Leveling blocks

[DQDick]

Actually, I have the same type of thing, but I won't have them with me when I pick up the rig and we're taking it to the campground nextdoor to make sure they got everything done right that we ask them too. As a result I need something to get me thru that that doesn't take up much space, thus my interest in the Andersons. It's a strange situation, but the truck bed is going to be full of other stuff this go round and I know the campground next door to the dealer isn't all that level.

[dallasrules]

Originally Posted by Twopetes

I used to use 2X12 boards, but last year I bought the Anderson leveling wedges and love them. I am a big proponent of keeping the tires solidly on the ground and the Anderson wedges make that easy. Plus they act as wheel chocks at the same time.

Amazon website for Anderson levelers

https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Ander...ag=googhydr-20

I just started to use these, but seems like you have to microadjust. We backed up to level, then put truck in park and everything shifted forward and off level. Tried backing beyond level, shift forward and then chuck. Time will tell if we like it or not.

[DQDick]

Originally Posted by dallasrules

I just started to use these, but seems like you have to microadjust. We backed up to level, then put truck in park and everything shifted forward and off level. Tried backing beyond level, shift forward and then chuck. Time will tell if we like it or not.

I have the same problem unhitching from time to time. I use the emergency brake to keep that from happening and figured I'd have to use it with the Andersons if we get them.

[oeeman]

Originally Posted by DQDick

Ten years ago we added Level-up to our 2010 and quit carrying the lumber yard in our truck. Now we have the HC as well as one with Level-up. We do plan to take the HC to some places that may not be level, but not often, so we're not going to add Level-up to that one. Those of you without a leveling system, what kind of blocks or other things do you find works best? Or should I develop another lumber yard.

I don’t have a leveling system. I use two Anderson wedge rocking levelers, they are great. Put the trailer where I want put blocks in front or back of both tires on one side and move trailer forward or back a few inches and I’m done with side to side , then raise or lower front.and done.

Oeeman

[mtheo]

Yes they do. I had a set for my 2007, 3000RK. Gave them to a friend when I got the new trailer. Sorry I did, could use them on some of the undeveloped spots I go to. 😰

[richfaa]

I understand what you are saying DQ. We do not boondock and most CG are fairly level. We have the leveling system on this 3402 and had it as well on the 06 3400. We use the yellow blocks under the tires and try for the shortest stroke when leveling for added stability. We are extremely lazy and pushing a button to level is great.

[DebNJim B]

Originally Posted by kowbra

Thanks!

Just to make sure I understand; the jacks are now mounted 1 bolt width higher off the ground?
And, what was the reason you did that?

Brad

When we first got our with the level up it seemed the rear four jacks were low. This was born out when we entered our private site that has a dip in it and a rear jack bottomed out. I ended up raising the rear jacks two holes and the mid jacks one hole. I left the front alone as they had plenty of clearance. I use the Anderson blocks and get a very stable set up when level. I also carry four 11.5" square blocks 3" thick (2X12 sandwiched between two pieces of 3/4" exterior plywood) with handles that store nicely in a milk crate. I usually use two under the front jacks and just use the Anderson's in the back. I've yet to use all four wood blocks. Anderson's stack neatly and all fits in the front storage where the battery is.

[jimcol]

I'm a little late to this conversation. I use the Anderson leveling wedge. Really like them. Don't take much space, don't add much weight, and easy to use. Only down side we have found, they tend to sink/dig in on soft soil or really loose gravel. Our spot in Fla. last year was sandy loamy soil covered with small gravel. The rig kept burying the leveler. We made it work but took more effort. Despite the couple of sites that have presented us problems we are really happy with the product. Added bonus, you can also use them solo to change a tire.

[DebNJim B]

Originally Posted by jimcol

I'm a little late to this conversation. I use the Anderson leveling wedge. Really like them. Don't take much space, don't add much weight, and easy to use. Only down side we have found, they tend to sink/dig in on soft soil or really loose gravel. Our spot in Fla. last year was sandy loamy soil covered with small gravel. The rig kept burying the leveler. We made it work but took more effort. Despite the couple of sites that have presented us problems we are really happy with the product. Added bonus, you can also use them solo to change a tire.

