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07-29-2016, 04:35 PM
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#1
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Established Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Spokane Valley
Posts: 43
M.O.C. #1425
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HELP. Can't Get Water To Enter Coach!
While working on a holding tank leak issue I needed water in my grey tank. Hooked up my house hose and .... behold, Nothing!
I can put water into the fresh holding tank and then my pump system supplies water just fine. All systems are go.
But darn if I can not get water to enter the coach water system thru the hose fitting. Has anyone else run into this issue? What the heck!
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FINAL UPDATE:::
Several years ago I froze a line to the outside shower head which is located on the wall just above the street water inlet. I chose to abandon the shower and simply caped both the hot and cold lines. The cold line T's off of the water inlet line (hint hint). I had some difficulty is getting the cap to seal well so I pumped a bunch of silicone caulk into the line and cap. It stopped the leak and I went on my way.
Well,
The now setup finger of caulk worked its way down the pipe and blocked the cold water inlet T fitting where the outside water feeds into the coach. Funny what sometimes comes back to haunt us.
Thanks to every one that took the time to reply.
John
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07-29-2016, 05:08 PM
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#2
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Fowler
Posts: 414
M.O.C. #12748
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My 2013 has a valve in the convenience center which directs the flow of water to either the system or the fresh water fill position. Don't know if that function is on your 04.
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07-29-2016, 05:36 PM
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#3
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Established Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Spokane Valley
Posts: 43
M.O.C. #1425
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Thanks.
The only valve that I know of is the valve located behind the water heater which diverts water during winterizing so the fluid does not enter the heater.
I do not know of a valve that would act to shut off my main water source.
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07-29-2016, 08:38 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Omaha
Posts: 6,794
M.O.C. #7560
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John, I'm assuming you have the water fill at the back of the unit, either drivers side or in the very back. Those filler connections have a back flow valve and sometimes they get stuck. Seems to me we had that problem on our 2004 2980 and I had to take the filler tube out and either replace it or pop the back flow valve back in to get the water to flow. I had to take it loose from the inside where you have the ramped up floor in the corner. The cover is held down by screws that go through the carpet. Feel around on the carpet that covers it and you will feel the screws. Once the screws are out you will see it is a simple removal by disconnecting the pipe from the inlet then going outside and taking the inlet out. Let us know if this helps or not and if you get it fixed.
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07-30-2016, 08:47 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
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If what rondo is saying guides you to solve the issue, great. If not, then a little more detail about where you are connecting city water to, etc would help you understand your trailer. I once hooked up my hose to my winterizing inlet instead of city water inlet...didn't get me any water to the rig. Then I woke up and noticed what I did. John
__________________
2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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07-30-2016, 09:49 AM
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#6
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Established Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Spokane Valley
Posts: 43
M.O.C. #1425
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First, I appreciate you'all taking the time to assist.
The water source is my house hose. Pressure is real good so I use a pressure reducer to 45psi. Like most of us I have been doing this for years. In fact, that is what is most confusing about this. I have changed nothing on the coach or my hook up routine.
On my coach the water service panel is on the drivers side. It is the standard style with fresh tank fill & over flow and pressure hose inlet all under one cover.
This is what I have done:
..I have had this panel completely out.
..I have run water thru the hose fitting.
..I have checked the back flow valve inside the hose fitting. It moves freely.
(This I know since I had this valve completely apart on the bench.)
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07-30-2016, 12:53 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 2,727
M.O.C. #7992
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I ran into a similar issue several years ago. Was using a regular white RV supply hose from camping world. The inside of the hose was collapsing when put under pressure. Changed hose and everything worked fine. Water flowed good when not under pressure. Dissected the defective hose to find the crimp on the supply end of the hose had separated allowing the inner liner of the hose to collapse.
__________________
2006 3000RK
2009 Ram 2500
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07-30-2016, 05:03 PM
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#8
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Established Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Spokane Valley
Posts: 43
M.O.C. #1425
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Not the cotton picking hose .
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07-31-2016, 12:39 AM
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#9
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: SE
Posts: 478
M.O.C. #17167
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Is the water pump switch or or off?
When you remove the hose from the city connection, does water run back out of the filler connection if you remove the hose?
Grading at straws here....
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07-31-2016, 05:56 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Sequim
Posts: 553
M.O.C. #17176
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You might want to check the screen at your spigots in bathroom and kitchen they maybe clogged. I had one clog in bathroom couldn't get water to sink , unscrewed screen it had a lot of gunk cleaned it put back on worked fine.
__________________
Dan & Sandy Huhn
2016 Montana 3720 2015 Chevy 3500 SWD Duro Max
Prev 2012 High Country 313RE 2012 Chevy 2500 DMax
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07-31-2016, 06:32 AM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
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Did they have low point drains back then? If so, turn one on to see if you get flow. I can't really see any of the internal water lines plugging solid, so I would try forcing air from a disconnected faucet to a low point drain or city water in...without that silly check installed. Of course, if there is any way for mud wasps or leaf cutter wasps to get into that fresh water inlet, could have built the clog. Stumped here john... john
__________________
2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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07-31-2016, 09:31 AM
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#12
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Established Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Spokane Valley
Posts: 43
M.O.C. #1425
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Lets see...
..Its not the house hose. Water flows great.
..Faucets are not blocked.
..Pump is off. Never have tested to see if street water will work if the pump is on.
..Have removed the drain plugs and drained the fresh tank and the coach lines. The coach lines run when the pump is on.
..Valve is in place. The valve in the hose inlet is designed to close (push out) from water pressure behind it. This keeps the water from running back out when the hose is removed or if the hose is shut off and pressure removed. It is referred to as a anti-back flow valve. This valve can be seen when you look into the hose fitting. Actually you can see the little white tip of it. If you push hard enough you can open the valve and water will shoot out.
NOTE: If you do this you stand a good chance of blowing the rubber O ring off of it's seat and possibly blowing the retaining clip out of the fitting. Watch for it! Yup, just ask me how I know this little fact. There is actually a YouTube video on this little issue. The repair if easy, just be aware.
I agree that it is a possibility I have some type of a complete pipe blockage. I have thought of trying to blow air thru the pipes from a faucet.
I would love to see a schematic of how the pump and hose lines are plumbed together as they must be since there is only one pipe run to the faucets.
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08-06-2016, 07:59 PM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 4,774
M.O.C. #12947
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I had a leak occur a couple months ago, with water overflowing from the fresh fill vent near the rear of the rig. After some thought, I decided it must be the check valve inside the water pump that had failed, allowing city water to flow past the pump into the fresh water tank. I purchased a check valve along with PEX fittings to cut into the line going toward the tank from the pump. I decided to make a diagram of the plumbing behind the convenience center. The first photo is of the plumbing behind the convenience center on our rig, the next is the plumbing diagram. The blue line in the valve drawings is the normal flow. Hope this helps.
__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402RL
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC 4WD
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