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Old 02-19-2007, 11:41 AM   #1
Oregon Gypsys
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Aloha
Posts: 24
M.O.C. #2110
Our msg Dec 1 (Help)


A few words to continue our ongoing saga.
We had to interrupt our full timing because of our leaks. We have
been in and out of trouble since. We came back to the valley and
got into icey roads and 20% temps. Nearly went off a cliff with
trailer and truck twice. No major damage and no one hurt.
We took it to our dealer for repairs and rats got in and chewed
hoses while it was there.
Now for the good news. We did make arrangments to take trailer to
Pendelton OR factory.
Took trailer there last tuesday. The gentlemen took a look at our
front slides. One turned to the other and said "Do you believe that?
We can fix that."
We were impressed by these gentlemen and have confidence our leak
problem will be solved.
I pulled some of the panels and found the chewed tubing and hose
but was unable to repair it because it started to rain and I was
on the city street.
After looking in the belly and finding wires and hoses not prot-
ected I'm thinking about pulling all the panels and protecting
the hoses and wires, insulating and sealing everything etc. I
thought I read a thread in the forum about someone who did this
but couldn't find it.
Would appreciate any advice about best way to protect wires and
hoses, what kind of insulation, above and below hoses? best way
seal panels?
Thank You Glenn
 
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Old 02-19-2007, 01:54 PM   #2
Native Tex
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Guys I am certainly in favor of doing a very similar thing to my unit. I have been under and dropped some of the belly pans due to a leaking black tank. After looking over most of the underneath connections, it just seems like it would be worth the time and effort to take on the task. If you took your time and did a good solid job it could save a lot of energy and keep pipes from freezing. It is a good tasks if you have plenty of time. Maybe there are others who have done the same and can give some advice before you proceed.
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Old 02-19-2007, 03:40 PM   #3
Illini Trekker
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I have been in the belly of the beast, and have added fiberglass insulation plus did my best with the maze of wires, hoses etc. All the black will not come down pipes, brake wires, drain lines, will not let all come down. That may be a blessing?
I removed all the self tapping screw and let the belly come down or just hang. Then using wire loom wrap do your best to cover wire and hoses there are lots of wires running all over. Most of my wires for brakes, tail light, marking lights, run down the drivers side. Loads of solder less wire connectors to check and get in the way of running the loom. I may be lucky as my trailer only has two slides and just the one hydraulic ram to deal with. I also tighten all pipe connection then run heat tape and put foam pipe wrap on hot and cold water lines. I was able to group the hot and cold water line together with the heat tape and foam wrap, which we make it easer. As far as the insulation part of the fix I went with foil backed fiberglass. The type I used was just an 1 1/2 thick. When all the pipe wrap was done and the wire, and hoses cover, I then just laid the fiberglass on top of the black belly and put the screws back in. Allow enough fiberglass to lay on each frame member so they are also cover, a little spray glue will help hold it in place. With the insulation only being 1 1/2 thick the same screws could be used and didn't make it to bad of a fight to get the black back up! The front holding tanks, I cover top bottom and sides with the same insulation. You'll see the heat duck that come from the heater in the frame so try to point it in the right direction so it will blow heat air where you need it. Sorry to be so long winded but it is a big job and will take more than a day.

Here are some links to the products used

http://cableorganizer.com/spiral-wrap/

http://www.owenscorning.com/comminsu...albatt_eng.pdf
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Old 02-20-2007, 06:30 AM   #4
VanMan
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There was an article in our newspaper yesterday about how to prevent rodents from damaging automobile wiring. The recommendation was the purchase of fox urine and putting a couple of saturated cotten balls under the hood where they will stay and can be replenished. I'd heard of this for preventing squirrels in the attic and critters under the house & deck so I guess it'll work for mice & rats in the RV. The article also stated that they have NOT attracted any unwanted foxes (yet).
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Old 02-20-2007, 09:36 AM   #5
Connorsmom
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So...how much do foxes get for peeing into a cup and selling it? Okay, Okay...just kidding.

Jan
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Old 02-20-2007, 10:21 AM   #6
padredw
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Thanks, Dennis, for that very helpful explanation. Of course, I have the same model Montana as you so all would apply. My need to tackle this project is that I have a sticky galley waste valve that needs attention. I've tried several things short of taking off the underbelly, but nothing has worked. Did you get a look at that part of the plumbing? I know there has to be some way to get to that valve. If I do this operation I would want to take care of the other housekeeping at the same time.
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Old 02-20-2007, 09:18 PM   #7
315RLS
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Oregon Gypsys


After looking in the belly and finding wires and hoses not prot-
ected I'm thinking about pulling all the panels and protecting
the hoses and wires, insulating and sealing everything etc. I
thought I read a thread in the forum about someone who did this
but couldn't find it.
It may be that many of these trailers are constructed differently but found on ours when I pulled the belly panels that there was a heating hose that feeds into the belly area. If I was to insullate the hoses I believe I may loose the value of the heat being blown into this area. (I think this may be to keep the hoses above freezing??). I've considered putting insullation board between the floor and the underbelly area to keep heat in the trailer but haven't done anything yet.
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Old 02-21-2007, 03:10 AM   #8
Illini Trekker
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Dave on your model trailer you'll need to start by dropping the spare tire support. You may need to undo the wire nuts to the brakes so you won't be straining the magnet wires (you should solder them back together later). With the screws removed the panel we relax and lay on the axle and the drain that comes from that gray water tank. You'll need to cut the bubble foil (Artic Package) as it's one piece front to back to gain entry. I have never needed to work on my valves but you will be able to get to it fairly easy at this point.
This is where I did most of the heat taping and foam pipe wrap work.
315RLS The duck is there to heat the air under the trailer and the foam that is added will help with the extreme air temp. swings. I used fiberglass insulation because I could form it to lay on the trailer I beams to help insulate those. With steels near 0 R-rating this is an important step.
I work construction and at times I use the trailer as housing in all seasons that is why I have went to the steps to keep it from freezing up.SeeYa
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Old 02-21-2007, 08:35 AM   #9
padredw
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Thanks, Dennis, for this valuable additional information. I must admit that I have a bit of hesitation about tackling this job. I have been up on the roof today as part of a total wash job, but crawling/rolling/scooting along under the belly of the beast is not something I think I would enjoy. It is only my being a Scot that makes me even consider it, as I know that the cost of labor to repair that sticky valve might be pretty high. One way or the other I'll have to get it done.
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