Here's some photos of the install of the
Splendide WD2100XC combo washer dryer into my
2011 Keystone Montana Mountaineer 347THT fifth wheel.
This is the closet in the bedroom, behind the nose. This is the intended location, you can see the plumbing on the right wall, the sticker says to drill the hole for the vent on this wall. The closet was not deep enough for the washer-dryer and the dryer vent, so the back of the closet had to be cut out. It's very thin, maybe 1/4", I cut it with an oscillating multi-tool. Behind the back wall of the closet is just the nose. I could not cut the hole for the dryer vent to go outside behind the closet wall because then the vent would come out the nose! So the vent would have to go from behind the washer-dryer, into the nose, then come back into the closet and out the side.
Here's where I masked off the area where the 4" hole for the vent would come out. If you look hard, you'll see a tiny hole in the blue tape. That was my first pilot hole for the center of the 4" vent. It ended up being too close to the nose, so I moved it over another 2.5" or so. It's OK, because the vent flange and vent shield covered up the pilot hole.
The 4" hole for the dryer vent is cut! I drilled a series of shallow tiny holes along the diameter of the hole from the inside to probe that I was not drilling into anything important! Note the first pilot hole to the right. It got covered up by the vent flange and vent shield cover.
I thought it would be interesting to see what the wall is made of. This is the drilled out core.
Here is the hookup of the supply lines and the drain. Make sure you secure your drain hose. I screwed it into the box and also zip-tied it to the hot-water valve. This was important -- I used 90-degree elbow adapters when connecting the supply lines to the valves. There's so little space between the right side of the washer-dryer and the plumbing wall that having the hoses attached straight in wouldn't work. The 90-degree adapters are just your standard Camco adapter you'd use for attaching water hoses. I put plumbers tape around the threads as an extra measure, but it's not really necessary because all the connections have rubber gaskets.
I built this stand to save my back, and to make the job of removing the washer-dryer to service it a one-man operation. Thanks to forum member whutfles for this suggestion. I designed this heavy-duty stand in SketchUp and built it out of 2x3 lumber and 3/4" plywood. The dimensions are 24" wide by 22" long, the dimensions of the washer-dryer footprint. The height is 18" to match the height to the floor of the cabinet. The idea is to be able to slide the washer-dryer out from the cabinet to the stand and back. The stand worked great, and I'll go as far to say IT IS NECESSARY!
The washer-dryer finally installed. I installed as far left as I could, to give me working room to reach the valves and drain. Also needed space for the dryer vent hose as it comes back in from the nose back into the cabinet then goes out the side. Note the 2 brackets that go around the feet of the washer-dryer and secure it to the floor of the cabinet.
The washer-dryer stand I built doubles as a coffee table! I'm going to sand, stain, and seal it. I like it when stuff has a dual-purpose!