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First problem is that anyone is looking at the shipping weight. After you tow that beast home it will NEVER weigh what it was when it is shipped to the dealer. Hopefully you never get the the GVWR or at least stay under it, but you should base the weight your truck is towing by the GVWR, NOT the shipping weight. You'll be putting gear, kitchen stuff, and all kinds of items you want to keep in the trailer - including tools, gadgets and all kinds of things that will ADD weight. This is why one never looks at the shipping weight. There will also be occasions that you tow with full tanks and that adds heavy weight real fast. The shipping weight is what sales people use to sell the rig to unsuspecting owners. Weight problems are not sales issues, they are owner issues.
Please post the GVWR and then we can respond with a better answer. We'll also need to know what your truck currently weighs, especially at the rear axle, but these days, a 3/4 ton will be overloaded. Then you get to decide if you want to be overloaded or not. Some people are, I know I'm not. It goes beyond liability. If you have a mishap you could be responsible for everything because of neglect. You are responsible for maintaining weights and since I know mishaps can occur under normal conditions why push it?
The best thing to do is look at the GVWR and calculate 15% to 25% of this weight will be on the rear axle. When you consider that the same engine and transmissions are used in many weight classes of trucks, why then don't all trucks have the same weight ratings? It's because there are many other factors besides a badass motor and proven transmission that tows the weight of a trailer or a load. There's wheels, tires, axles, brakes, u-joints, drive shaft, differential, etc., etc., etc. and just cuz one of these is a beast (like the engine and trans and maybe the tires and wheels) doesn't mean the all of them are strong enough.
Welcome to the forum, blondegirl named "Art", from a brunette and gray haired (or what's left of it) guy named "Art".
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