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05-13-2015, 04:27 AM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: on the road
Posts: 237
M.O.C. #12992
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Brake wiring
I am trying to replace the 14 gauge wire for the brakes with 10 because I changed to 7000 pound axle and the brakes are very weak, even after over 500 miles and 2 adjustments. I have the belly pan loose enough to work with, but the problem is from the pin box to above the propane tank on the street side. It is the overhang area of the fifth wheel. I was going to cut the old wires at the pin box and tie the new wires to them and pull the new wires through. But, the old wires will not pull. Does anyone have nay ideas??
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05-13-2015, 05:27 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Bern
Posts: 4,295
M.O.C. #311
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I used a fiberglass pull stick to run my Video cable for my rear camera. You have to find the correct/good place and use some force. Good luck. Safe travels.
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05-13-2015, 06:19 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
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Wow... the fiberglass under the overhang on mine has about 8 screws to hold it up tight. If this is your case as well, I would loosen/remove all in the area and try to pull again. Doubt that you could get any safe lube into the area to help lessen drag...so that isn't going to help in any way. I guess I would wire in a parallel run of ten gauge wire externally and gorilla taped in place as a means to test whether you will gain any improvement first. If you do, then struggle to pull the new wire. Hope this. Helps in some way. John
__________________
2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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05-13-2015, 08:43 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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The wires are wire tied together along the way under your front overhang. You'll find absolutely no differnce in running bigger gauge wire (been there done that) but it's your call. Thousands of campers are on the road with the wimpy 14 gauge wire with adequate stopping power.
Just a question ... you did put the RH assemblies on the curb side and the LH assemblies on the street side?
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05-13-2015, 12:29 PM
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#5
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Established Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: phoenix
Posts: 33
M.O.C. #12202
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I also changed mine to 10awg. Absolutely no difference.
I would look into a disc conversion,I have not yet. But I imagine the disc would be so much better, especially in an emergency stop.
Somebody here has also mentioned to change the magnets out to an 8 k .?
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05-13-2015, 02:55 PM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Sebring
Posts: 3,669
M.O.C. #9969
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If you change to Disc Brakes, you'll never go back to electric drums.
__________________
Michelle & Ann
2018 Chevy 3500HD High Country DRW 4X4 Crew Cab w/Duramax/Allison, Formally 2010 Montana 2955RL, Now Loaded 2016 SOB, Mor/ryde IS, Disc Brakes & Pin Box, Comfort Ride Hitch, Sailun 17.5 Tires.
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05-13-2015, 04:46 PM
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#7
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: on the road
Posts: 237
M.O.C. #12992
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I found the problem. Whoever installed the wires used some kind of black adhesive to hold the wires in place. It seems to me he got carried away with it , but I am not familiar with the construction methods.
Diesel guy,
You will never know how much that worried me. I have had a drum off twice just to make sure in my own mind I had them right. The actuating arm is in front of the axle.
The reason I am rewiring is because I had 11.3 volts at the plug and 8.2 volts at the brake on the curb side. Plus, the wires had a reddish look to them like they had been overheated. Dexter recommends 10 gauge throughout the whole system, but then they use 14 gauge coming from the magnets.
I am at a total loss as to what the problem could be. The 6000 pound brakes worked, but I was not happy with them. If this does not work, the actuator is all that is left.
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05-14-2015, 08:29 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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Jim ... just so we are on the same page ... here's is aphoto of a curbside brake. As you say actuator arm ahead of axle.
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05-14-2015, 04:42 PM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 4,774
M.O.C. #12947
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Also notice the little sticker that says RIGHT
__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402RL
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC 4WD
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05-14-2015, 06:16 PM
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#10
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: on the road
Posts: 237
M.O.C. #12992
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I did some research on it because I did not know if the guy that was calling the sides "right" and "left" was standing in front looking back or in the rear looking forward. I would much rather they would call it "curb side" or "street side" like dieselguy. Way less confusion. But, as long as the actuator arm is in front of the axle, it is right.
I finished up today. 10 gauge from the pin box to in between the axles--12 gauge to a splitting point above each street side axle-- then 14 through the axle and to each magnet. I did not want to fight getting 12 gauge through the small hole in the axles. I will let the forum know tomorrow how it works out. I have high hopes and great expectations.
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05-16-2015, 06:28 AM
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#11
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: on the road
Posts: 237
M.O.C. #12992
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My hopes were dashed. Still very weak. Back to the drawing board.
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05-16-2015, 08:33 AM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Waterford
Posts: 3,693
M.O.C. #7500
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by halfwright
My hopes were dashed. Still very weak. Back to the drawing board.
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The best way to improve braking is to add hydraulic lines - connected to disc brakes.
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