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Old 04-23-2011, 03:43 AM   #1
The Weekenders
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Atwood Furnace issues

Earlier this week, my furnace blower will kick on but not ignite with blower then shutting off. Pulled the cover off the outside and was able to get it going by flipping the reset switch on. Will work fine for awhile then back to the original problem. I have pulled off all the wires one by one and sprayed with contact cleaner. Worked again for a while. Before clicking the reset switch, red light blinked 3 times but would quit when wiggling on the two wires to the reset switch.Then it would go to just blinking once and then quit.

Overnite furnace would cycle on but not blow heat and would turn off. This morning I woke to it working and blowing heatand shut off when thermostat was satisfied. Temp dropped five degrees and would not go on. Manually turned on and off switch at thermostat, blower would go but no ignition.
Any ideas? Circuit board, sail switch, bad wires?
 
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Old 04-23-2011, 04:19 AM   #2
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I think I have it narrowed down, the wire that goes from the circuit board to back behind the gas valve (can't exactly see where it hooks up there)may be bad. I just went out and wiggled on just that one and and everything kicked on including the burner. The exhaust is in the way to get where the wire goes by the gas valve.
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Old 04-23-2011, 04:43 AM   #3
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Rick, I just posted this earlier in the week on another thread: "I had a similar problem a few weeks ago where the furnace would not stay lit. It would continue to ignite, burn for a few seconds, then go out. I ignited a burner on the stove to verify I had propane in the tank. I immediately thought I had a furnace problem. Outside temp was about 28. Fired up the electric heater and forgot about it until morning. Worked on problem the next day when it was about 50 outside and could not duplicate the problem. That night, temp about 32, same problem. Then I remembered a post, I think from SReigel, about propane tanks not delivering the same pressure when they get low and temperatures drop. Manually switched the valve over to the full tank and the problem went away. The tank I was running on was about 2/3 empty. It could provide plenty of fuel for the stove, satisfy the switchover valve, but not near enough fuel to satisfy the furnace." I just wonder if your propane tank could be low enough to not satisfy the furnace demand. A few degrees drop in temp. sure affects the pressure supply out of a low propane tank. Jim
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Old 04-23-2011, 05:26 AM   #4
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Jim,
I just filled up the tanks last week but when I wiggled on that one lone wire, everything kicked on as normal. Temps outside right now are 40. Thanks for the info!
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Old 04-23-2011, 07:54 AM   #5
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the wires on the outside have small blue connectors that are the weak point. I replaced all mine with decent ones and used heat shrink to make more water tight. I think Steve Regel had the same problem with his.

Since you can wiggle that one wire to make it work, check to see if there are any crimp connectors on it and if so, replacing them may solve your problem.
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Old 04-24-2011, 06:08 AM   #6
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Narrowed it down to the reset switch and sprayed it down with contact cleaner. Has worked perfectly the last 14 hours.
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Old 04-24-2011, 06:16 AM   #7
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That's why I love this forum! I learn something new every day. Thanks for the post!
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:12 AM   #8
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quote:Originally posted by CORattler

That's why I love this forum! I learn something new every day. Thanks for the post!
It really is a great source. I pick up something new all the time here!
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Old 04-24-2011, 03:04 PM   #9
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Had the same problem with loose connections and was able to solve it by crimping the connection tighter. No further problems since that episode about 3 years ago.
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