That's the problem I had with our first 5er. On sandy site they kept sinking in. Now our Monty has the level up system and we didn't use the wedges anymore. Sold them at a garage sale.

[beeje]

IMHO the Anderson wedges are a great product but not really meant for a large heavy fifth wheel. Nor meant for a tandem axle trailer, unless you use two sets of them. Putting all the weight of one side of the trailer up on one tire will surly overload it.

[jsb5717]

I actually have the Camco Curved Levelers. I'm not sure what the rating is for the Andersen but the Camco's are rated for trailers up to 30k lbs. I use them only to get close on a side to side level and the auto leveling will take over from there, but that way I'm not floating the tires in the air. Clearly you would need to lift only one side of the trailer to accomplish this. I've only used both at the same time but wouldn't worry about using just one to get some lift based on their rating. I can see, though, that these wedges, or any blocks, could be subject to sinking into a soft setting and would require monitoring and adjusting.

[suny07]

Hi,

sorry for digging up this thread but did not want to start a new one.

Anderson Level Wedges: I just got them an I have serious issues to get the 5th wheel unhitched.
In fact once on the anderson wedges I can not unhitch as soon as I am of the wedges same spot no issue.
I do not think the angel on the 5th wheel hitch os too excessive but its a problem.

Any thoughts from the community?

Thanks,
Mike

[rohrmann]

Originally Posted by suny07

Hi,

sorry for digging up this thread but did not want to start a new one.

Anderson Level Wedges: I just got them an I have serious issues to get the 5th wheel unhitched.
In fact once on the anderson wedges I can not unhitch as soon as I am of the wedges same spot no issue.
I do not think the angel on the 5th wheel hitch os too excessive but its a problem.

Any thoughts from the community?

Thanks,
Mike

What do you have for a hitch in the truck? With some hitches, once you have landed the front landing jacks, you need to back up slightly so the jaws of the hitch can open up. We have a Pullrite Superglide hitch that has a wrap around jaw, and almost every time, the truck needs to be moved to release the jaw.

[phillyg]

I carry two sets of Lego blocks but I've rarely had to use them.

[suny07]

Originally Posted by rohrmann

What do you have for a hitch in the truck? With some hitches, once you have landed the front landing jacks, you need to back up slightly so the jaws of the hitch can open up. We have a Pullrite Superglide hitch that has a wrap around jaw, and almost every time, the truck needs to be moved to release the jaw.

Its the B&W Companion.

[Lee-CI]

When I was running the B&W Companion, I only saw this issue one time. Lowered the front landing gear, taking the weight off of the hitch until there was just a touch of daylight showing between the plates, chocked the wheels on the trailer well, fully engaged the brake controller with the manual slider, then gently backed up the truck to release all tension on the B&W jaws. Afterward the hitch released easily.

[BB_TX]

I first had a Pullrite Super 5th hitch and later a Reese Elite hitch, both having the wrap around latching jaw. A very secure latching mechanism. But if there was pressure on the jaw it was often hard to release. It simply became part of my routine to bump back into the hitch after chocking the wheels and lowering the jacks. Then they would easily release.

[jsb5717]

I've found it easiest to release the hitch jaws by pulling the bar earlier rather than later.

Once the trailer is where it's going to sit, and kind of leveled side to side as needed, I chock the wheels then lower the front jacks. Once they contact the ground with just a little lift (hardly any...I just want to know there's weight on the jacks) I pull the hitch bar and release the jaws. Then I lift the trailer to clear the hitch and pull out.

If you lift the trailer to clear the hitch before releasing the jaws you increase the pin pressure on them. Then, as stated, you have to back up a little to release pressure before pulling the bar.

Both methods work well, I just found the first one usually saves a step.