Thread: Water Hammering
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Old 03-20-2014, 03:08 PM   #5
paulinbaja
Montana Fan
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Chico
Posts: 269
M.O.C. #14041
To quiet the pump I used a piece of wall paneling about a foot square. Mounted old shag carpeting to both sides of the panel and then used water hose pieces about 1 inch long to mount the pump to one side of the carpeted panel. The hose pieces were "shock mounts" and the carpet allowed the panel to accept the vibrations from the pump without passing them on to the floor. Just set the assembly on the floor of your utility compartment. Also using the soft flexible hose, about a foot on each, the input and output, side of the pump contributes wonders to eliminating the noise. Note the pump mounted to one side (not the end) of the 1" hose pieces and the other side of the hose piece to the carpet board.

Using a "Captive Air Tank" is always a good idea. Sometimes known as a "burp tank" these allow the pump to start and stop much less often. The captive air tanks also soften the water flow at the faucets. They don't reduce pressure they just even-it-out. Allowing the pump to start and stop less often the pump and pressure switch will last MUCH longer.

Captive air tank can be easily made of a piece of 4" PVC about a foot long. Cap both ends with the proper PVC cap. Then drill into the center of the cap at one end of the pipe and install a connector and coupling for connecting to the water system. Connect using a "TEE" in the water line. This type of captive air tank will work best if it is installed vertically with the connector end at the bottom. The commercial type can usually be mounted in any direction.

Note the newer style pumps with the by=pass are much quieter than the old pumps. Do not use a captive air tank with this type of pump.
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