What am I doing wrong?

[Baldicon]

I apologize for the length of the post below.

First, let me describe the repeated problem with my 5th wheel hitches (yes more than one). My first hitch was a B&W Companion (Ford puck mount). Initially, it worked great. But I wanted to add some damping between the truck and 5th wheel, so I replaced my Roto-flex pin box with a Lippert Trailair. After using the combination approximately 18 months, I developed play between the pin box pin and hitch jaws which caused a loud “clunk” when stopping or starting forward. I placed a strip of blue masking tape covering the side of the pin box and hitch and cut a slit in the tape between the two. I then made a pencil mark after the truck/5th wheel was backed up and then pulled forward and the two pencil marks were about an 1/8” apart showing there was play between the two. I sent pictures to B&W, and they replaced the hitch head, no questions asked (great service).

So the new hitch head and Trailair combo worked great, for another 18 months when it developed the same “clunking” noise. This time I crawled in the truck bed behind the hitch and watched the hitch jaws. The “clunking” noise was caused by the jaw slightly opening and then slamming back closed whenever the truck/5th wheel was started or stopped. Took a video of the jaw movement and sent it to B&W and again they replaced the hitch head at no cost. I questioned the B&W engineer about the B&W combination with the Trailair, and he said there are a lot of folks using that combination and they had not seen the problem that I had.

But before I used the new hitch head, I came across a used Comfort Ride hitch which has built in damping. So I put my old Roto-flex pin box back on (not supposed to use a cushioned pin box with a cushioned hitch). It worked great moving camp spots at our local campground, and then also on our recent trip down to Destin and Gulf Shores. But when moving from Destin to Gulf Shores, I noticed a familiar sound and it continued on our trip back home. When we got back home, I checked and yes, the jaws were opening and then closing slightly, similar to the B&W (but not quit as bad).

So, I am wondering if I am causing damage with my hitching procedure.

Here is the way I hookup: I position the pin box plate slightly below the hitch plate and then let the pin box plate ride up onto the hitch plate as I back up. I use the truck camera to line the hitch and pin box up as I back up. When I get close, I get out and walk behind the truck to make sure the two are lined up good. And then I use the mirror on the front of the camper to watch the pin box ride up onto the hitch so I won’t slam into it too hard. And, I always do a pull test with the front jacks a couple of inches off the ground after hooking up.

Here is the way I unhook: I extend the front jacks down until the pin box plate slightly lifts off of the hitch plate. I then retract the front jacks slightly until the pin box presses down on the hitch. So, after releasing the hitch, the pin box plate slides down off of the hitch plate slightly as I pull the truck out.
Once when releasing the Comfort Ride hitch, it was in a slight bind and I had to use a little force to push the handle to release the jaws. The truck moved a little forward when the jaws released.

Do any of you guys or girls see a problem with my hitching or unhitching procedure that would cause the problems and I am having? It has happened with two different hitches and two different pin boxes.

Thanks in advance for any input.

[DQDick]

The only thing I do differently is that I leave the pin box weight entirely off the hitch when i disconnect. In fiact, my pullrite is hard enough to get to disconnect even then.

[Daryles]

Curt Q20 hitch. Regular pin box.
Hitching:
I try to make sure the pin and the hitch are as level as possible.
Un-hitching:
Chock the wheels.
Raise the landing gear until I can just see a sliver of separation between the hitch and pin.
In the truck. Shift from Park to neutral, let off the brake pedal to release any forward or backwards pressure on the pin. Put it back in park. Then pull the pin release handle.
I have a lube plate disk, but I give the plate a squirt of lithium spray. I also lube the jaws and mechanics with lithium spray regularly.

[RMcNeal]

Baldicon, I have the same clunking noise you are describing and it scared the heck out of me the first time it happened. I thought the hitch was coming out of the truck. After checking the mount points in the pucks and everything else I could think of, I called B&W and sent them pictures of our hitch, pin box, etc. It was suggested that the swivel part of the rotaflex pin box needed lubrication as it is able to "flex" up and down on the pin box. I spray the sides of the bolt plates where the bottom plate bolts onto the pin box with the rotating head with white lithium grease and the clunking went away. It does come back periodically and I will spray it again. I have checked that these bolts are tightened to the proper torque also. I don't remember what that was, but 120 lb. ft. seems right.
It's hard to describe, but I'll try and get some pics when it gets light enough out.

