This is my experience using Micro Air Easy Starts. I don't suspect the Soft Start RV is any different.
I have been in Tucson AZ all year at a completely off grid location. Daily temps since May have been between 100°F - 113°F (38°C-45°C) at my location (I have a weather station on site). My RV is in direct AZ sunlight....no shade 100% of the day.
Without getting too geeky, I would say under extreme temperatures they can not handle the amperage pull, aka RLA, but if you are in a mid 80s to mid 90s temp range your results may vary.
AC has been at the forefront of priorities this year. It's been an educating process. I use a balance of Solar system and generator power. I have also been testing various alternative AC units in combination with the two power generation methods. I have also been testing, at the same time, three different generator setups ranging in power from 30 amps to 50 amps.
What I have learned is that the factory AC units are horribly inefficient. Most of us focus on how we can utilize them in an efficient manner, but it's near impossible in extreme temperatures like AZ without throwing a lot of money $$$$ at the issue. The AC units are not required to meet SEER ratings like residential units. Even if they did meet a SEER rating say of 10, you will lose 30%-40% of that in the ducting/delivery of the air, as our RV units typically have a 5" attic space and the ducting is 1/8" styrofoam. Attic temps can be as high as 120° F (49°C)
Alternatively, I have tested two other style of AC units. I have a 12,000 BTU portable AC unit and a 6,000 BTU window unit.
The
12,000 BTU portable AC unit runs at 17 amps, but does have a starting surge up to 32 amps ( no easy start on it) So it doesn't work well because it can trip a 30 amp generator's power. The factory 13.5k BTU Dometic AC runs at 16-17 amps and does not have a starting surge with the Micro Air Easy Start, so in this case it's a better solution. My 13.5k unit is not ducted, so it's air output is more efficient than the ducted units (but it's LOUDER). The 15k BTU factory ducted Dometic AC runs at 15 Amps (Yes it uses less amps than the 13.5k BTU). The problem using the 15k unit is the loss of efficiency through the ducting. You can see that 15 amps + 16-17 amps is > 30 amps. Very close, but no cigar.
The
6,000 BTU window unit is actually very good has a SEER rating of 11.2. It uses 7 amps and keeps the main cabin cool in the high 70s on SLA battery/solar power only. It's not as loud as the ductless Dometic factory AC units, but not as quiet as the ducted factory AC. The biggest downside is that you can't keep it installed in the window while your rolling down the road!
The last AC type that I want try is a mini split system, so I am considering purchasing one that uses the ceiling cassettes vs the wall mounted head units (
like this). The obvious downside to them is placing the compressor unit. They are most often set on the ground, but I did watch a factory RV video where they had placed it in the garage area and vented it out the wall.
IMO, ACs innovation is going to be one of the next big changes in the RV world. Manufacturers know how horribly inefficient the current Dometic/Coleman units are, and the solution for decades has been to move your RV to locations with cooler temps or to purchases aftermarket equipment to help temper the inefficiencies. Or invest in HUGE lithium battery banks ($$$$$). The current units coming out with pre installed softstarts are simply a low cost solution to kick the can down the road a few more years.
I think the best value solution is to replace the AC units with more efficient units and rethink their placement.
OP: Best way to verify it they will work prior to purchase is use your EMS, to determine the amp pulls of each AC unit. They can vary by manufacturer. If the two units use less than 15 amps each and the power pedestal is putting out a true 30 amps then your good to go.