View Full Version : Sliding Hitches

01-21-2005, 06:08 AM
Hello everyone, I am in the process of purchasing a FW, but want to get some information prior to signing any papers. My question is, how well do the the sliding hitches work? I have an F-250 short box diesel and want to pull a 3295RK, weight is not a concern, but I have not been able to find any reliable information on the working of a sliding hitch. How much of a pain are the Reese's which you have to get out and move the handle, and when is that required? How good/effective are the automatic sliding units, how do they activate?
Additionally, what other major concerns are there for towing a FW with a short box?
Thanks in advance

01-21-2005, 07:21 AM
If I had it to do all over again I would buy the pullrite which automatically compensates as you turn.

But for the standard slider her is how I operate it.

When backing up I first stop, move the handle to the manuever, get back in the truck, manually hold the trailer brakes with the controller, and pull forward until the handle locks in manuever position.

The slider hitch has to remained greased at all times for use. In addtion with age the rollers dig into the rails so it it requires occasional filing to keep the movement from jerking. When maintained it works smooth as silk. Let it go and you will get a big bang while using it.

Do not let the salesman talk you out of a slider or pullrite. You will be sorry if you do because of the multitude of reports concerning hitting the cab.

The Montana people will try to tell you that you get 85 degree movement without the slider. That statement is true but for level ground only. if you backing in a dip or grade that figure goes out the window.

Without the slider for test purposes I have come within an inch of hitting. I wanted to know.

My opinion.

Good luck and welcome to the MOC.

01-21-2005, 07:52 AM
I bought a 16K pullrite slider in Nov and have pulled several hundred miles on it thus far. The first day I left the dealership after I had picked up my new 5er I discovered that they had made a mistake and (to thier favor on the order of $500) so I pulled into a gas station to execute the long turn around while I was trying to come out of the parking lot a semi truck started in the same side forcing me to make a tighter than intended turn. While turning I never thought about the distance between my back glass and the cab only the distance between my truck and the semi. When I finally realized how much the slider moved I would have already broke out the back window. Bottom line my slider paid for itself the first day. I have a 3 year old in a car seat in the back and I can't put a price on his safety.

Spend the extra money to get the auto slider - it will be worth it at some point.

As far a weight of the hitch - I can put in my truck and take it out on my own - but I am still a young guy full of vinegar; its heavy but nothing I cant handle for a couple more years.

Hope the buying goes well - good luck!!


Dave e Victoria
01-21-2005, 08:17 AM
Here is my 2cents worth. I did not know about the Pull Right when we bought our 3295RK but did know about bad things on sharp turns. We bought the manual slider. I rarely find a need to use it. I am consiouse of the need to be careful on tight turns over rough ground or on tight back ins. Now, here is an advantage of the manual as oppossed to the Pull right. -- FOR BEST MANEUVERABILITY FORWARD OR BACK THE HITCH SHOULD BE AS FAR AFT AS POSSIBLE. Remember how easy it is to back into a spot with a TT versus the Fiver. Having the hitch back gets some of that effect back. I always make sure the manual slider is locked back for any difficult maneuver.

One other point. I try to shift the slider on level ground to make the action smooth as described by Lightening. There is no problem driving some distance with the hitch in the rear position unless you are going to be going at street or highway speeds.

Then there is the matter of price. I just checed on the installed price for teh Pull Right super glide for a friend. Quality bumper wanted over 2000 bucks. My slider was bought through the dealer and installed by U-Haul for about 400.

Finally, I don't like to take the hitch apart to lift the parts out of the truck. Fortunately, I have access to a storage where I have a cheap old engine hoist. Works great and the whole unit stays together.

Glenn and Lorraine
01-21-2005, 09:10 AM
Welcome CV67Cheng to the MOC Family.

I have the Pullrite and would have no other hitch. The fact that I NEVER have to concern myself with forgetting to push or pull some lever to slide the hitch is all the reason I needed to have such a hitch. As a fulltimer I have found numerous instances where the automatic slider saved me having to get a new rear window. The first such incident was much like MB3, a tight u-turn on a 2 lane hiway. The turn required a full 90 degree turn. The SuperGlide did just what it was designed for.

