New rig, tire shread

[214skier]

Brought brand new 367FL home last week. Headed out over the mountain pass to eastern Washington last night on our first trip. We had a tire completely fail coming just over Steven's Pass last night.

As some of you may know, we have had a chronic fish-tail problem since leaving the dealership. As quick summary--yes, we are high (by 2") in the front. We attempted to lower the hitch point to bring the rig level; however, it has caused the over hang to connect with the truck bed.

We naively assumed we could operate the LIpert electric jacks like our former hydraulic jacks--but could not figure out how to independently operate to lift the rig. The Ford F350 jack was not strong enough to lift the rig--so we called for road side assistance.

I don't know if we have axle problems--but we are taking the rig to the tire center today and replacing all four tires with something with greater substance. Open to any and all advice here.

[rohrmann]

You got lucky at least that it doesn’t appear you suffered any damage to the rig. If it were me, I’d find a Les Schwab tire center and have them install a set of Sailuns on your rig. I see you have 8 lug wheels, so you may be able to run them at 110 psi, but if not, run them at the highest pressure the wheels allow. If you are able to run 110 psi, you will need metal valve stems. I would also get the 285/85R16 which is a little taller than the 285/80R16 so you will gain a little more height to help with the tail dragging low.

[Texan]

It looks like you dodged a bullet by not having any damage to your rv. Be sure you buy g-rated tires and if they are available i would buy the Sailun 235x85x16 tires. This will raise the rv 1/2'' if you have the 235x80x16 tires and you certainly need a little extra height at the axles. If your tire dealer doesn't have the Sailun tires then you could order them from Simple tire and have them delivered to your dealer. I am sure there are other good G-rated tires out there but the Sailun tires are by far the most popular out there at a reasonable price. Good luck.

[BB_TX]

From what little I can see of the tread, it doesn't appear to have unusual wear. Do you have a TPMS? If not, it is very possible (likely?) that you picked up a nail/screw/etc and had a leak in the tire and ran the low tire until it came apart.

I arrived at a site years ago to find a rear tire on my truck low (no TPMS on that truck). Aired it up with a portable compressor and took to shop. Had a steel rod about 1/4" diameter and about 8' long stuck in the tire! Many more miles and that one would have come apart.

[Montana Man]

Good advice on the tires. I would be looking at how the fishtailing and the blown tire are connected. Look at all the suspension components for proper actuation. U bolts are known to be loose from the factory. Anything loose can cause grief. Keep chipping away you'll figure it out.

[214skier]

From what little I can see of the tread, it doesn't appear to have unusual wear. Do you have a TPMS? If not, it is very possible (likely?) that you picked up a nail/screw/etc and had a leak in the tire and ran the low tire until it came apart.

I arrived at a site years ago to find a rear tire on my truck low (no TPMS on that truck). Aired it up with a portable compressor and took to shop. Had a steel rod about 1/4" diameter and about 8' long stuck in the tire! Many more miles and that one would have come apart.

I just inspected the tire in daylight. There is NO screw or nail in the tread. The tires are brand new (as the rig is too). This is our first trip.

[214skier]

It looks like you dodged a bullet by not having any damage to your rv. Be sure you buy g-rated tires and if they are available i would buy the Sailun 235x85x16 tires. This will raise the rv 1/2'' if you have the 235x80x16 tires and you certainly need a little extra height at the axles. If your tire dealer doesn't have the Sailun tires then you could order them from Simple tire and have them delivered to your dealer. I am sure there are other good G-rated tires out there but the Sailun tires are by far the most popular out there at a reasonable price. Good luck.

Good advice. Our consultant at Les Schwab recommends the same thing.

[prndl]

You got lucky at least that it doesn’t appear you suffered any damage to the rig. If it were me, I’d find a Les Schwab tire center and have them install a set of Sailuns on your rig. I see you have 8 lug wheels, so you may be able to run them at 110 psi, but if not, run them at the highest pressure the wheels allow. If you are able to run 110 psi, you will need metal valve stems. I would also get the 285/85R16 which is a little taller than the 285/80R16 so you will gain a little more height to help with the tail dragging low.

