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10-24-2022, 08:25 PM
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#1
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Established Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Niceville
Posts: 43
M.O.C. #29201
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Galley Grey Tank Valve Repair
While out on the road, I noticed the handle for my galley grey tank was missing. I used a pair of channel locks to open & close the valve while we were traveling, but now that we're home, I wanted to replace the handle. Opening the coroplast I saw that the body of the gate valve, around the stem has broken (see red circles in pic). Can the cap at the stem be replaced without having to remove the whole valve? Will the valve disassemble without having to cut the glued pipes? What is the make and part number for this valve?
Thanks!!
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Craig & Sharon, Niceville, FL
2015 Montana 3582RL
2015 Ford F-350 DRW, 6.7 diesel, Anderson Ultimate Connection Gooseneck Hitch
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10-24-2022, 11:20 PM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Victor
Posts: 940
M.O.C. #1709
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Craig you hopefully can remove the four bolts and spread the pipes apart enough to pull the old valve out and replace with a new one. It should be a 3 inch valve. I would replace it with a valttera valve. Spelling wrong. When I replaced mine I had to cut the pipe in order to get it out. I used a rubber coupling with hose clamps to fix it. Good luck. Just looked at your valve. I think it’s a 11/2” valve.
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10-25-2022, 09:54 AM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Carmichael - CA
Posts: 7,689
M.O.C. #4831
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I think you would be fine just leaving it as is for the time being. You could try applying some glue to the collar piece that broke loose and slide it back into place. There is no seal or anything to leak around that part of the rod. The sealing part is further inside and wrapped by the four bolts.
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Carl (n Susan)
There is more to life than fuel mileage.
2012 Montana 3700RL Big Sky Package towed by a 2015 Ford F350 6.7L PSD 4WD CC LWB
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10-28-2022, 02:31 PM
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#4
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Established Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Niceville
Posts: 43
M.O.C. #29201
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I opted to try to repair rather than replace the valve body. I glued the collar back onto the body, then covered it with gorilla tape to make sure it stayed in place.
Being tired of the T handle pulling at odd angles, I built a guide tube to keep it in line with the gate valve shaft. I took a piece of 3/4" pvc, about 7-8" long, but short enough that the T-handle shaft extended past it. I notched the end of the pvc pipe to fit over the gate valve body. Using a neoprene washer, with an inside diameter large enough for the T-handle shaft. I taped it in the other end of the pvc pipe to keep the T-handle centered. Sliding the T-handle through the washer and pvc pipe, I then screwed it onto the gate valve shaft and slid the pipe onto the gate valve body. I zip-tied the pvc pipe to the (hydraulic?) pipe running under the chasis to keep everything in line and snug.
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Craig & Sharon, Niceville, FL
2015 Montana 3582RL
2015 Ford F-350 DRW, 6.7 diesel, Anderson Ultimate Connection Gooseneck Hitch
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10-29-2022, 04:33 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 2,236
M.O.C. #25165
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Neat idea. The pipe is your propane line. Hydraulics use the orange and black high pressure hoses like you can see at the jacks.
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Robert & Diana McNeal
2019 Montana Legacy 3791RD 20th Anniversary Edition
2014 F350 4x4 6.7L SRW
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11-09-2022, 07:58 PM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 710
M.O.C. #6958
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nice mod
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Bill and Lisa Rearick
2023 Grand Design Reflection 367BHS
2020 GMC SIERRA 2500 Denali, 8 ft bed, SRW, Duramax Diesel w/10 speed Alison Transmission.
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11-09-2022, 10:20 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Mesa az
Posts: 3,038
M.O.C. #5651
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I too have trouble with the T handle. I think either my valve was installed sloppily or it is poorly designed. On my rig, the valve angle where the pull rod exits actually points to the I frame running in the picture. So the pull rod has to be bent at an angle and pulled out weirdly to operate.
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Tom and Gail
2013 Mountaineer 362
2012 Silverado 2500
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