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Old 04-29-2013, 04:37 AM   #1
Mama Hilde
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electric hot water heater not working

So all of a sudden our electric hot water heater quit working. Works fine on propane but not on electric. We have a 2011 3400rl.

Any ideas. I have checked fuses and they all seem ok.
 
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:13 AM   #2
bobsals
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Two things come to mind. Either the heating element burned out, or possibly you may have forgotten to flip the bypass valve back. If the later is true, then the element is probably cooked too. Just a thought.
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:21 AM   #3
CATCRAW
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We had the same thing happen and it was a thermostat that went bad.
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:40 AM   #4
BB_TX
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First try pushing the reset button on the thermostat/hi cutout on the side of the water heater. There will be two there, one for electric and one for propane, just push them both.
If that does not solve the problem then it may well be a burned out heating element.
Depending on your electrical troubleshooting/repair skils it is not a difficult job to check it out and replace it if necessary.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:08 AM   #5
bigskyjimmy
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Had it happen already on my 2012 Bad thermostat ..20 bucks Ebay ..10 min to fix it no big deal
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:25 AM   #6
uhftx
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by uhftx

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Mama Hilde

So all of a sudden our electric hot water heater quit working. Works fine on propane but not on electric. We have a 2011 3400rl.

Any ideas. I have checked fuses and they all seem ok.
Here is the PDF for suburban Hot Water Heaters
www.bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/subsw.pdf

I did a the no no thing for the hot water heater. Turned on the electric element with no water in the tank.

Here is a video that will explain it all


This is an anode Rod replacement video but it shows the black Oval plastic cover to the top left of the anode rod.


The 120V electric element portion of the hot water heater is supplied by a circuit breaker. The fuses are for Twelve volt systems. The hot water heaters do not require 12V for operation except for the Electronic spark.

If you have a volt meter see if you are getting voltage to the element terminals. Under the black plastic cover (oval or circular cover with hold down screws) are two 120V screw terminals. If you measure 120V on one side and only a few volts on the other side referenced to ground then your element is good. DO not do this unless you are comfortable working around electricity. 120V with a current source can be deadly.

A resistance measurement with no power applied is the safest way after you Turn off the circuit breaker and verify with a volt meter the circuit is dead, remove the two screw terminals and measure the elements resistance.

The element should read in the 10-20 ohm range.
http://www.ehow.com/way_5554477_much...r-element.html
A new one is available at Home Depot or Lowes for less than $20.

You will need the thin wall socket for this (at least I did)
http://www.ehow.com/how_7629305_remo...r-element.html
They are available at Lowes and Home depot also for about $15 or less.
Ask the person where it is, they have a faucet set that will NOT work because you need a inch and a half size. Ask me how I know.

It looks like the old motor cycle tool kit, spark plug tool
Put a Phillips screw driver in the holes and twist.
I also had to persuade the Gas supply line to move out of my way.
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:31 PM   #7
mhs4771
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If you have the two switches inside for the WH, one for AC and one for Gas. The AC switch is only a 12 Volt switch with controls a relay mounted on the back of the WH which when activated by the inside switch closes the relay and connects the 115 VAC. Had a problem on our SOB where we lost the AC side and the wire nut at the relay junction box didn't make good contact between the two leads.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:19 AM   #8
TYR
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We are still having the same issue with our water heater.

* Works fine on propane, but was only giving tepid water at best on electric. Water was sort of "warm" but not hot as usual on electric.
* Replaced anode.
* Replaced element.
* Today replaced thermostat. It's been over an hour and the water is not hot yet.
* Switch lights up when turned on.

We're full-timers, so yes, there is and was water in the HWH.

Perplexed. Guess we'll have to call the mobile tech out again unless someone has any other ideas.
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:47 AM   #9
TYR
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Okay, feeling like a complete goofus here . . .

it helps to turn the HWH BACK ON after you've replaced the thermostat . . . . Not the interior wall switch, which was on, but the switch on the HWH itself. Doh!!



We have hot water on the electric side again!! Whoohoo!!

So apparently it was the thermostat. Bingo!
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:41 PM   #10
Art-n-Marge
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"Bingo" gets credit for all the fixes. I see this all the time. Bigskyjimmy and CATCRAW provided the thermostat fixes. MOC cooperation at its best.

For "Mama Hilde" it could still be the heating element needing replacement (make sure to get the same rating), or it might be the toggle switch that turns on the element (check this with an ohmmeter. 0 ohms when on, infinite ohms when off). Both of these have been found to be bad.
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Old 04-30-2013, 03:56 PM   #11
leemedic
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Mama Hilde

So all of a sudden our electric hot water heater quit working. Works fine on propane but not on electric. We have a 2011 3400rl.