:iagree: Ditto. Sailun 285/85/16

[214skier]

:iagree: Ditto. Sailun 285/85/16

Update: Sailun tires ordered at Les Schwab, rig goes up at 3pm today to be installed.

Having Les Schwab check all U-Bolts and activation of suspension to ensure everything in working order regarding "fish-tail" issues.

[BB_TX]

I just inspected the tire in daylight. There is NO screw or nail in the tread. The tires are brand new (as the rig is too). This is our first trip.
Even if not a nail this time, I would still recommend a TPMS. Even new tires can pick up a nail. And valve stems sometimes leak. Might save you another similar occurrence.

That tire just has the look of a run flat rather than a blowout.

[BandBmalin]

I second, or third, the TPMS add! My son-in-law had a blowout that shredded and we were laying under his travel trailer at the campground trying to reattach enough wires for him to have AC and lights in the dark. I purchased for my rig before our next trip and the peace of mind is WONDERFUL!!

[RMcNeal]

I agree on the Sailuns and the TPMS. Just curious...Was the wheel hot at all? Could there have been little to no grease in the bearings? I have heard of that happening before and causing a blowout from the heat. Just wondering out loud.

[mazboy]

first question, are these G rated tires? if so were you running them at 100-110psi? the pic seems to show that they are not G614 GY. Saliun maybe?



as for the fishtail, that is a new one on me?

[sourdough]

Skier, can the folks at the tire store look at that tire and maybe get a feel for the cause of failure?

Your issue is odd to me, and I think the new tires may very well remedy the situation (I hope), but I had an issue once that this reminds me of. It was not with a trailer but I did buy a new car (back in 90) with Firestone tires on it. Within the first several months I had to replace them all due to the outer tread carcass separating from the inner tire...it was unbelievable. A tire shop pulled one of them and the tread would just literally move around on the tire....and it did cause some funky feeling driving. Doubt that is your issue but might be something to look into. It if was it might ease your mind about the other issues. After losing an OEM tire in short order on another trailer I don't trust any of them.

[rohrmann]

Update: Sailun tires ordered at Les Schwab, rig goes up at 3pm today to be installed.

Having Les Schwab check all U-Bolts and activation of suspension to ensure everything in working order regarding "fish-tail" issues.


When they check the torque of the nuts on the U-bolts, make sure the rig is down with the weight on the tires and the springs fully supporting the rig. When the springs were attached to the axles by Dexter, they were torqued with the springs curved like when unloaded. Once the trailer weight is on the springs and they are straightened out, the nuts will be loose, and for some reason, the Montana plant does not check the torque on the nuts. Have them torque the nuts to 70 ft lbs.

[CalandLinda]

IMO changing tires is not going to solve the problem. Your OE tires have/had plenty of reserves if properly inflated to the placard recommendations.

Whoever installed the hitch should have informed you they couldn't balance the trailer correctly. Make them fix it.

NOTE: If you're convinced the failed tire was the problem, save it and file a NHTSA report. There is enough of it left for them to pinpoint the cause of the failure.

[prndl]

Would sure like to have an update on how things went with the new tires, sway etc.

[214skier]

Cautiously optimistic. We towed home 200 miles over Stevens Pass today. Sure seems less squarely and more solid underway and over bumps. The tires gave us at least 1” or lift overall. Feeling better on this issue.

Negotiating with Keystone to compensate us for the factory tires.

[CalandLinda]

Negotiating with Keystone to compensate us for the factory tires.

IMO Keystone has no responsibility to compensate anything for failed tires, unless, the tires were the wrong size, the recommended cold inflation pressures on the certification label were incorrect or the tires have a recall history.

Reasoning; to just do the act on good faith would open the door for that action on all trailers built by them.

I'll be surprised if Keystone doesn't cancel all portions of their suspension warranty on your trailer for your action to go with larger sized tires, unless the larger size was offered as an option.

Bottom line: If proven to be a tire problem, your displeasure needs to be directed at the tire manufacturer.

With that much tire remaining from the failure, any well trained tire forensic expert can pinpoint the cause. Everything else is just conjecture.

