EZ Lube questions

[dieselguy]

BB TX ... Like I mentioned earlier ... I do accept that a few people have had success with the EZ Lube invention, since you're one of them I ask 2-3 questions if I may. You said you would rotate the tire and pump grease in till all the darker grease came out and new red grease took its place. What did that take in your opinion ... 1/4 of a tube ... 1/2 tube ... 3/4 tube per wheel? Slowly turning and watching for only red grease to come out ... about how long did that take you for all 4 wheels? How would one tell if the darker grease is all purged out of the hub if you were using say grey moly grease? Not looking to be a smart aleck ... just curious.

[rohrmann]

Originally Posted by Foldbak

Aside from repacking by hand, I put 1 pump into them once a year. So far no problems. It also depends on the grease you're using. Synthetic lasts longer.

If you are only adding a single pump of grease yearly, you are never getting new grease to the outer bearing, unless you started with a full hub of grease. New grease enters the zerk fitting and travels to the inner bearing and then goes toward the outer bearing, but if there is no grease in the hub, that grease will never get to the outer bearing until the hub is full.

[Foldbak]

I repack by hand every 3000 miles. I only put about 1500 miles a year on my RV. Since I have regular grease I put 1 pump in once a year just to be safe. Been doing this on every trailer for the last 25 years. The first hand pack will get syn grease.

[BB_TX]

Originally Posted by dieselguy

……. …. ….. Not looking to be a smart aleck ... just curious.

When still fairly new I pulled one of the rubber caps to look and noticed some red grease around the zerk. So I always used red grease later when greasing. I followed the Dexter instructions to the letter when greasing. And veeerry slowly hand pumping so as to not put too much pressure on the pump.

It took about 3/4 tube for each wheel. After a few pumps a darker color of red started coming out and continued to for quite some time. Eventually some bright red started coming out and soon it was all bright red. Definite different color. I don’t remember ever timing it, but would guess between 10 and 15 minutes to jack a wheel, grease it, and lower the jack, in no hurry.

By continuously rotating the wheel the new grease was going in all around behind the inner bearing and thusly pushing thru that bearing at each roller as it turned. So it was not only pushing all the old grease out of that bearing, it was also filling the hub evenly and pushing out old grease. That old grease was pushed thru the outer bearing until the darker grease stopped exiting and only new grease coming out. Can I say that ALL the old grease came out? Of course not. But I was convinced that most all, if not all, had been cleared.

Grease guns, even hand pumps, can put out grease under high pressure. With this system, grease enters between the inner bearing and the rear seal. And the grease can only pass thru that bearing at a limited rate. So pumping too fast would cause high pressure behind the bearing, and that same pressure against the seal. I suspect over pressure is the reason so many had grease push passed the seal. It can work well. But also can be easily misused by not being patient enough.

Picture shows cross section of hub and grease flow.

[Foldbak]

Bill is exactly right! You have to apply very slowly or you'll push the seal off it's seat.

[Mark7]

I think EZ Lube is OK, but you need to know what you are doing.

First off, follow the instructions (at least the first part of them). I usually give each about 5 or 6 shots while rotating the wheel once a year.

I DO NOT however fill the hub with grease to get it to come out of the outside bearing like the instructions say. Absolutely no point having the hub full of grease. That's where your seal will fail.

I do take off the hub cap while I do this, not just the rubber plug, and after greasing the inside bearing with the zerk, I use a needle in my grease gun to shoot grease directly into the outside bearing, spin the tire and repeat. I can get the needle around the thrust washer. This is also a great time to check bearing adjustment and listen for rough bearings.

This method saves having to remove the hub and hand grease. Never had a problem with seals or grease on my brake shoes.

[BB_TX]

Originally Posted by Mark7

I think EZ Lube is OK, but you need to know what you are doing.

First off, follow the instructions (at least the first part of them). I usually give each about 5 or 6 shots while rotating the wheel once a year.

I DO NOT however fill the hub with grease to get it to come out of the outside bearing like the instructions say. Absolutely no point having the hub full of grease. That's where your seal will fail.
….
……. .

As you say, you need to know what you are doing.

Keep in mind that every time you pump “5 or 6 shots” of grease in the grease fitting it pushes an equivalent amount of old grease thru the inner bearing and into the hub. So unless you are fully removing the wheel and cleaning all that grease out you are simply slowing filling the hub with old grease. If you have never pulled the wheel then all the grease you have ever pumped in is still in there.

[beeje]

Originally Posted by Foldbak

Aside from repacking by hand, I put 1 pump into them once a year. So far no problems. It also depends on the grease you're using. Synthetic lasts longer.

Just one pump of Grease into any grease zerk on anything is likely to do absolutely nothing

[Old_Salty]

If I recall correctly, the original purpose of the EZ Lube was to displace water from the wheel bearings on boat trailers. Then the concept was carried to other axles.

Another thing not mentioned is always replace the seals when repacking the bearings. It is cheap insurance against grease leaking onto the brake shoes.

With the seal next to the bearing with the EZ Lube, where can the displaced grease go for that bearing? It will push the seal out if the grease is pushed through the bearing. Another aspect is only the outer bearing is visible to see if grease is reaching the bearing, the inner bearing is not visible so you are hoping the grease reaches it. Removing and packing by hand eliminates all these concerns.

[BB_TX]

Originally Posted by Old_Salty

.........

