New 3400RL

[rgreynolds]

Been living in our new 3400RL now for about a month. It's on the side of our house, but that's another story. Tried to figure out how to inflate the hide-a-bed. Does it inflate automatically or do you need a pump? Also, Anyone have any problems with the remote switch. Ours seems to be one position off. There is no off. When off, the slides come out and when on slides the awning comes out, etc. Also noticed that only one of the cargo keys will open the remote box (the key with CH before the number). Appreciate any feedback.

p.s. retired today after 31 years in the Navy Reserve. Looking forward to getting out full time.

[dsprik]

Robert, I can address the airbed, the other items I will have to defer to others coming on later. The motor and switch are on the back right side of the air matress. Turn it clockwise to inflate and counter clockwise to deflate (has to be plugged in to 110 wall socket). You will know both when full and when fully deflated as the pump will change pitch.

Congrats on the retirement! Enjoy your new life.

[stiles watson]

Yeah, what dsprik said. Ditto.

[trfield58]

Robert,
Not sure what's up with remote selector switch but I would have someone look at it for sure. As far as the key, mine is the same way... Only the key with "CH" in front of it will open the remote hatch door.....

Tim

[Waynem]

Ah! You must be talking about the infamous "CH751" key. Every one of us on this forum, no, let me change that, every one that has a recreational vehicle has a CH751 key. The all open all compartments of the RV. Mine will open yours, and every one else's will open mine and yours, and we can open their compartments.

Also, except for the dead bolt, the door keey will unlock the pull latch on our trailers.

It sort of makes it easy for us if we loose your keys when at a campground.

[dsprik]

What Wayne said about the CH751 key. If something happens, I can just go to my neighbor and ask, "Can I borrow your key?"

[Exnavydiver]

I wasn't happy with my 751 key so I went and got 4 new locks from CW. They were about 4.95 each. They have a different key but they are also all the same number although not 751. When we get home I will find a lock shop and purchase 4 Ace barrel locks. The locks are very easy to replace. You just remove the screw from the end of the lock, then remove the large nut from the base. Push out the old lock barrel and use the washers on the new barrel and insert the new barrel into the hole. Spin the large nut back on and reinstall the latch bar with the screw and you are done. When you purchase the new locks make sure they are the right length, I think mine were 1 1/8 inch or 1 1/4 inch. They are usually in stock at CW. Most lock shops should have that length also.. Dave P.S. one other point needs to be made here also, the regular door latches need to be lubed as some of them get hard to turn. I broke one off completely and had to empty the basement and crawl through and unscrew the latch. A light coating of vaseline or graphite works fine.

[Delaine and Lindy]

We never lock our side compartments except when moving to the next location. The only reason then is to keep them from coming open. I had rather a thief take what he wants than to have a compartment door damaged. A small screwdriver will pop them open with little effort. We have never lost anything so for. GBY.....

rgreyonlds, Thank you for your service to our Country!!!!!

[Waynem]

Do y'all remember the two pronged "echo" fasteners? That is all I need to get into any lock that is the same configuration as the barrel for the 751. I used to have to open desks and cabinets for workers who forgot their keys at home. So, just about any object will open the lock, but I like opening them and then closing them to make it look like I was never there.

Locks are for honest people and "little" prying hands.

[TMerrell]

First, thanks for your service!

I guess your remote problem could be that the switch positions are wired incorrectly. Or, could just be that the switch/knob was put on in the wrong position. Either way, warranty should cover it.

FWIW, I learned something about the remote last week while camping that I'm sure the dealer told me on the PDI, but didn't stick with me. Here's what happened...woke up Sat morning to head to the stick house. Grabbed the key fob to start buttoning her up and hitch up. When I walked outside, I noticed the scare lights were on and I knew they were off when we went to bed. Tried flipping the switch, nothing happened. As I continued hitching up, several neighbors offered advice. I tried disconnecting AC power and flipped the battery disconnect...lights still on. Accused wife of breaking the switch...not a recommended technique! Decided to drive home with the scare lights on. When I got home, I called the dealer and he gave several suggestions...tried them all, including disassembling the light switch, disconnecting the leads to the switch, pulling every DC fuse and turning off every AC breaker...lights still on. Right before I climbed up on the ladder to remove the bulbs I decided to disconnect the battery, lights went off. Then I got a bright idea (only one of the day), maybe I'll hook up the battery again and see what happens. Whoa, scare lights are working again like they are supposed to. Since I had some time, I went to the dealership. To keep this from getting any longer than it already is, after an hour and a half talking to service and "us" deciding we had no idea what was wrong and I would bring it in for warranty work, I decided to go take a look at the new floor plans (wow, impressive). As I was leaving my salesman saw me and asked if I was ready to trade, yet (unit is 3 months old). I said "no" (but they were nice) and explained why I was there. He said, "oh, it's the key fob". The light switch on the key fob (I had not even noticed it was there) turns the scare lights on, overrides the switch inside, and is hard-wired thru the wireless remote to the battery and the wireless does not have to be "on" to activate it. Apparently when I grabbed the key fob to start getting ready to travel I turned on the scare lights!

I'm passing this on in case one of you does not want to spend half a day solving a non-problem (like I did). I never have liked "instruction manuals", maybe I should re-consider?

[Waynem]

That is good information on the key fob.

Also, key fobs are notorious for being "pinched" when in the pocket. A key, coin, or other item can depress a button. I don't know if there is an off/on switch for the fob, but if there isn't, be careful when walking around near the 5er and the fob is in your pocket. You could be activating any one of the controls.

Just something to think about.

[NASCARon]

I have a question. What is the remote and what is it used for?

[MikeM]

The remote control on new units can be used to activate landing gear, rear stabilizers, slides and power awning. It also has a button to turn on/off the scare lights.