[bshgto]

Fishtailing, now blown tire must be nerve racking for you and the wife not knowing if your in for more surprises on the next trip. If it were me , not telling you what to do or anything but I would cut Keystone and the dealer ( which will likely blame you ) loose and go to scales and weigh the pin and both axles independently and take this information to a professional truck trailer shop and have them do a comprehensive axle and frame inspection AFTER you put the proven Sailun tires on it. Pay for the fix and forget about it. You`ll get to use your camper for the rest of the season instead of leaving it at the dealer for months and will know you have an unbiased opinion and repair. Just the cost of ownership.

[432bartman]

First of all, glad you guys are ok, and second that the tire did not shred the fender/sliding of your trailer. Glad you're going with the Sailuns, and get a tire monitoring system. We have the TST system and it works perfect.

[Ram Montana High Country]

I just inspected the tire in daylight. There is NO screw or nail in the tread. The tires are brand new (as the rig is too). This is our first trip.

Not sure from the looks of tire that the failure point evidence would still be there - IMHO - Good Luck on finding answers. Ditto going to 85 vs 80 size Sailun mentioned above.

[214skier]

Thank you for all the great advice here--we will take all of it.

Yes, I plan to do all the work / investigation to the trailer and its issues independent of the dealer / Keystone. I will not loose camping time to have the rig sit. We already spent an additional day at the dealer (they are located 5 hours from our home) and they could not determine the issue.

Yes, a friend of mine is a forensic engineer who specializes in tire issues. So, yes, I will be strongly supported in my discussions with the dealer / manufacturer.

Having said that, my view is no different than if the refrigerator fails--the tires are failing and should receive some compensation or replacement value for that fail. Not sure why tires delaminating after less than 600 miles of usage would be treated different than a piece of molding that might all off.

[dieselguy]

I'm not wanting to start a side discussion on people's ideas of jacking points as most will not be swayed in their beliefs .... but .... had you placed your F350 truck jack under the axle in-between the spring UBolts instead of trying to jack the entire side of your fiver up ... it would have got the job done without waiting however long for roadside assistance. There are a good number of us that have changed tires this way over our years of RVing without issue. I've proved years ago with a load cell that at that point on the axle you are lifting considerably less than 3000#. Yeah, I know the manufacturer says NEVER lift a trailer by the axle, but many of us understand why that is a CYA blanket statement by a manufacturer as some unknowing people will try and place the jack right in the center of the axle tube and try and lift everything up which I will agree will most likely ruin an axle tube. :popcorn:

[214skier]

I'm not wanting to start a side discussion on people's ideas of jacking points as most will not be swayed in their beliefs .... but .... had you placed your F350 truck jack under the axle in-between the spring UBolts instead of trying to jack the entire side of your fiver up ... it would have got the job done without waiting however long for roadside assistance. There are a good number of us that have changed tires this way over our years of RVing without issue. I've proved years ago with a load cell that at that point on the axle you are lifting considerably less than 3000#. Yeah, I know the manufacturer says NEVER lift a trailer by the axle, but many of us understand why that is a CYA blanket statement by a manufacturer as some unknowing people will try and place the jack right in the center of the axle tube and try and lift everything up which I will agree will most likely ruin an axle tube. :popcorn:

This is actually a good comment given our experience. We naively assumed the electric jack system would operate like our former hydraulic system (I had a flat once and was able to easily lift and change with no issues); however, getting to manual and isolating the rear or starboard jacks simultaneously was not obvious at the time (I understand this statement is going to open up a whole flurry of comments).

The F350 jack would not lift at the frame--I was hesitant to lift from the axle.

The roadside assistance team hand a 12 ton bottle jack that they did lift from the axle and changed the tire.

[dieselguy]

My way isn't the only way by any means, but as I stated earlier ... several years ago some of us were cussing and discussing methods of changing a tire on the MOC. I had access to a load cell that I put in-between the axle and my jack and lifted a tire up about 1" which creates ample room to change a tire. The load cell reading was somewhere around #2600 ... your trailer is a bit heavier, so yours would probably read a couple hundred more. Trying to lift the fiver up by the frame is probably pushing a #5000+ lift plus all the creaks and groans the fiver makes during that process. I agree ... the Level Up hydraulic systems and maybe the Ground Control electric systems if you can figure out how ... are surely handy. For the future ... if your truck jack won't lift @3000# ... I guess it isn't the one that should have come with your truck.

