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There are a handful of us on the MOC that have hydraulic experience … I’m not here to bump heads with one another because our hydraulic backgrounds and experiences are all different. What works and has worked for me may not follow over to someone else. Hydraulic fluid for all intents and purposes cannot be compressed. No more than a hyd jack innards weighs, it shouldn’t take 2000 psi of pressure to keep it in place assuming there are no air pockets and no slow leaks past a seal or solenoid valve. I have gotten people a little farther down the road by my bumping theory more than once when in the end they had a piston seal issue. You build up pressure on say the retract side of the cylinder by laying on the retract button building up say 1800+ psi. Once you let off the button, that pressure can and will seep by a bad piston seal and in essence extend the cylinder while trying to equalize pressure on both sides of the piston. It happens … I’ve seen it. I’ve suggested the bumping of the hydraulic motor to in essence equalize pressures on both sides of the piston to keep the cylinder from walking out to get people a little farther down the road till adequate diagnostics can be more easily performed. I don’t know the exact issue here and haven’t said I did. Don’t promote the thought that I’m blowing smoke out my rear pockets. I may not have my head on straight here as I’m visualizing the valve on a front landing gear leg … If he has turned the solenoid valve setscrew clockwise in an effort to tighten it per previous conversation, hasn’t he manually opened that valve as if he were going to do a drill powered move? Does he not have to close that valve by turning the set screw counterclockwise to close the valve and put the system back in to standard operation?
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