Pullrite Installation problems - Montana Owners Club

lightningjack11 · 10-13-2006, 04:34 AM

I think anybody that owns a pullrite should check this link out to make sure your installation is not affected.

http://www.goodsamclub.com/cforum/in...d/18481574.cfm

Without having the hitch, I can't comment so maybe someone can provide a pix of the problem with number of bolts used.

Oh if you can't see the thread I can cut and paste it here.

kwbosch · 10-13-2006, 05:47 AM

When I bought My Monty, the dealer (Mike Thompsons RV in Colton Ca.) installed the Pullrite plate on the pin box for me. Fortunately, I had downloaded the PDF install instructions from pullrites web site. The instructions clearly state that you need a minimum of (10) 1/4" bolts to be safe. When I arrived to pick up the trailer and inspect their work, I found that they had only (2) bolts holding the plate in place.
As usual, if you want it done right, do it yourself.....

Ken

Glenn and Lorraine · 10-13-2006, 06:07 AM

Tom, the Superglide has a special plate that attaches to the pin box. With all other hitchs the pin box pivots on the hitch. Not the case with the Superglide. The special plate fits into the hitch in such a fashion that the pin box does not pivot but instead the hitch itself moves. This is why you will never see a greasy pin or the teflon disc on a Superglide.

You can see the configuration of the plate and the special piece that fits into the hitch.
The yellow arrows point to 3 of the 10 bolts that hold it in place.
The blue and white arrows point to the welds. There are 2 more welds on the opposite side

lightningjack11 · 10-13-2006, 07:47 AM

Thanks Glenn, I think I understand now. Something like this would be easy to check if have this hitch. I hope everybody does. I would hate someone to have an accident due to improper installation.

Looks like a fantastic hitch.

Montana Sky · 10-13-2006, 09:32 AM

My plate has 10 bolts used to install it onto the kingpin, but the shop did not use any welds. They do not weld for the reason of, if you buy a new coach or truck and no longer need the Superglide or you need that plate to be installed on your new coach, welding causes some issues with the removal of the plate.

Glenn and Lorraine · 10-13-2006, 12:35 PM

Dave the only issue would be to grind off the welds. I think after years of use the removing of the 10 Philips head bolts will be an even bigger issue.
Hopefully I will be able to report back on either issue sometime in January or February when I get my new rig.

Montana Sky · 10-13-2006, 03:41 PM

Glenn,
I look forward to your report...

Gonfishin · 10-14-2006, 03:23 AM

Dave, I am not sure how they got the recommended number of bolts in your plate. On mine, there were a limited number of bolts that would fit due to the surface area of the kingpin. Mine has been bolted/welded with the two front supports added to the plate from the kingpin.
Rick

kwbosch · 10-14-2006, 09:16 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Gonfishin

Dave, I am not sure how they got the recommended number of bolts in your plate. On mine, there were a limited number of bolts that would fit due to the surface area of the kingpin. Mine has been bolted/welded with the two front supports added to the plate from the kingpin.
Rick

Rick,

I had to drill all of the remaining holes as the only holes that lined up were the two that Mike Thompson's used. I told the installer that I absolutely did not want the plate welded anywhere. If I ever need to be towed, I can pull the plate off in minutes. I know Pullrite has an expensive option for converting the hitch head for standard towing but my method saved me those extra $$. I used stainless socket flat head screws and so far they are still easy to remove. Even if they freeze up it’s very simple to drill a flat head out.

Ken

lasater · 10-14-2006, 03:08 PM

My pullrite was both bolted and welded by the dealer when I bought it 3 years ago. I have had no problems with it. I was surprised to see the dealer pull out a welding unit but when he explained the different forces acting on the plate, it made sense.

gkbutler · 10-15-2006, 02:43 AM

I installed my pullrite plate on my old Challenger to pull her up to the dealer when we traded for our Monty. I followed the installation directions and snugged up the plate to the king pin. When I backed under the unit, everything looked like it snapped into place. I pulled forward and OOOOOOPs, the trailer slid right out of the hitch and onto my beautiful new truck. We tried and tried to figure out what was wrong. This was at 9:30 and we had an 11:00 closing on the Monty. Nothing we did seemed to work. Finally called the dealer (Collier RV in Rockford, IL) and talked to the salesman and the Service Manager. The service manager said that we wouldn't be able to tow with just the screws installed, something about the plate not sitting correctly.

Long and short of it. We drove to the dealer, and they picked up our Challenger. The service department welded the plate to the kingpin all the way around it. We have no screws holding our plate on. I too was surprised by the welding unit, but when the service manager explained the reasoning behind it ... well, you know.

markwick · 10-15-2006, 06:46 PM

Looks like I have sold my 2955 and will be ordering a new 3075. I need to get the hitch plate off. Mine is not welded but I can't see how to get my arms and wrench inside the box to undo all the bolts. A buddy of mine suggested I just drill them out. Anyone tried this?? It sounds like a good idea, then all I have to do is get replacement nuts and bolts from Pullrite.

kwbosch · 10-16-2006, 05:43 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by markwick

Looks like I have sold my 2955 and will be ordering a new 3075. I need to get the hitch plate off. Mine is not welded but I can't see how to get my arms and wrench inside the box to undo all the bolts. A buddy of mine suggested I just drill them out. Anyone tried this?? It sounds like a good idea, then all I have to do is get replacement nuts and bolts from Pullrite.

Yes, They are 1/4-20 flat head screws. Use a 1/4" drill bit. The only issuie I can see is if they used slotted screws. Most often they'll be phillips or hex heads which center the drill bit like a pilot hole. Just drill deep enough to pop the heads off.

Ken

markwick · 10-19-2006, 05:07 PM

Thanks KWBOSCH - I took the plate off today - I had to use Cobalt drill bits (2 of them @ $9 each!) but it worked well. As soon as I had drilled through the heads they came off right away. There were 10 bolts plus the brackets on the top.

kwbosch · 10-19-2006, 06:11 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by markwick

Thanks KWBOSCH - I took the plate off today - I had to use Cobalt drill bits (2 of them @ $9 each!) but it worked well. As soon as I had drilled through the heads they came off right away. There were 10 bolts plus the brackets on the top.

Peter,

I'm glad it worked for you. If you ever have to drill them out again, use a slow rpm with steady pressure. A standard high speed steel bit will do the job for a lot less money.
For drilling steel, a good rule of thumb is go just fast enough that you can still see the flutes. If they become a blur you’re going too fast.

Ken

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