PS I carry a 4 ton bottle jack (just because that is what I already had) and it raises my fivers wheel up with minimal effort placed in-between the spring Ubolts.

[214skier]

My way isn't the only way by any means, but as I stated earlier ... several years ago some of us were cussing and discussing methods of changing a tire on the MOC. I had access to a load cell that I put in-between the axle and my jack and lifted a tire up about 1" which creates ample room to change a tire. The load cell reading was somewhere around #2600 ... your trailer is a bit heavier, so yours would probably read a couple hundred more. Trying to lift the fiver up by the frame is probably pushing a #5000+ lift plus all the creaks and groans the fiver makes during that process. I agree ... the Level Up hydraulic systems and maybe the Ground Control electric systems if you can figure out how ... are surely handy. For the future ... if your truck jack won't lift @3000# ... I guess it isn't the one that should have come with your truck.

PS I carry a 4 ton bottle jack (just because that is what I already had) and it raises my fivers wheel up with minimal effort placed in-between the spring Ubolts.

The OEM F350 jack is a 4,000# rating--clearly not enough lifting from frame, but would have worked @ axle. In any case the 5er has a 12 ton jack on board now in addition to ground control 3.0.

[dieselguy]

Sounds like you are well set for any future roadside dilemmas. The foremost reason I was putting numbers out earlier is that some trailer owners don't think things thru and have in their mind if you have a #13000 fiver, when you jack to change a tire ... you're lifting #13000. They fail to reason that there is weight sitting on the other 3 (5 on a triple axle) tires as well as what pin weight your truck is absorbing.

[PSFORD99]

Sounds like you are well set for any future roadside dilemmas. The foremost reason I was putting numbers out earlier is that some trailer owners don't think things thru and have in their mind if you have a #13000 fiver, when you jack to change a tire ... you're lifting #13000. They fail to reason that there is weight sitting on the other 3 (5 on a triple axle) tires as well as what pin weight your truck is absorbing.


First thing I did was check to see if my truck jack would lift a tire to change, as you said I always use the U-bolt to jack a tire up. Second thing I did was put a 12 ton bottle jack in the basement of the fifth wheel, a bit more convenient if needed .

What I am most curious about , and I may have missed it, but what brand of tire did the OP have, and was it a new Montana fifth wheel. The tire sure didn't look like a G rated steel belted tire . I was under the impression thats what came on the new ones G rated ??

On edit, I do see its new Montana :facepalm:

[Carl n Susan]

What I am most curious about , and I may have missed it, but what brand of tire did the OP have, and was it a new Montana fifth wheel. The tire sure didn't look like a G rated steel belted tire . I was under the impression thats what came on the new ones G rated ??

On edit, I do see its new Montana :facepalm:
IT appears to be a new Montana High Country which comes with Trailer King tires, not Sailuns

[PSFORD99]

IT appears to be a new Montana High Country which comes with Trailer King tires, not Sailuns

Thanks. I have to assume they are just the E rated tires then ??

[masterdrago]

Everyone on these forums recommends using a TPMS. I got the non-flowthru version when we got our 5r in Oct of 2017. I wouldn't leave home without them. In cold weather, the low pressure alarm might need adjusting. A good kit can be found at https://tsttruck.com/507-series-4-flow-thru-sensor-tpms-systemtst-507-ft-4.html and make sure to get metal valve stems installed.

[PSFORD99]

Everyone on these forums recommends using a TPMS. I got the non-flowthru version when we got our 5r in Oct of 2017. I wouldn't leave home without them. In cold weather, the low pressure alarm might need adjusting. A good kit can be found at https://tsttruck.com/507-series-4-flow-thru-sensor-tpms-systemtst-507-ft-4.html and make sure to get metal valve stems installed.


Same here ,took ONE tire issue to make a believer out of me. :thumbsup:

[sourdough]

IT appears to be a new Montana High Country which comes with Trailer King tires, not Sailuns



Ours came with Ranier LRF tires. They said they were an "improvement" over TKs and the like. Some folks even said they had good luck with them but they came off and the Sailuns (LRG) went on before it came off the lot.