[ChuckS]

Nothing wrong with your hitch or unhitch procedure.. by riding up on the hitch plate in the truck you are insuring you most likely will never get a "high hitch"

been doing it the same way for 45 years

[Baldicon]

Originally Posted by DQDick

The only thing I do differently is that I leave the pin box weight entirely off the hitch when i disconnect. In fiact, my pullrite is hard enough to get to disconnect even then.

Thanks for reply Dick, when I let the pin box back down on the hitch, it's putting very little weight on the hitch. As soon as I see the small gap between the pin box plate and the hitch disappear, and the truck just starting to squat (or the hitch head start to squat on the Comfort Ride) I stop at that point.

[mlh]

It’s very unlikely you have had three bad new hitches. Do you use one of the lube plates? You might be too sensitive to a little movement.
It is impossible to make a hitch without some play in both the pin and plate. So you will get some movement in the pin because there must be tolerance when the jaws and pin are made to insure the hitch will work.
Lynwood

[Baldicon]

Originally Posted by Daryles

Curt Q20 hitch. Regular pin box.
Hitching:
I try to make sure the pin and the hitch are as level as possible.
Un-hitching:
Chock the wheels.
Raise the landing gear until I can just see a sliver of separation between the hitch and pin.
In the truck. Shift from Park to neutral, let off the brake pedal to release any forward or backwards pressure on the pin. Put it back in park. Then pull the pin release handle.
I have a lube plate disk, but I give the plate a squirt of lithium spray. I also lube the jaws and mechanics with lithium spray regularly.

Thanks for the reply Daryl, I possibly opened the hitch jaws with some forward/backward pressure, but not to the point that I would think it could cause any damage. When I was using the B&W hitch, I used a lube plate on both pin boxes. But the Comfort Ride has a permanent lube plate attached to the hitch plate, I do spary a little silicon spray on it before hooking up. I also keep the pin and hitch jaws lubed with high-temp axle grease.

[Baldicon]

Originally Posted by RMcNeal

Baldicon, I have the same clunking noise you are describing and it scared the heck out of me the first time it happened. I thought the hitch was coming out of the truck. After checking the mount points in the pucks and everything else I could think of, I called B&W and sent them pictures of our hitch, pin box, etc. It was suggested that the swivel part of the rotaflex pin box needed lubrication as it is able to "flex" up and down on the pin box. I spray the sides of the bolt plates where the bottom plate bolts onto the pin box with the rotating head with white lithium grease and the clunking went away. It does come back periodically and I will spray it again. I have checked that these bolts are tightened to the proper torque also. I don't remember what that was, but 120 lb. ft. seems right.
It's hard to describe, but I'll try and get some pics when it gets light enough out.

Thanks for the reply Robert. I have sprayed the swivel bolts on the Rotoflex with lithium grease as you suggested, but have not torqued the bolts. But in my case, I could (B&W) and can (Comfort Ride) actually see the hitch jaws opening slightly and then closing back. The closing is what was and is making the clunk sound. I will torque the Rotoflex swivel bolts before we head out again.

[Baldicon]

Originally Posted by ChuckS

Nothing wrong with your hitch or unhitch procedure.. by riding up on the hitch plate in the truck you are insuring you most likely will never get a "high hitch"

been doing it the same way for 45 years

Thanks for the reply Chuck. I've watched dozens of videos on the proper way to hitch and unhitch, and this is the method I've settled on. You are correct that by lettting the pin box slide up on the hitch, you eliminate the possibility of high-hitching. Everything should be lined up, because that is the configuration it is in when towing. And by letting the pin box slide down off of the hitch, you can not place any upward pressure on the jaws if you raise the trailer too high. I'm not talking about a lot of upward lift when the pin box slides up onto the hitch, or not a lot of downward slide when unhitching.

[Baldicon]

Originally Posted by mlh

It’s very unlikely you have had three bad new hitches. Do you use one of the lube plates? You might be too sensitive to a little movement.
Lynwood

I agree completely Lynwood. I assumed the first B&W hitch was faulty. But when the second head started having the same problem, I pretty well eliminated the hitch as the problem. I did question the angle of the bottom hinged portion of the Trailair when coupled to the hitch. It placed the hitch plate at a slightly forward tilt. So instead of pulling straight back on the hitch jaws, the jaws are also tilted slightly upward (hope I'm making sense). I discussed this possibility with the B&W engineer, and he didn't think that was an issue. With regard to being too sensitive, that is a possibility. I can be a little anal about things. But the B&W engineer said that the jaws should not be moving the way they were on the video I sent him. I didn't mention in my initial post, but I could actually move the port side jaw slightly by just pushing with my fingers. I haven't tried that on the Comfort Ride hitch jaws yet.

[DadsHemi]

I use the same BW with exception it’s a slider, also my head it the morryde with the big rubber damper. The only time I had and cluck issues

1-I had to re-torque the puck bolts
2-I had to re-torque my pin box bolts

I check all the bolts every time before we head out, I also Lube the heck out of everything on the head and jaws and I use a Lube plate.

[Baldicon]

I want to add that in no way am I throwing stones at either B&W or Comfort Ride. There is a bazillion B&W hitches out there and the vast majority of owners love them. B&W have replaced two hitch heads, you can't stand behind your product much better than that. Not near as many Comfort Ride hitches but they too appear to be well built.

So all fingers point at Baldicon being the problem, but I can't figure out what it is.

[Baldicon]

Originally Posted by DadsHemi

I use the same BW with exception it’s a slider, also my head it the morryde with the big rubber damper. The only time I had and cluck issues

1-I had to re-torque the puck bolts
2-I had to re-torque my pin box bolts

I check all the bolts every time before we head out, I also Lube the heck out of everything on the head and jaws and I use a Lube plate.

Thanks for the reply DadsHemi. I check torque on just about every bolt before we head out on a trip. I used a lube plate on the B&W and lube the pin and jaws. The "clunk" sound was definitely coming from the jaws opening and closing back.

[mlh]

Originally Posted by Baldicon

I want to add that in no way am I throwing stones at either B&W or Comfort Ride. There is a bazillion B&W hitches out there and the vast majority of owners love them. B&W have replaced two hitch heads, you can't stand behind your product much better than that. Not near as many Comfort Ride hitches but they too appear to be well built.

So all fingers point at Baldicon being the problem, but I can't figure out what it is.

I think all of us understand your aren’t throwing rocks at anyone and all you wont is to be sure you’re safe. That is all any of us are interested in.
Lynwood

[Baldicon]

Originally Posted by mlh

It’s very unlikely you have had three bad new hitches. Do you use one of the lube plates? You might be too sensitive to a little movement.
It is impossible to make a hitch without some play in both the pin and plate. So you will get some movement in the pin because there must be tolerance when the jaws and pin are made to insure the hitch will work.
Lynwood

I totally agree that there has to be some tolerance between the pin and jaws. But should you be able to see the jaws open/close? And should I be able to actually move the jaw with my fingers?

[rvman]

One of the reasons I went with an Anderson Ultimate was to remove any looseness in the truck to trailer connection. I also have a Trail Air. 35lb total weight, can hang it on the garage wall and I never have to worry that the hitch didn't lock. Seen too many 5th wheels slide out the back of the hitch and drop on the bed.

[mlh]

Originally Posted by Baldicon

I totally agree that there has to be some tolerance between the pin and jaws. But should you be able to see the jaws open/close? And should I be able to actually move the jaw with my fingers?

Yes. There again hast to be tolerance in the closing of the jaws.
Lynwood

[GreG L.]

I also went with the Anderson hitch for three reasons.

1 Because of how tight everyone said it was, it still is after 6 trips from FL to CA and back.

2 Because I watched a guy pull out from his hitch with his jacks down, not a pretty site. At my age I need to eliminate all chances of "well that was stupid".

3 With 3 minutes I (or the wife) can have my bed cleared of the hitch and it fits in the trailers storage.

Not for everyone, but works for me.

[mhs4771]

Okay, here's my questions:
1) Which model of Comfort Ride are you using?
2) Do you know if your Comfort Ride is from the original designer?
3) Or is it from Road Master after they bought out the Designer/Original Builder?
I have one of the original Comfort Ride Model #245, 25K hitches with a MORryde Pin and have no movement at all, in fact it's so tight I have to leave the TV in reverse to put pressure so I can close the Jaws and most of the time the same to disconnect.
There is a locking section of Steel that goes between the jaws preventing any possible movement of the jaws, unless something is worn extremely bad. I have many miles on my combo and everything is just as tight as the day purchased, and I'm pulling between 19 and 20K depending on loading.