We were there in 2011.
The park is divided more or less by a highway. We spent all of our time in the "southern" part of the park, which we found to be gorgeous. Horses, buffalo, prairie dogs, trees, rock formations, the sky, everything was something we'd go back to see in a heartbeat.
We camped in Medora, the only campground in town; crowded and noisy, camping on grass, which, with rain, gets muddy fast. Medora is interesting. We enjoyed the pitchfork barbeque and the outdoor play - not to be missed.
I'm a big fan of Teddy Roosevelt, so seeing his cabin was a treat, especially after seeing his estate, Sagamore Hill, on Long Island, NY.
Sorry I can't give you a report on the "northern" part of the park.
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