[PSFORD99]

Ours came with Ranier LRF tires. They said they were an "improvement" over TKs and the like. Some folks even said they had good luck with them but they came off and the Sailuns (LRG) went on before it came off the lot.


Same here ,but I did go 400 miles with my fingers crossed :D

[214skier]

First thing I did was check to see if my truck jack would lift a tire to change, as you said I always use the U-bolt to jack a tire up. Second thing I did was put a 12 ton bottle jack in the basement of the fifth wheel, a bit more convenient if needed .

What I am most curious about , and I may have missed it, but what brand of tire did the OP have, and was it a new Montana fifth wheel. The tire sure didn't look like a G rated steel belted tire . I was under the impression thats what came on the new ones G rated ??

On edit, I do see its new Montana :facepalm:

The 2020 Montana HC came with Rainier ST type F.

We replaced them with Geostar Type G, 14 ply. the Salinus were not available at the Les Schwab we went to; however, the insisted the Geostar were comparable.

[214skier]

Everyone on these forums recommends using a TPMS. I got the non-flowthru version when we got our 5r in Oct of 2017. I wouldn't leave home without them. In cold weather, the low pressure alarm might need adjusting. A good kit can be found at https://tsttruck.com/507-series-4-flow-thru-sensor-tpms-systemtst-507-ft-4.html and make sure to get metal valve stems installed.

I am having the Ford OEM TMPS and back up camera installed.

[214skier]

Ours came with Ranier LRF tires. They said they were an "improvement" over TKs and the like. Some folks even said they had good luck with them but they came off and the Sailuns (LRG) went on before it came off the lot.

Our originals were Rainier ST's and they were extremely spongy.

[214skier]

Thanks. I have to assume they are just the E rated tires then ??

F rated

[Carl n Susan]

Ours came with Ranier LRF tires. They said they were an "improvement" over TKs and the like. Some folks even said they had good luck with them but they came off and the Sailuns (LRG) went on before it came off the lot.
Obviously Montana is installing whatever they have on hand at the moment. The two new MHC's I looked at yesterday on the dealers lot had the Trailer Kings. Maybe it depends on what day it is.

[CalandLinda]

Obviously Montana is installing whatever they have on hand at the moment. The two new MHC's I looked at yesterday on the dealers lot had the Trailer Kings. Maybe it depends on what day it is.

Just a note: No where in the FMVSS or USTMA standards and regulations are tire brands mentioned. The key words are Designated Size - Load Capacity and Appropriate.

Any RV trailer that is sold new MUST have tires that are the same designated size as what is depicted on the vehicle certification label. For the dealer to do otherwise is a direct violation of safety standards and the trailer will be subject to recall for such an infraction.

[Bad Moon]

Did anyone mention checking the wheel alignment? The OPs trailer was pulled from the manufacturer in Indiana all the way to Washington. Bad roads and indifferent delivery guys can easily mess up your alignment, and dealers don’t check alignment, and usually can’t fix out-of-alignment.

[lightsout]

Cautiously optimistic. We towed home 200 miles over Stevens Pass today. Sure seems less squarely and more solid underway and over bumps. The tires gave us at least 1” or lift overall. Feeling better on this issue.

Negotiating with Keystone to compensate us for the factory tires.

Keep in mind you are now likely over 13'6" Washington has a few bridges at 13'6"

My stock height 3791 is 13'-5.25" I will not lift under any circumstances...

Is your Truck lifted by chance should net be too hard to get a ford 350 level with any Montana

[CalandLinda]

Keep in mind you are now likely over 13'6" Washington has a few bridges at 13'6"

My stock height 3791 is 13'-5.25" I will not lift under any circumstances...

Is your Truck lifted by chance should net be too hard to get a ford 350 level with any Montana

https://www.rvtripwizard.com/rv-info/state-road-laws

[sourdough]

Obviously Montana is installing whatever they have on hand at the moment. The two new MHC's I looked at yesterday on the dealers lot had the Trailer Kings. Maybe it depends on what day it is.


LOL! Ain't that the truth! I think that extends to struts, screws, appliances; well, you name it!

