A hitched question

[mopar1]

I called this post "hitched" because of all the different scenarios. I have a 345dbq and the weight sticker says it's maximum weight loaded is 14,200 lbs.
My Reese pro series hitch is rated @ 15,000 lbs max trailer weight and 3750 lbs tongue weight. Here it is:

http://www.etrailer.com/p-30056.htm

I have heard that our campers, depending on options, most likely are overweight from the factory. So are the hitches under rated to be able to handle the extra weight? My hitch creeks and moans when we pull onto uneven ground. I have greased the areas that can be but it's the same story. It's not a safe feeling.
In a former post here I discussed getting an air ride hitch due to the chucking we experienced on a trip down a concrete highway. It made us motion sick. The only thing I haven't done is to install new shocks to rid some of the motion. But the air ride hitch is very expensive so I haven't bought that yet!
The cheapest route would be to add the new heavy duty shocks and get a trail air, morryde, or 5th airborne hitch pin. IF my hitch isn't already overloaded. But when (if) I buy another camper I'll need another air ride hitch.
I don't pull the camper all that much now so it makes it hard to justify spending my hard earned money on something I don't use often.
Decisions, decisions. Anybody have any words of wisdom for me?

[8.1al]

mopar1,
I guarantee your Montana was not overweight from the factory. What has happened since is another story. Unless you have put some really heavy things in there or are fulltiming in it you are probably not close to 14.200. There are so many variables you just can't guess how much you MIGHT weight, you need to weigh it. Our 3575 weighed 11,000 from the factory and we have been living in it for 5 years now and it weighs 14,000 with 1/3 tank of fresh water. Our hitch does some creaking and groaning too, I thing it's just the nature of the beast. If you are having problems with chucking is the nose of your trailer higher than the rear? You might try dropping it a bit. If that doesn't help I would recommend one of the pinboxes you mentioned. It seems to me MorRyde used to offer a 90 day return policy, if you don't like it, bring it back.

[ols1932]

Unless you are planning on full timing or even long timing, I wouldn't even think about spending the money for an air-ride hitch. The Reese, Drawtite, or other hitch rated at 16,000 or over should be sufficient. We have the TrailerSaver hitch only because we full time and wanted to keep the chucking and hard riding to a minimum. Plus, the TrailerSaver or othe air ride type hitches help protect the structure of the rigs.

I only offer this because of our experience over the many years of full timing using the TrailerSaver hitch.

Orv

[sreigle]

I think the overweight from the factory comment you refer to is actually the "empty weight" or something like that, as stated on the sticker. What happens is for each model they use the same weight number. That number includes what the factory says are "standard options," whatever that means. So, if yours has no options it may actually weigh less than the stated empty weight. Or more, if more options. It will NOT weigh more than the GVWR weight, the 14,200 you referenced, as it comes from the factory. However, it is possible to load the rig to where it weighs more than the 14,200.

I would personally not go over the rating of the hitch because I have no idea how they are rated, whether the rating is lower than they tested to or not. I highly recommend when loaded for a trip you take it to a truck scale and get it weighed. I recommend weighing the entire rig, truck and trailer, with all passengers onboard and a full tank of fuel. Tell them you will want a "reweigh", then go drop the trailer in the parking lot and have them weigh the truck with passengers. By telling them you want a reweigh you get both weights but pay for one weighing. By weighing together, then separately, you can figure the weight on the hitch. Please forgive if you already know all this. It is really hard to tell from a post what is known and what is not.

Good luck. You are smart to ask the question.

[HamRad]

Mopar1,
Our trailer has the same weight rating as yours. We have had the trailer since late 2001; it is a 2002 model. In all those years we have never been able to reach the 14,200 pound rating. We do not full time so I'm sure we don't carry as much as those who are full timers. So there is no way the rig came from the factory over its weight rating.

I agree with Charlie and Steve ---- get the trailer weighed. That is the only way you'll know for sure. Once you know what it weighs then you can decide if you need a different hitch.

The 'moaning and groaning' is sort of normal. I know mine makes all kinds of noises. I used to really worry about that but then started listening to other rigs as they arrived or left camp. Most if not all of them were making the same types of noises. As Charlie stated I think they are simply the nature of the beast.