With the seal next to the bearing with the EZ Lube, where can the displaced grease go for that bearing? It will push the seal out if the grease is pushed through the bearing. Another aspect is only the outer bearing is visible to see if grease is reaching the bearing, the inner bearing is not visible so you are hoping the grease reaches it........

If you look at the cut away diagram above, you can see that the grease enters at the rear of the hub between the inner bearing and the rear seal. That grease passes thru the inner bearing into the hub cavity. From there it moves to the outer bearing, thru that bearing, and out the front of the hub. With the wheel turning, the grease passes by each bearing roller. Since the only way grease come out the front of the hub is by passing thru both the inner bearing and the outer bearing, it ensures both bearings get new grease. If the rear seal is good, and not over pressurized during the lubing process, the seal will not leak grease out the rear. Seal being good and not over pressurized is the key IF.


Even though I have tried to explain in detail how the system works, I would still not suggest anyone else use it even though it worked fine for me as designed.


Here is another diagram that shows grease flow.

[Foldbak]

Originally Posted by beeje

Just one pump of Grease into any grease zerk on anything is likely to do absolutely nothing

Having been a mechanic for 19 years I respectfully disagree.

[Reset19]

I will let the picture speak for itself. I followed the direction spinning the wheel while adding a grease. This is the second time. I WILL NEVER USE EZ LUBE again.

[dieselguy]

Old Salty ... don't confuse the EZ lube invention with Bearing Buddies that are common on boat trailers ... they are totally different. EZ Lube is as described above ... Bearing Buddies is a spring and sealed disk inside the dust cover with a grease nipple that preloads a bit of grease against the outer bearing. The EZ lube is meant to displace grease ... the Bearing Buddy does not.

[mlh]

Putting one squeeze of grease in each wheel just proves you don’t need to grease your wheels every year.
Lynwood

[rohrmann]

I've said this before, but I think the removal of the drums to inspect the brakes is the important annual procedure, and repacking the bearings is just a secondary operation that is done.

[AZ Traveler]

Bob is spot on with his comment. If you have disk brakes which are easy to inspect I would back off to packing bearing every 2-3 years.

[AnArky]

Originally Posted by Lee-CI

Darn good advice on greasing the wet bolts! I forgot to mention that line item....

And check to make sure they are tight. I found a couple during my repack 2 weeks ago that were just starting to work loose.

[AnArky]

I was just about to post this question but believe I got my answer. Thanks everyone!

Related to a 5er Montana with Dexter axles. Shortly after we bought a few years ago I replaced the Chinese bearings, races and seals with USA made Timkens. The difference in quality and even weight was obvious.

Annually, I repack by hand the bearings correctly with the specified grease using one of those tools you can connect to a grease gun. This is after properly cleaning and inspecting the bearing, races and hub. Use a new Timken seal each time. Also tighten the hub bolt according to the proper procedure. I learned how to pack a bearing totally by hand years ago but the repacking accessory for a grease gun is easier and I think actually does a better job of pushing all the old grease out.

My question: is it necessary to also apply a grease gun to the hub zert and fill up the inside hub using the EZ Lube system, spin the wheel, until you see grease, etc? I’ve not been doing that.

EZ Lube hubs burned me once years ago so I like the peace of mind of repacking by hand.

[RMcNeal]

Originally Posted by AnArky

I was just about to post this question but believe I got my answer. Thanks everyone!

Related to a 5er Montana with Dexter axles. Shortly after we bought a few years ago I replaced the Chinese bearings, races and seals with USA made Timkens. The difference in quality and even weight was obvious.

Annually, I repack by hand the bearings correctly with the specified grease using one of those tools you can connect to a grease gun. This is after properly cleaning and inspecting the bearing, races and hub. Use a new Timken seal each time. Also tighten the hub bolt according to the proper procedure. I learned how to pack a bearing totally by hand years ago but the repacking accessory for a grease gun is easier and I think actually does a better job of pushing all the old grease out.

My question: is it necessary to also apply a grease gun to the hub zert and fill up the inside hub using the EZ Lube system, spin the wheel, until you see grease, etc? I’ve not been doing that.

EZ Lube hubs burned me once years ago so I like the peace of mind of repacking by hand.

It is absolutely NOT necessary and actually ILL ADVISED. Hand packing is the way to go. Just ignore the zerk fitting for the EZ Lube.

[AZ Traveler]

Originally Posted by AnArky

I was just about to post this question but believe I got my answer. Thanks everyone!

Related to a 5er Montana with Dexter axles. Shortly after we bought a few years ago I replaced the Chinese bearings, races and seals with USA made Timkens. The difference in quality and even weight was obvious.

Annually, I repack by hand the bearings correctly with the specified grease using one of those tools you can connect to a grease gun. This is after properly cleaning and inspecting the bearing, races and hub. Use a new Timken seal each time. Also tighten the hub bolt according to the proper procedure. I learned how to pack a bearing totally by hand years ago but the repacking accessory for a grease gun is easier and I think actually does a better job of pushing all the old grease out.

My question: is it necessary to also apply a grease gun to the hub zert and fill up the inside hub using the EZ Lube system, spin the wheel, until you see grease, etc? I’ve not been doing that.

EZ Lube hubs burned me once years ago so I like the peace of mind of repacking by hand.

Robert,

Grease in the hub does not provide any benefit.