If that's not bad enough I started comparing trailers at the end of last year before purchasing. I thought I would bounce trailers in FL against my dealer in TX. I never knew there were so many differences between E and W rv's. Floorplans were basically the same (more or less) but things like types of slides, tires etc. were far more different that I would have imagined. (bought in TX).

[D A Busman]

Even if not a nail this time, I would still recommend a TPMS. Even new tires can pick up a nail. And valve stems sometimes leak. Might save you another similar occurrence.

That tire just has the look of a run flat rather than a blowout.

These are a must have, so much peace of mind. Second year with one and will never tow without one again. If I might add... when buying a TPMS get the flow through sensors, they are so much easier to adjust pressure through than ones you have to remove.

[prndl]

Obviously Montana is installing whatever they have on hand at the moment. The two new MHC's I looked at yesterday on the dealers lot had the Trailer Kings. Maybe it depends on what day it is.

Maybe the dealers are taking the Sailuns off the new trailers and exchanging them for tires on trailers being sold to make the sale. ergo, new trailer with lousy tires.:whistling:

[Carl n Susan]

The 2020 Montana HC came with Rainier ST type F.

We replaced them with Geostar Type G, 14 ply. the Salinus were not available at the Les Schwab we went to; however, the insisted the Geostar were comparable.

Negotiating with Keystone to compensate us for the factory tires.
The tires gave us at least 1” or lift overall. Feeling better on this issue.In reality, the new tires only raised your RV less than 1/2".
The Rainer ST Type F have a diameter of 30.8"
Ref: https://www.tredittire.com/tire/rainier-st/

The Geeostar Type G (an 85 aspect ration v. the 80 of Geostar) has a diameter of 31.7"
Ref: https://www.bestusedtires.com/geostar-g574-st-235-85r16-132-127l-g-14-ply-trailer-tire/

The .045" increase is not enough height difference to concern you.

[CaptnJohn]

first question, are these G rated tires? if so were you running them at 100-110psi? the pic seems to show that they are not G614 GY. Saliun maybe?



as for the fishtail, that is a new one on me?

M HC arrive with Rainier LR F tires. If it were a G rated it would more likely be a GY G614 as they don't have near as good reputation of the Sailun

[allenclme]

This is actually a good comment given our experience. We naively assumed the electric jack system would operate like our former hydraulic system (I had a flat once and was able to easily lift and change with no issues); however, getting to manual and isolating the rear or starboard jacks simultaneously was not obvious at the time (I understand this statement is going to open up a whole flurry of comments).

The F350 jack would not lift at the frame--I was hesitant to lift from the axle.

The roadside assistance team hand a 12 ton bottle jack that they did lift from the axle and changed the tire.

First - I'm glad there were no injuries or damage to the skirt. My 3820FK actually has jack points identified on the frame, where it has extra angle iron in the flange where the leaf springs mount. I had to buy a bottle jack and to get enough hight to raise the frame to get the tire off the ground as my 3500 HD jack wasn't tall enough. I cut up a 12 x 12 board and made a jack base that gives me about 14" of height above the ground. I did this as the owners manual says not to use the hydraulic jacks to lift the vehicle.

[allenclme]

I am having the Ford OEM TMPS and back up camera installed.

I"m having the GMC TPMS and cameras (inside and back) installed. You all have just made a believer out of me

[phillyg]

Trailer King failures have been anecdotally reported for years, so probably good you are rid of them.

[Jcroome]

When our tire blew out it did major damage to the passenger side of the RV. Had it fixed and then blew out a tire on the driver side and did damage to the RV again. RV wasn't but 1-2 years old. Finally understood the tires that come on the RV are junk.
You were very lucky.

[Walt & Vicki]

Glad there is no damage to you or your rig. It looks like the remaining tire has been against a curb, and if so, the sidewall of the blown tire could have been pinched a little tighter on the same curb to create sidewall damage. Just a thought. And I agree, TPMS always.

[Texan]

https://www.rvtripwizard.com/rv-info/state-road-laws
Raising the rv at the axles will not raise the overall height of the rv. My rv was 13.5'' before i had the rv raised 3'' at Mor-Ryde to level rv with truck and 13.5'' after at the front a/c which is the highest point on our rv's. I also have the 235x85x16 tires. When you raise at the axles you are just pivoting the rv up in the rear and not in the front. The only way you are going to raise the front is through height adjustment of the hitch which some people do for bed clearance. Everyone needs to know the height and weight of there rv.

