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Old 12-20-2020, 08:07 AM   #1
Wmilbauer
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Installing slide out cover on 2011 3400

I am trying to install a slide out cover on the kitchen slide out but the vent in the upper right corner is in the way. I can go up on the aluminum trim. how do I fasten it? Do I tap the aluminum or will the supplied screws cut their own threads in the aluminum without breaking.
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Old 12-20-2020, 09:49 AM   #2
jsb5717
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Welcome aboard! I'm not an expert and have no first had experience but it seems that I've seen toppers mounted to the outer fascia. You obviously can't run screws above the roof line so will need to be careful about placement. The screws will tap themselves, although it can't hurt to pre-drill a slightly smaller hole

I would do some good online searches for different installs. Hopefully someone here has already dealt with this and can offer good advice.

Good luck and welcome
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Old 12-20-2020, 10:11 AM   #3
jcurtis934
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Mounting depends on the brand of slide topper hardware you are using. A & E Dometic hardware mounts into the slide room wall right below the aluminum facial and at the extreme outboard part of the room wall starting just inboard of the facial that runs vertically.
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Old 12-20-2020, 02:49 PM   #4
Wmilbauer
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I am using Solera slide topper and it normally attaches as you stated but the vent is in that location.
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Old 12-20-2020, 02:52 PM   #5
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You might call Solera CS and ask them.
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Old 12-21-2020, 04:44 AM   #6
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I did contact solera and they were some help but they were guessing like I am. They did inform me that I could reduce the tension from 14 to a minimum of 9 turnsbecause they felt that the new location may not be as strong. I will attempt to contact Keystone today.
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Old 12-21-2020, 09:14 AM   #7
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So as I see it, your problem is created by 1) The over large solera mounting brackets and 2) keystones mounting a vent very near the slide out room roof/ceiling and the slide out room wall. That vent mounting seems to be extremely strange, at best not very well thought out design wise. The slide out facial or more correctly termed flange is aluminum with two purposes, as you know, cover the side wall cutout for the slide and the flap seals AND to provide a mounting groove for the bulb seals, which are the first defense against water intrusion when the slide is closed. The flange is not that thick and only held to the room by screws. Not thick enough to provide adequate screw holding power, so the screws that do mount into the slide out room wall are what will be carrying the work. Look at the dometic mounting bracket compared to the solera one. It really sounds like a slide topper is not possible for that slide. Reducing the tension on the slide is going to mean more sagging of the material and a lot of wind flap.
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Old 12-21-2020, 09:48 AM   #8
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I don't know if this helps at all but I saw this on a 2013 video on how to replace the fabric on an A&E topper. The video isn't about how the brackets are installed but you can clearly see that they are mounted on the flange. I don't know what the install would have looked like, only that the methodology for mounting on the flange has been used before.
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Old 12-21-2020, 09:51 AM   #9
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Also, here's a link to a similar conversation on the Keystone Forum. Pics also show mounting to the flange. The thread discourages that application.


https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=30049
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Old 12-22-2020, 04:34 AM   #10
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I spoke to keystone yesterday but I wasn’t aware of the electrical wiring in that location so I will give keystone another call.
Thanks
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Old 12-22-2020, 05:47 AM   #11
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If yours is like the photos supplied by jsb5717, I would first pull that vent cover off to see what is behind it. Is there slide reinforcing steel (or wood)? Or even any metal ducting!! That cover may be bigger then the actual ducting. Additionally, I would not be a bit afraid of using nut and bolt combos and actually putting them through any ducting, using fender washers for sealing on the inside.



Mounting the brackets that high to me looks awkward and the tension might tend to pull the slide flange out of shape. Reducing the roller tension will allow the fabric to flap in very light winds - and flapping gets real annoying fast. Also, moving the brackets higher will also force you to move the body awning rail higher for water drainage. Lastly, make sure you buy the correct length topper. The one shown in the photos is way too long, creating a lever effect with the length of adjuster bar extension.


Good luck. Let us know how you make out
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Old 12-23-2020, 04:36 PM   #12
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My unit has slide Toppers on all 4 slides. The topper where the refrigerator is is mounted higher than the rest into that top trim piece with short screws. What that does is make the slope much less and it collects a little bit of water.
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Old 12-24-2020, 08:03 AM   #13
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I have completed the install on the slide out with the refrigerator vent with no problem. I predrilled thru the aluminum trim with a no. 25 drill and had to make sure the solera bracket that holds the roller would clear the vent so it could be removed if necessary. I also had to increase the fabric attachment height 2 inches to maintain pitch for adequate water runoff.
Thanks for the help
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Old 12-24-2020, 12:50 PM   #14
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you have a vent on the side where the gutter rail is mounted?
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Old 12-24-2020, 05:30 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wmilbauer;
I have completed the install on the slide out with the refrigerator vent with no problem. I predrilled thru the aluminum trim with a no. 25 drill and had to make sure the solera bracket that holds the roller would clear the vent so it could be removed if necessary. I also had to increase the fabric attachment height 2 inches to maintain pitch for adequate water runoff.
Thanks for the help

Post some pics
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