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Old 10-18-2017, 08:55 AM   #1
Doug.landau1@gmail.com
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M.O.C. #20635
Stock DC wiring

Recently purchased a 2005 3400RL, looks as if the previous owner converted DC power to dual batteries, although only one battery was included. The wiring looks pretty sketchy to me, would like to restore to factory configuration if anyone has a 2005 3400RL Id really appreciate a quick photo/schematic of how yours is wired..

Thanks !

Doug
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:18 AM   #2
DQDick
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Without pictures, don't know what they did but we woudn't take delivery of our new one until they installed a second battery. The rig we traded in had six golf cart batteries. More batteries just give you more power when your stopping off the grid.
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Old 10-18-2017, 11:13 AM   #3
BuilderBob
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Welcome to MOC you should want at least 2 battery's in your rig best way to go is with gulf cart battery's we have 4 of them works great.

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Old 10-18-2017, 11:20 AM   #4
Lenny K
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Welcome to the MOC Doug.

Pictures of mine won't help as I have 4x6 volts hooked up. However you should have a couple of maybe 6 gauge wires, one that is hooked to the positive side of the battery and runs to a circuit breaker on the front wall and another that is hooked to the negative side of your battery and grounded to the frame. Don't know what other wires you would have there.

Hope that helps but like DQDick said, without pictures it's hard to say what the previous owners did.
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Old 10-18-2017, 12:56 PM   #5
BB_TX
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Mine is a 2007 3075RL, but the wiring is probably similar to your original wiring. Not a great picture below, but the wiring is pretty simple. A black wire from the positive terminal to the auto reset circuit breaker (the thing under the red cap) on the left. And a white wire from the negative terminal to the trailer frame.

We have never spent the night where we didn't have electric hookups, so the single battery has never been an issue for us.
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Old 10-18-2017, 01:51 PM   #6
Doug.landau1@gmail.com
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Tnanks! that's what I needed the reset breakers are using really small bolts like 3/8" I was just questioning those specifically.. it looks out of place with 6 awg wiring terminated on a 1/4 20 bolt....
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Originally Posted by BB_TX View Post
Mine is a 2007 3075RL, but the wiring is probably similar to your original wiring. Not a great picture below, but the wiring is pretty simple. A black wire from the positive terminal to the auto reset circuit breaker (the thing under the red cap) on the left. And a white wire from the negative terminal to the trailer frame.

We have never spent the night where we didn't have electric hookups, so the single battery has never been an issue for us.
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Old 10-18-2017, 02:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug.landau1@gmail.com View Post
Tnanks! that's what I needed the reset breakers are using really small bolts like 3/8" I was just questioning those specifically.. it looks out of place with 6 awg wiring terminated on a 1/4 20 bolt....
Heres a picture of mine,, in comparison I see jumpers on both sides of the resets, I'm wondering if they replaced these resets? Just doesn't look like factory..
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Old 10-18-2017, 02:19 PM   #8
BuilderBob
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Looking at your pic. the Black wire is bypassing both of the circuit breaker's so you have no protection if theirs a short. If you look at BB TX pic. that is the way it should be done.

Bob & Carol
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Old 10-18-2017, 05:40 PM   #9
BB_TX
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You are correct in that there should not be jumpers on both sides of the breakers. The battery wire should go to one side of one of the breakers and jumper to the one side of the other breaker. Then the other side of each breaker should have wires going to the respective loads associated with each breaker.

On mine, the battery wire goes to the breaker on the left, and a jumper from there to the breaker on the right. The black wire on the other side of the breaker on the left goes to my hydraulic pump for the slides. On the breaker on the right there is a red wire that goes to my front jacks (with an in-line fuse in the little black box in the wire). And the black wire goes to everything else 12 volt in the trailer (I assume thru the battery disconnect switch as it disappears thru the wall).
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Old 10-18-2017, 07:23 PM   #10
Doug.landau1@gmail.com
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Thanks everyone, really appreciate the help. I’m going to see what kind of mess I have without the extra jumper... I’m thinking that may have been a quick fix ....
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Old 10-18-2017, 08:06 PM   #11
BB_TX
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It appears that some one added the black jumper. That parallels the circuit breakers. It could be that the breaker for the hydraulic pump was tripping and he paralleled the breakers to get added current capability and stop that tripping. Would work I guess. But certainly not the best way to address the problem.

Tripping of the breaker to hydraulic pump has been a common problem. When operating slides the breaker will trip, slides stop, breaker resets, slides start, breaker trips, slides stop, etc, etc. Solution to that problem has been to replace the 50 amp slide breaker with an 80 amp breaker, or to wire two 40 amp breakers in parallel to effectively give an 80 amp rating.

Simply removing the black jumper may put it back original. If the above slide issue suddenly appears you will now know how to address that.
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Old 10-18-2017, 08:44 PM   #12
Doug.landau1@gmail.com
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Thanks bill ! I owe you a beverage!
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:03 PM   #13
DQDick
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Our 40amp breaker was replaced by Keystone under warranty with an 80amp breaker.
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Old 10-19-2017, 07:54 AM   #14
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My setup with 40amp replaced to 80amp for pump tripping issue. The second one with the cutoff is for the factory installed inverter. I have a residential fridge.
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