Drains Over Axle - Montana Owners Club

JackHI · 02-20-2005, 06:52 AM

Wondering if anyone has the drain configuration as I have. As shown in the picture there is about 1 to 2 inches from the bottom of the drain caps to the axle. So far I haven't had any kinking or breaking of the hoses.

Glenn and Lorraine · 02-20-2005, 07:18 AM

That's about what you will find in all Montanas. Same thing applies to the freshwater drain.

The thing that amazes me is that with all the technology we have today they still haven't come up with a drain system where you didn't have to crawl under the rig. At 61 and over 300 pounds that is not an easy task.

kdeiss · 02-20-2005, 09:30 AM

I agree Glen,My Jayco had two valves in the storage compartment the drains than went thru the floor -no caps and no crawling under the unit

sreigle · 02-20-2005, 11:11 AM

Ours are not over the axle like yours but ours is a different model. Right over the axle doesn't seem like good planning. I hope you're quick to get out of the way when you open those valves.

Montana_2230 · 02-20-2005, 11:28 AM

I would say don't hit a big bump in the road as the axle may jam them upwards and break the drains.

Montana_657 · 02-20-2005, 12:53 PM

I really hate it when someone comes up with a "truly stupid" from the factory like that.

I don't suppose there is any chance the dealer will move them up or back a bit to clear that axel??

Montana_2785 · 02-22-2005, 12:09 PM

We had our first official outing with our 2002 3575RL this past weekend. Our low point drains are as depicted in the picture above. I spent a considerable amount of time cussin' these low point drains.

When it's freezing cold outside and you want to winterize you can't get the %@#@% caps off. When you do the $%$% water in the line is FROZEN!

Cuddling up to the tires and/or crawling through sloppy mud is no way to end a weekend.

I'd like to know who the brass plated nitwit is at Keystone who decided that this was a good idea.

Oh, I understand it is cheap and fast to build but it DOESN'T WORK WHEN ITS COLD OUT!!!

And no, winterizing with white stuff instead of pink stuff is not an option at this time

Montana_657 · 02-22-2005, 01:37 PM

Not much help after the fact Eric but I found a cup of hot water...dip the drain into it...heat it up a bit helps to loosen the caps.....apply vise grips with vigor... they open.

You really need a day above freezeing to do this. I pulled the low point drains and moved them into the basement. Sorta extreem but it works. The factory figures your gonna park this thing at the first frost I guess.

Montana_2785 · 02-22-2005, 09:00 PM

Gruffy,

Trust me, come warm weather, SOMETHING will be done about those drains! Your warm water trick is worth keeping in mind for now, but that still won't keep me from hugging a tire or crawling in the muck to GET TO the drains.

My 1990 StarCraft TT had better low point drains than this.... I can't figure out how a rig that retails for almost 5 times as much can be so primitive in this regard

Eric

Montana_657 · 02-23-2005, 01:45 AM

I guess the answer is that no one complains. Other then you and I most people have been silent. When the pipes in the 3670 froze up, I opend the belly, removed about 20 feet from both the hot and cold lines, then reused about 3 feet to run from the kitchen direct into the bathroom. My drains now are rolled up in a corner of the basement.

To drain I just open a basement door and pull them out...drain, the push them back in... no bending required.

Montana_2785 · 02-23-2005, 02:04 AM

I like your idea of moving the drains to the basement. I may do that instead of pursuing the halfbaked ideas I've been noodling on. I want something simple that just works (that doesn't involve crawling!)

Eric

HamRad · 02-23-2005, 06:51 AM

Eric,
Since I live in a part of the country that seldom sees more than a few days of 32 degree weather we simply don't ever "winterize". Needless to say we do NOT ever plan on dragging the Montana into such weather. So I'm no help with this process other than to agree with Gruffy. You need to do this stuff BEFORE it freezes. Good luck. I like the idea of moving the lines into the basement. I'd also like to see an easier "faucet" type end on the drains. Sure would make it easier for us handicapped folks.

HamRad

Montana_2785 · 02-23-2005, 01:03 PM

Wellllllll......... except that we want a 4(ish) season camper. When we get the itch to head out, we want to go. That means being able to (de)winterize during freezing weather.

Besides, we had the entire state park to ourselves

Go ahead. You can call us certifiably insane. We admit it

Eric

sreigle · 02-23-2005, 03:58 PM

Dennis, after seeing RC and Samantha's setup at the rally I changed our drains using parts from Home Depot, same as Dick did. Now just a quarter turn of a handle opens the drain. I think I have a picture around here somewhere but I'm not finding it right now.

Montana_2785 · 02-23-2005, 11:18 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by sreigle

Dennis, after seeing RC and Samantha's setup at the rally I changed our drains using parts from Home Depot, same as Dick did. Now just a quarter turn of a handle opens the drain. I think I have a picture around here somewhere but I'm not finding it right now.

Steve, Dick,

Description please?

Eric

sreigle · 02-24-2005, 06:21 AM

We're headed out for a few hours but when I get back I'll take a picture and post it. The valve is from Home Depot and has a ball valve with handle.

sreigle · 02-24-2005, 11:19 AM

This is the fresh water drain. The low point drains are identical but are currently heat taped and insulated, so you can't see them. Get the valve with the threaded female to match the original male threads. If I recall, it's 1/2 inch but I can't swear to that.

Unscrew the original cap then screw this one on. If you're quick, you can do it without draining the tank and lines (I did). I had to use some pliers on mine to finalize the tightening because it wanted to leak. But it doesn't now. These have been in place since early December and do not leak.

You may also like: