Black tank replacement

[Guitarpicr]

I believe our black tank is cracked. On our last outing we were smelling bad odor & dripping coming from under black tank area. After much reading on here about the holding tank problems I am curious if anyone has gone with aftermarket non oem replacement tanks. Also think I will replace the blade dump valve while in there as it doesnt feel right to me, opens sometimes and sometimes not. Any help appreciated. Thanks and Happy camping, Bill

[rohrmann]

We never had a problem with the tank but while inside the first year, we had the black tank drain valve break and was leaking. Had that replaced and no more problem. We did have the grey tank develop a crack on the bottom which I repaired and then installed bracing and support blocking across both the black and grey tanks. Maybe you’ll get lucky and it will just be a broken valve.

[Guitarpicr]

Rohrmann- I hope that is the case. I wont know for a couple weeks when I get some time to open it up. Did u use steel or aluminum or for bracing? Thanks for your help

[rames14]

In 2015 they switched to rotomolded tanks which are much more robust. We replaced our valves with Valterra solid wire valves on our 2015 3160. We had them put on our new one before we took delivery. Good luck.

[milsutter]

We had a rat chew a hole in our black tank in December. Had to have it replaced, & I think my repair guy put in one from the company that sells the originals to Keystone. I ask him about reinforcement under the tank & he told me there was plenty already there.

[rohrmann]

Actually, even with the newer tanks, they still don't support the tanks from underneath. There was already two steel U channels across from frame to frame, and looked to be more for holding up the coroplast, weren't even close to touching the bottom of the tanks. I used those braces in addition to two 1 1/2" angle iron braces, and glued blocking to the tanks where the braces cross, so when the coroplast was reinstalled, the braces were in contact with the blocking. The tank bottoms are sloped 1/2" per foot, so the blocking being about a foot apart, the blocks were 1/2" to 2" thick. In the second photo, you can see where the repair to the crack was made, used a Plasti-mend kit to make the repair. http://new.plasti-mend.com/product/p...ar-repair-kit/

[Montana Man]

Your tank may be rotomolded. If so I doubt if it cracked. If not it would take minor surgery on the brackets to hang better tanks. Or reinforce from below as described. You'll just have to see when you get in there. While in there I would replace any style of cable operated valves and use valves with straight rods going through the frame as they are the most reliable.

[Guitarpicr]

Originally Posted by rohrmann

Actually, even with the newer tanks, they still don't support the tanks from underneath. There was already two steel U channels across from frame to frame, and looked to be more for holding up the coroplast, weren't even close to touching the bottom of the tanks. I used those braces in addition to two 1 1/2" angle iron braces, and glued blocking to the tanks where the braces cross, so when the coroplast was reinstalled, the braces were in contact with the blocking. The tank bottoms are sloped 1/2" per foot, so the blocking being about a foot apart, the blocks were 1/2" to 2" thick. In the second photo, you can see where the repair to the crack was made, used a Plasti-mend kit to make the repair. http://new.plasti-mend.com/product/p...ar-repair-kit/

rohrmann - Are the existing steel angles welded or bolted into place ? Thanks for the pictures also, Now I know what to look for.
Montana Man - Thanks for the info on the cables. Where do u get the straight pieces for the valterra valves & are they adjustable for length or all thread rod ?

[rohrmann]

The braces are screwed to the frame with 1/4” TEK screws. The tanks on our rig are held up with channels that are also TEK screwed up to the supports, so removal would just be removing that channel from the supports and with the plumbing cut loose, the tank would just drop down.

[Montana Man]

The valves and rods can be found at most any decent rv supply store. The rods come in different lengths, not all thread although that could work.

[dfb]

Originally Posted by Guitarpicr

I believe our black tank is cracked. On our last outing we were smelling bad odor & dripping coming from under black tank area. After much reading on here about the holding tank problems I am curious if anyone has gone with aftermarket non oem replacement tanks. Also think I will replace the blade dump valve while in there as it doesnt feel right to me, opens sometimes and sometimes not. Any help appreciated. Thanks and Happy camping, Bill

We have the same rv.. 2015 3610.... Black tank split at the top..Removed tank, used abs,,, reinstalled..

[Lucky23]

Originally Posted by Guitarpicr

Rohrmann- I hope that is the case. I wont know for a couple weeks when I get some time to open it up. Did u use steel or aluminum or for bracing? Thanks for your help

I'm going through this right now.
We had the coupler fittings on both
ends literally break off between 45° fitting
coming off of toilet flange and 45° fitting that goes to pipe coming out of black tank what a mess after we finally discovered it. Quick fix with new 3" pipe and and 2 rubber couplings. Part of problem that I can see is they glue fit all the plumbing hard on it going over all these less than desirable roads.
Now that we're back home I dropped black tank, gray tankI & basement walls also removed furnace duct hoses had to replace the 2 - 2" ones. On to the clean up wiped all wiring & Pex water pipe behind basement walls & underbelly with simple green solution the plug they mounted on the floor for built in vacuum was caked in it replaced it with new one and mounted to wall instead of floor. I'm zip tying all the wire up like it should have been from factory a lot I put in wire loom. Both tanks are back in with rubber couplings on all pipes way more flexible for going over the ruts on roads.
I'm replacing insulation, underlayment & colorplast. One final note check plenum under
furnace and retape crudy factory connection to duct run.
When I finish wiring I'll take pictures and more of everything going back together.

[dfb]

Originally Posted by Guitarpicr

I believe our black tank is cracked. On our last outing we were smelling bad odor & dripping coming from under black tank area. After much reading on here about the holding tank problems I am curious if anyone has gone with aftermarket non oem replacement tanks. Also think I will replace the blade dump valve while in there as it doesnt feel right to me, opens sometimes and sometimes not. Any help appreciated. Thanks and Happy camping, Bill

We have the same rv.. 2015 3610.... Black tank split at the top..Removed tank, used abs,,, reinstalled..we only go 3 days then empty..

[Guitarpicr]

Well, Thanks for all the input. I think I got lucky. Pulled the bottom yesterday & looks like the tanks are ok, both black & gray tank valterra valves were leaking. The bottom bolts & nuts are just about rusted away on both valves. The 3"piping is in a bind & the valves werent mating up squarely as far as I can tell. I ordered 2 new valves and picked up 2- 3" no hub couplings. I think these will give me enough play to square up the piping with the valves. I will post back with some pictures when finished.

[Guitarpicr]

Originally Posted by Lucky23

I'm going through this right now.
We had the coupler fittings on both
ends literally break off between 45° fitting
coming off of toilet flange and 45° fitting that goes to pipe coming out of black tank what a mess after we finally discovered it. Quick fix with new 3" pipe and and 2 rubber couplings. Part of problem that I can see is they glue fit all the plumbing hard on it going over all these less than desirable roads.
Now that we're back home I dropped black tank, gray tankI & basement walls also removed furnace duct hoses had to replace the 2 - 2" ones. On to the clean up wiped all wiring & Pex water pipe behind basement walls & underbelly with simple green solution the plug they mounted on the floor for built in vacuum was caked in it replaced it with new one and mounted to wall instead of floor. I'm zip tying all the wire up like it should have been from factory a lot I put in wire loom. Both tanks are back in with rubber couplings on all pipes way more flexible for going over the ruts on roads.
I'm replacing insulation, underlayment & colorplast. One final note check plenum under
furnace and retape crudy factory connection to duct run.
When I finish wiring I'll take pictures and more of everything going back together.

Lucky 23 - That must have been a mess. Good to see u got it all cleaned up & back together. Could u see where the water was running around the side of the black tank (staining) b4 u removed the tank ? Just curious. Thanks for the pictures also, those are the same tanks I have on mine.

[Guitarpicr]

Originally Posted by dfb

We have the same rv.. 2015 3610.... Black tank split at the top..Removed tank, used abs,,, reinstalled..we only go 3 days then empty..

DFB - Did u just use abs primer & glue on the crack ?

[Lucky23]

Originally Posted by Guitarpicr

Lucky 23 - That must have been a mess. Good to see u got it all cleaned up & back together. Could u see where the water was running around the side of the black tank (staining) b4 u removed the tank ? Just curious. Thanks for the pictures also, those are the same tanks I have on mine.

Guitarpicr,
No mine was a break at both fittings on the pipe coming out of the toilet flange and connecting to pipe coming out of black tank.

[Pugtracker]

Curious to know if your black water cable was solid cable or twisted wire? My was not open and closing, I have a 2014 and they used a twisted cables which failed, I replaced with solid, now working fine.

Originally Posted by Guitarpicr

Well, Thanks for all the input. I think I got lucky. Pulled the bottom yesterday & looks like the tanks are ok, both black & gray tank valterra valves were leaking. The bottom bolts & nuts are just about rusted away on both valves. The 3"piping is in a bind & the valves werent mating up squarely as far as I can tell. I ordered 2 new valves and picked up 2- 3" no hub couplings. I think these will give me enough play to square up the piping with the valves. I will post back with some pictures when finished.

[Guitarpicr]

Originally Posted by Pugtracker

Curious to know if your black water cable was solid cable or twisted wire? My was not open and closing, I have a 2014 and they used a twisted cables which failed, I replaced with solid, now working fine.

Pugtracker- Mine have solid cable. The valves were opening & closing fine once I flushed them for about an hour. Thanks for responding as this will all be useful to others on down the road. I will take some b4 & after pictures when I get the new valves & get ready to install them. Bought a fresh box of rubber gloves & a face shield for the event LOL

[Guitarpicr]

Just a side note- The manufacturers need to know about all these problems with the plumbing and the tanks. I would hope they would address these issues in future models but sometimes planned obsolescence is more profitable in the long run. I hate to think that but I see it in the heating & cooling industry quite often.