Any ideas. I have checked fuses and they all seem ok.
I had one go bad just like this. It was the thermostat on the electric side.
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Old 04-30-2013, 03:58 PM   #12
leemedic
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by TxYellowRose

We are still having the same issue with our water heater.

* Works fine on propane, but was only giving tepid water at best on electric. Water was sort of "warm" but not hot as usual on electric.
* Replaced anode.
* Replaced element.
* Today replaced thermostat. It's been over an hour and the water is not hot yet.
* Switch lights up when turned on.

We're full-timers, so yes, there is and was water in the HWH.

Perplexed. Guess we'll have to call the mobile tech out again unless someone has any other ideas.
Maybe the new thermostat is bad.
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:56 AM   #13
Capt Kidd
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Took the Monty in to Folsom Lake RV yesterday and they found a bad relay and some bad (melted) wiring so we left the Monty and went on home to Chico. They will call us when it is fixed. They had to order a wiring harness and it was too late to call the company yesterday.
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Old 05-02-2013, 01:19 PM   #14
jackel1959
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Don & Gail,
Thanks for the update. At least I feel better the troubleshooting we did at Jackson was valid. I am overnighting at 7 Feathers and will be home tomorrow.

Take care,
Jack
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Old 05-04-2013, 03:03 PM   #15
psomers
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OK I did it. Burned out my electric element. Getting ready for camping trip plugged in for refrigerator and some how the the water heater switch was on with tank drained. My question is what size socket will I need to remove element?
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Old 05-04-2013, 03:38 PM   #16
psomers
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by uhftx

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by uhftx

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Mama Hilde

So all of a sudden our electric hot water heater quit working. Works fine on propane but not on electric. We have a 2011 3400rl.

Any ideas. I have checked fuses and they all seem ok.
Here is the PDF for suburban Hot Water Heaters
www.bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/subsw.pdf

I did a the no no thing for the hot water heater. Turned on the electric element with no water in the tank.

Here is a video that will explain it all


This is an anode Rod replacement video but it shows the black Oval plastic cover to the top left of the anode rod.


The 120V electric element portion of the hot water heater is supplied by a circuit breaker. The fuses are for Twelve volt systems. The hot water heaters do not require 12V for operation except for the Electronic spark.

If you have a volt meter see if you are getting voltage to the element terminals. Under the black plastic cover (oval or circular cover with hold down screws) are two 120V screw terminals. If you measure 120V on one side and only a few volts on the other side referenced to ground then your element is good. DO not do this unless you are comfortable working around electricity. 120V with a current source can be deadly.

A resistance measurement with no power applied is the safest way after you Turn off the circuit breaker and verify with a volt meter the circuit is dead, remove the two screw terminals and measure the elements resistance.

The element should read in the 10-20 ohm range.
http://www.ehow.com/way_5554477_much...r-element.html
A new one is available at Home Depot or Lowes for less than $20.

You will need the thin wall socket for this (at least I did)
http://www.ehow.com/how_7629305_remo...r-element.html
They are available at Lowes and Home depot also for about $15 or less.
Ask the person where it is, they have a faucet set that will NOT work because you need a inch and a half size. Ask me how I know.

It looks like the old motor cycle tool kit, spark plug tool
Put a Phillips screw driver in the holes and twist.
I also had to persuade the Gas supply line to move out of my way.
In your second you tube video I don't understand his ohm readings. Reading a good element should be about 11 ohms. That part I agree but reading an open element you won't read 0.0 ohms but should read infinite. An open should be open or infinite. Maybe he wasn't reading from one end of the element to the other end. Can't figure what he was reading to get 0 ohms.
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:15 AM   #17
troutking
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After replacing the heating element in my 2010 Montana the water was still not heating using electricity so I accessed the back of the water heater and found that one of the two wires connecting the water heater to the electric turn on switch inside the trailer had "arced", i.e. burned through somehow. I replaced the burnt through portion of the wire and reconnected it to the back of the water heater and all is in working order so you might check yours out if all else fails to solve your problem.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:29 AM   #18
psomers
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by psomers

OK I did it. Burned out my electric element. Getting ready for camping trip plugged in for refrigerator and some how the the water heater switch was on with tank drained. My question is what size socket will I need to remove element?
I'll answer the question if any one is interested. 1 1/2" and I just bought a regular socket.
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