Good luck.

HamRad

[mopar1]

Thanks for the info. It makes me feel better knowing everybody's hitch makes noise.
I am going to get weighed and re-weighed the next time I move it. Which probably will be when I am on the way to the fall rally. Flying J is only 8 miles away.
At work we have 2 2008 F250's. When I jump up and down in the bed trying to make them bounce they really don't move much. My 3500 does bounce up and down some. But I have Firestone air bags with 10psi in them too.
Thanks to your direction I'll just put in shocks and get weighed and see how that goes first before spending more money.

[sreigle]

Mopar1, if you don't mind paying $49 (money well spent in my opinion), when you get to the rally you can have your rig weighed. This weighing will tell you the weight on EACH wheel, not just the total for the trailer plus the truck front axle and truck rear axle. They also will "reweigh" the truck without trailer. If you want to do this, there's info in the rally section. You need to contact the folks doing the weighing in advance. I'm looking forward to knowing exactly how much weight is on each wheel.

Last time we weighed the rig it was on a truck CAT scale at a truck stop. If I recall, I think I paid 8 or 9 bucks. What I don't like about those scales is they don't give weight on each wheel and, on the trailer, not even each axle. The trailer axle weight is the weight of both axles combined. But it's still good to know the overall weight and be able to figure pinweight on the hitch as well as know the weight on each truck axle.

[mopar1]

I thought about that but figured they would not be there when we arrived. We will only be able to stay Friday and Saturday nights.

[Emmel]

On the 09 and 10 models, they have to actually weigh each unit as dry weight and attach that sticker to that unit. I think the industry weight police made all companys do it starting with the 09's.
Mine has the little yellow sticker at the bottom of the screen door with the dry weight for my 3455SA and the gross is in the same place as usual.
They explained this at last years rally in Goshen, I'm not really that smart!!!!

[sreigle]

Steve, that's good to know. I was unaware of that. Thanks.

Mopar1, you mentioned you have airbags. Do you have the incab controls and compressor? When we had airbags on the prior truck and got on those roads giving us the chucking motion I used to reach down and adjust the airbags while motoring down the road. That would moderate the movement considerably. It did not fully eliminate the movement but made it much less uncomfortable.

[mopar1]

No, they are tied together and manually inflated. I air them up till the truck is level and then the camper seems like it is level. I was towing the trailer a tad bit high in the front when it was bouncing so I lowered the hitch at the campground one hole. We traveled back home on the same highway and we were not bouncing quite as bad maybe. But since it was not in the same direction it's hard to tell if it really made a difference.

[Delaine and Lindy]

mopar1, everyone has a different opinion, I will give mine on the air ride hitches. I have owned two Trailair air hitches, and two Trailer Saver air ride hitches. There is no question, the Trailer Saver is the best. The TS is very pricey, but so is your Montana, and it deserves the best ride. Also the TS 3 can be moved from Truck to Truck, it will fit in most bedrails, such as Reese, Valley/Huskey. I also had a Mor/Ryde pin box with the Trailer Saver TS 3 and had no chucking. I now have a Trailer Saver TSB2H 32,000 lb capacity and have a standard 24,000 lb pin box and have no chucking. If you look at the Trailer Saver web site and how the TS works you will see why the name tells it all. Our 5th wheel and pin weight is quite a bit more than yours. Trailer Saver also has good plan if you can pay it off early and no interest. And they will drop ship in 10 days or less. Install take about 10 minutes but you will need help, but I think they now can seperate the hitch to make it easier to install. You Montana will ride like its on Air. Good Luck on your decision. GBY...

[mopar1]

As for air ride hitches, Trailer Saver seems like the most popular and they do have a payment plan. They do have interest on the payment plan though. That would be the only way I would be able to afford one though.
Here is another hitch maker:

http://www.hitchcrafter.com/32ksinglepivotair.htm

I think it looks like it is built heavier than the T.S. and rated to carry more weight but they do not have a payment plan. It is a few $$$ cheaper.
I do not think anybody would argue against the idea that an air ride hitch is the best thing to tow a camper with.