Now this is how to get the price down on that Pullrite.
Negotiate, negotiate, negotiate.....
You started tyhis thread by saying "I am in the process of purchasing a FW, but want to get some information prior to signing any papers." Do what I did, I negotiated it into the price. After I had the dealers final offer on my Montana and just as we were getting ready to finalize the deal I made one last demand. Up to this point we had not discussed hitches. I told him I wanted the Pullrite 16K Superglide thrown in or I walk. I honestly thought he would do one of 2 things. He would either pass or at best knock off the installation charges. I was amazed when he threw the hitch and installation into the deal. Before he could change his mind the deal was done.
If you haven't finalized the deal Negotiate, negotiate, negotiate.....

You will never be sorry you have a SuperGlide. Think you can say that about any manual slider???

Go to the Pullrite (http://www.pullrite.com/) site and read all about it.
Call PullRite at 800-443-2307 and ask about their Free video on the SuperGlide.
Here's an article from RV Lifestyle (http://www.rvlifemag.com/file304/rvtip304.html)

01-21-2005, 01:01 PM
If I were doing it again and the two grand were not a concern I'd go with the pullrite. We have the reese. Like others said, be sure to keep it greased. I use the dri-lube slide lubricant, same thing I use on the slides. It works great and isn't greasy where it will get on your clothes. I spray it on the slide rails and also in every opening in the slider that would get it to the rollers and rails. If you don't, then it will be hard to "pop" the slider. Greased, I can move the lever and push it with my foot while standing in the bed of the truck, if I want to do that to test the action.

That said, the Montana's curved nose makes it less likely you'll need the slider. But I'd have it for those times you need it. In almost 9 years of towing fifthwheels with a shortbed truck I've used the slider just four times plus a couple of times just playing with it to make sure I knew how to operate it. They come with a manual on how to use it. That manual says to block the wheels of the FW. I don't do that, I just pull the lever on the brake controller and hold that while I let the truck roll forward. Sometimes I give it a very slight amount of throttle to pop it loose but keep my foot on the brake pedal to stop the forward motion so it doesn't bang too hard into it's rear position. It's not hard to use but if the money is not an object, the Pullrite is the safest and easiest way to go.

01-21-2005, 02:19 PM
To get into my drive I have to turn sharply from a 2 lane street into a slight dip and then a slight grade. My problem is to not hit the mailbox accross the street. Mine would hit the cab if I did engage the slider.

01-21-2005, 03:36 PM
I have the Husky 16K slider, double pivot, its a manual, and like it. I also have to use mine to get into my driveway, like lightningjack11 does. Mine is easy to use, just pull arm to release slider, hold trailer brake and pull forward till it locks. I also think it makes it easier to maneuver 5er when backing. At campgrounds, I will move slider as I get back in truck from signing in.

Like the automatic slider, but just couldn't see the extra $$$. Of course, if I take out the rear window, I will probably change my mind.

A note. If you do get a manual slider, try to make sure you are on pretty level ground when releasing. I didn't once, trailer was lower then truck, and trailer moved back as soon as I released handle. It jerked the truck pretty good. Wife was in truck and didn't know what I was doing, and lets just say I got a little lecture about that.

Montana Sky
01-21-2005, 10:22 PM
I have the Superglide for towing my 3400RL and would agree 100% with Glenn, this is a total hook and go hitch. No worrying about are my going to make it, or forgot to slide hitch and now need a new back window. I have taken my coach to the 90 degree mark on two seperate U-turns I have made. In my opinion, I would not be without the Superglide.

01-22-2005, 01:52 AM
Thank you all very much for the information. I have found a company that will sell and install the Superglide for 2000.00, to include Sentinal brake controller and an outlet in sidewall of bed of truck for trailer wire connection.
From what I read in other places, the teflon disk is also a must have, are there any ones better than others, or all teflon disks created equal.
Again, thanks and I appreciate the friendship displayed.

Glenn and Lorraine
01-22-2005, 07:00 AM
The teflon disks are not needed for the SuperGlide as the pin box does not pivot against the hitch.

01-22-2005, 02:10 PM
CV67CHENG, see if they'll give you the Prodigy brake controller instead of the Sentinel. The Sentinel is not a bad controller (we had one) but the Prodigy is head and shoulders better. Much more proportional and works in reverse. With the Prodigy, set it once and forget it. With the Sentinel you'll be changing the setting when you first start out and then change it again as the brakes warm up and again when they get hot after a day's driving. Then start all over next trip. With the Prodigy, get it set right once and forget it. We went over a year without changing the setting on the Prodigy. Much smoother action, too. If he won't go with the Prodigy for you, the Sentinel will still do the job for you. Just not as set-and-forget as the Prodigy. Both are made by Tekonsha so he can definitely get it.