[214skier]

Raising the rv at the axles will not raise the overall height of the rv. My rv was 13.5'' before i had the rv raised 3'' at Mor-Ryde to level rv with truck and 13.5'' after at the front a/c which is the highest point on our rv's. I also have the 235x85x16 tires. When you raise at the axles you are just pivoting the rv up in the rear and not in the front. The only way you are going to raise the front is through height adjustment of the hitch which some people do for bed clearance. Everyone needs to know the height and weight of there rv.

Can you tell me more about this, " before i had the rv raised 3'' at Mor-Ryde"

We are about 3" low in the rear.

[CalandLinda]

Finally understood the tires that come on the RV are junk.

Here is an explanation for early tire failure on your trailer. It’s my opinion.

Correct me if any of this is wrong. Your trailer has 7000# axles, vehicle certified at 6850#. By doing that, Keystone was allowed to use tires rated at 3420# ea.. Therein lies the problem. Almost all 5th wheel trailers are going to have an entire axle or a single wheel position overloaded, especially when fully loaded. Without any or very little load capacity reserves, tires will be overloaded, heat excessively and fail. Add in the speed factor and the degrading of the tire is accelerated.

[PSFORD99]

The 2020 Montana HC came with Rainier ST type F.

We replaced them with Geostar Type G, 14 ply. the Salinus were not available at the Les Schwab we went to; however, the insisted the Geostar were comparable.

Hopefully they will work out okay. I was skeptical of the Westlakes I had, an all steel tire, same as the Sailun, but switched to Sailuns anyway.

[Texan]

Can you tell me more about this, " before i had the rv raised 3'' at Mor-Ryde"

We are about 3" low in the rear.

I had the independent suspension installed at Mor-Ryde. Mor-Ryde measures your rv to see how much it needs to be raised to be level with your truck. Some trucks need maybe more or less. Most trucks pulling these rv's today are 4wd so they are taller than the 2wd trucks that most people had 15 or 20 years ago. If you are 3'' low in the rear then that could very well cause the rear axle and rear tires to be over weight. It is easier to lower the hitch but with you dealing with 3'' then you may want to do a combination of lowering the hitch and raising the rear or just raise the rear so as not to have to deal with losing any bed clearance. A level rv gives you more even braking and with weight being more equal gives you a much safer rv. Safe Travels.

[beeje]

We just had to IS installed 6/17-18. They welded a 2x3" tube to the frame, then a 2x2" tube to that. The then welded the IS on to that. All of that raised our trailer around 2".

It now tows perfectly level and rides like a dream.

[214skier]

We just had to IS installed 6/17-18. They welded a 2x3" tube to the frame, then a 2x2" tube to that. The then welded the IS on to that. All of that raised our trailer around 2".

It now tows perfectly level and rides like a dream.

This is pretty compelling--- two questions:

1) Is this the suspension?

https://www.morryde.com/products/independent-suspension-system/

2) Would you mind sharing what it cost to do the mod?

the overweight to the rear axle has been my prevailing hypothesis--the new tires has helped; however, driving this rig is a very "active" job. So different than the Solitude.

[Texan]

beeje will have to give you the price he paid now but i paid about 5500.00 4 years ago for the I.S. and disc brakes. They give a 10% discount for having it done in the winter which starts in Nov. The I.S. matches the rv to the truck so that you are running level. My rv runs level on my truck but may not on another. You should be able to drive at 75mph with 1 finger on the steering wheel with ease even though i don't recommend it. My rig drives just as easy with or without the rv attached. I have yet to find any disadvantage to having the I.S. and disc brakes. This is one mod that's no gimmick. If i were to buy another rv today then my first trip would be to Mor-Ryde in Elkhart Ind. With the right tires and suspension you shouldn't be found on the side of the road even though anything can happen. Safe Travels.

[beeje]

What Texan said exactly. Currently the 7K is costs $3,900 I believe if you add disc brakes it's closer to 7000. I can also stop this trailer in a hurry