have occasion where I would want shore power through the front receptacle, but if that is your purpose, then I am sure the Autoformer could be wired after the Smartswitch where it could be disconnected for generator use as well.
Bingo