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Old 11-21-2022, 09:16 PM   #1
Lhinkle114
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How do I stop the water from dripping

Well last night we got into the 20s here so we ran our heater all night to keep things warm but then this morning when I got up I have a drip outside my wet day on my red and blue hose is going down exiting underneath. How can do to stop this from happening again being that the wet day is not heating my concern is future of freezing on these lines. Also, do I need to replace maybe the connections to stop it?
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Old 11-21-2022, 10:12 PM   #2
rohrmann
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When we are in very cold conditions, I place a small electric heater on the floor of the pass through aimed to the space between the door and the left partition of the wet BAY, and have never had anything there freeze. If the valves are damaged, this is what those valves are that they used. https://www.trekwood.com/products/12...Drain-SPP44A-G
If you do replace the valves, this is the tool I have used with excellent results, https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Fasteni...zcF9tdGY&psc=1
Lowes has the crimp clamps or you can also get them on Amazon. All the PEX in these rigs is 1/2".
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Old 11-22-2022, 12:04 PM   #3
R.S.O'Donnell
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Stick your phone up inside the J channel pointed toward the front and take a picture. Mine was missing a panel that allowed cold air to stream right into, and warm air to pour out of, the plumbing area behind the wet bay. I added an insulated panel and re-engineered the low point drain plumbing.

That's the middle jack in the third picture seen from the inside of the wet bay.
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Old 11-22-2022, 12:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rohrmann View Post
When we are in very cold conditions, I place a small electric heater on the floor of the pass through aimed to the space between the door and the left partition of the wet BAY, and have never had anything there freeze. If the valves are damaged, this is what those valves are that they used. https://www.trekwood.com/products/12...Drain-SPP44A-G


If you do replace the valves, this is the tool I have used with excellent results, https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Fasteni...zcF9tdGY&psc=1
Lowes has the crimp clamps or you can also get them on Amazon. All the PEX in these rigs is 1/2".
That's the exact same tool I've got. Couldn't be happier with it!
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Old 11-22-2022, 04:45 PM   #5
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I just use a 75 watt old style incandescent light bulb in a light bulb holder with a cord (like you use in outdoor lighting at Christmas) and let it lay on the floor of the convenience center. Worked well for us for several years when we do camp in winter weather. Two things ... do not use a regular 150 watt heat lamp and don't bother with today's LED's as they do not make any heat.

Also if you use a heated water hose hooked to a regular water spigot that has a rod that shuts the water off underground ... either remove your hose overnight of figure out a way to heat the spigot post because your heated hose will not keep the spigot from freezing ... an acquaintance camping at Branson found that out 3-4 weeks ago during a cold snap. Or ... let the water drip from an indoor faucet all night.
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Old 11-22-2022, 05:19 PM   #6
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Thanks I did not think about that
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Old 11-22-2022, 05:21 PM   #7
Lhinkle114
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Now that’s an idea maybe I could mount a bulb permanently there and turn on as needed
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Old 11-22-2022, 10:23 PM   #8
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Any hardware or home supply will carry 1/2" pex tube and fittings. The clamps use crimper like mentioned here and if you get som 3/4" clamps they make better garden hose clamps when replacing ends then the worm gear clamp. PHOTOS of possible valves and tools from popular web source. I keep a few spare straight and 90į fittings for repairs if needed. Add a shut off valve to your toilet line for when that valve breaks.
Light bulb will heat water bay can plug in at power pedestal with ext. Cord run into bay with water hose.
I keep water in fresh tank and disconnect water hose overnight so spigot don't freeze (also drain hose) .
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Old 11-23-2022, 06:33 AM   #9
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Actually, there are more options available for hooking up the connections to PEX pipes.

I don't know what they are all called, but there are other styles. In my own camper, when I've done changes (no problems, just changes or additions)... I use this style. No tools needed, except something to cut the PEX and a pair of pliers to snug the outer ring. These work very well, but if over tightened, the inside plastic ring that makes the clamp can break very easy. (I know ... I've done that a couple times). Still, these are the easiest to use:



Then, there is this style. No idea what it's called:



And of course, traditional crimping:

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Old 11-23-2022, 07:29 AM   #10
Daryles
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If you are on city water, do you have a water pressure regulator?
Some places have high water pressure causing leaks.
I set my regulator at about 60psi.
The freshwater pump puts out 55psi.
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Old 11-23-2022, 04:23 PM   #11
Lhinkle114
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Great ideas also I did check the pressure at the new campground and it was set at 80 so I dropped back down to 60
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Old 11-24-2022, 02:23 PM   #12
Todd & Mary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lhinkle114 View Post
Great ideas also I did check the pressure at the new campground and it was set at 80 so I dropped back down to 60
50psi is the recommended regulator setting. I also found the massive opening behind the water bay. I stuffed Bubble wrap in to close it up.
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Old 11-25-2022, 12:34 PM   #13
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Just an FYI. The wet bay/convenience center isn’t sealed from the basement. Look closely and you’ll see there is a substantial gap between the baggage door and the left side of the compartment which serves to equalize the temperature pretty well. My issue was the gaping hole I showed in my earlier post.
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Old 11-25-2022, 02:03 PM   #14
Lhinkle114
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Thanks I did not even know there was a gap there I will try to block it on the inside and insulate inside the hole. That way everything should be protected
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Old 11-25-2022, 04:32 PM   #15
R.S.O'Donnell
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On our rig 3121rl the basement is heated so the wet bay stays naturally warm. Once I closed off the gaping hole behind it I never had any issues again. Though our fresh water tank froze and busted at 12F. When I dropped the coroplast to investigate I found that the heating pad had come unglued and was only being held against the tank by one of the support straps. The split is at about the 2/3rds mark so I’m able to use it until I fix or replace it. I’ve decided to use the power source for the pad to power a fan to pump ducted air from the basement to the rear area around the fresh water tank.
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Old 11-25-2022, 06:53 PM   #16
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I put a hole through mine so I could leave my water transfer pump connected that I use when boondocking.
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Old 11-27-2022, 08:05 PM   #17
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I had a close call last week when we got home from the kids.
After I blew out the lines, prior to departure, my dear wife decided she needed to rinse one more thing. She "only turned the pump on for a second". Well I stopped and dumped the tanks at a truck stop, not realizing the pump had charged the system.

Next day, while emptying the trailer, I realized all my faucets were frozen solid. SH*&^@#$%^T. I could not even get air to pass.
2 1/2 hours with a heat gun on all the pipes and faucets and things started to free up. I dodged a BIG bullet on this one.

Just an FYI. It does not take a very long time in freezing temps to make your day go bad.
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Old 11-28-2022, 10:42 AM   #18
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Tool

Quote:
Originally Posted by rohrmann View Post
When we are in very cold conditions, I place a small electric heater on the floor of the pass through aimed to the space between the door and the left partition of the wet BAY, and have never had anything there freeze. If the valves are damaged, this is what those valves are that they used. https://www.trekwood.com/products/12...Drain-SPP44A-G
If you do replace the valves, this is the tool I have used with excellent results, https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Fasteni...zcF9tdGY&psc=1
Lowes has the crimp clamps or you can also get them on Amazon. All the PEX in these rigs is 1/2".
Is that the same tool used to clamp the cable when repairing the cable on a slideout???
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