Go Back   Montana Owners Club - Keystone Montana 5th Wheel Forum > GENERAL DISCUSSIONS > General Discussions about our Montanas
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-07-2017, 02:02 PM   #1
H. John Kohl
Montana Master
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Full Time
Posts: 4,221
M.O.C. #311
Send a message via AIM to H. John Kohl Send a message via MSN to H. John Kohl Send a message via Yahoo to H. John Kohl
SAMSUNG RF18HFENBSR gains ten degrees an hour without power

Shirley and I purchased a new 2017 Montana 3721.

We found the commercial refrigerator gains ten degrees an hour when not powered. We had two tests, in one hour it raised 10 degrees and in two hours it had raised 20 degrees. We have our normal inside temperature at 38 degrees. I feel, and per Red Cross, anything over 40 degrees is definite food spoilage conditions.

I request anyone who has the Samsung RF18HFENBSR Commercial Refrigerator run a temperature test for 30 mins up to an hour and let me know if they are finding this lose is normal for them. RV or residential test is fine.

Keystone told me there is nothing wrong with my refrigerator. I am still trying to get a graft of temperature rise when not powered from SAMSUNG.

I know we will have to have it powered all the time. The Magnum inverter is critical.

Safe travels all.
H. John Kohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2017, 05:47 PM   #2
phillyg
Montana Fan
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: SWFL
Posts: 208
M.O.C. #17801
I have a residential Samsung and it maybe gains 10 degrees overnight if turned off and the doors remain closed. I'm not familiar with a commercial version, however.
__________________
2016 Montana 3711FL
2005 Ford F350, 6.0 diesel, short bed
Demco Hitchiker Auto Slide hitch
phillyg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2017, 08:38 AM   #3
airboatart
Established Member
 
airboatart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: ODESSA
Posts: 16
M.O.C. #17939
Temp in frig

We have a 2016 3721 our gain is only about 10 deg over night if turned off.
airboatart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2017, 05:23 PM   #4
oceandansar
Seasoned Camper
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: winter garden
Posts: 99
M.O.C. #17865
I installed a residential in our 12 3580rl and have had no problems with it. The longest we have been unhooked is 9 hours and the ice in the freezer wasn't even melting.
oceandansar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2017, 05:49 PM   #5
kg_nc
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wake forest
Posts: 7
M.O.C. #11772
Hello John,

We also have just bought a new 3731FL which has the same refrigerator as you have. My question is off-topic to your original post, but I want to get your thoughts on winterizing that refrigerator/freezer. I know it's early to start thinking of this, but I don't see an easy way to do it. I always use the compressed air method and never have had a problem. Most of the residential refrigerators have a water station that can be used to blow out the 1/4 water line but this one doesn't. I've searched the web and see that some are making "pink ice cubes" but I'd rather not use that since it would take time to work the anti-freeze to the ice maker. (I'm assuming) Have you given this any thought?

BTW, on your issue, 10 deg /hour temp rise sounds excessive, but what is the inside temperature of the trailer? The inside temperature is going to have an effect on the operation of the refrigerator. I know yours is off, but the same applies. This is the reason that refrigerator manufactures void the warranty if used in a non-temperature controlled environment like a garage. Keystone would expect the heat or a/c to be on while the refrigerator is on. I'm assuming that Samsung also assumes that the refrigerator will be in a normal household temperature when in operation. I haven't looked, but I'm sure in the specs there is something that states the operating environment for that model.

Anyway, if you have any ideas on the winterizing, or if anybody else out there has found a quick way, let me know. Thanks.
kg_nc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2017, 05:42 AM   #6
H. John Kohl
Montana Master
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Full Time
Posts: 4,221
M.O.C. #311
Send a message via AIM to H. John Kohl Send a message via MSN to H. John Kohl Send a message via Yahoo to H. John Kohl
Quote:
Originally Posted by kg_nc View Post
Hello John,

We also have just bought a new 3731FL which has the same refrigerator as you have. My question is off-topic to your original post, but I want to get your thoughts on winterizing that refrigerator/freezer. I know it's early to start thinking of this, but I don't see an easy way to do it. I always use the compressed air method and never have had a problem. Most of the residential refrigerators have a water station that can be used to blow out the 1/4 water line but this one doesn't. I've searched the web and see that some are making "pink ice cubes" but I'd rather not use that since it would take time to work the anti-freeze to the ice maker. (I'm assuming) Have you given this any thought?

BTW, on your issue, 10 deg /hour temp rise sounds excessive, but what is the inside temperature of the trailer? The inside temperature is going to have an effect on the operation of the refrigerator. I know yours is off, but the same applies. This is the reason that refrigerator manufactures void the warranty if used in a non-temperature controlled environment like a garage. Keystone would expect the heat or a/c to be on while the refrigerator is on. I'm assuming that Samsung also assumes that the refrigerator will be in a normal household temperature when in operation. I haven't looked, but I'm sure in the specs there is something that states the operating environment for that model.

Anyway, if you have any ideas on the winterizing, or if anybody else out there has found a quick way, let me know. Thanks.
I thought my dealer told me of a low point drain for the ice maker water line. I looked and did not find one but did find a splice on the water line at the rear of the slide. So I would open it up and let the water drain out to winterize.

There is a "reset" button on the back of the ice maker that dumps the tray and allows more water to come in. It can be used to more rapidly purge water (pink stuff) into the ice maker system.

Your last paragraph starting "BTW" is accurate for a home unit but not applicable for an RV. When I go down the road I do not have power to run the AC so the inside temperature will get up to 90 or 100 and higher in the south west on a hot day. The fridge has to maintain cold with good insulation if no power is applied or as current told by Keystone I have to keep power on it at all times. So the concern of operating in a garage is even worse in an RV.

At this point I can not and will not recommend Commercial Refrigerator for an RV.

Thanks for your reply.
H. John Kohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2017, 10:32 AM   #7
bad99ram
Montana Fan
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Ishpeming
Posts: 139
M.O.C. #18650
Quote:
Originally Posted by kg_nc View Post
Hello John,

We also have just bought a new 3731FL which has the same refrigerator as you have. My question is off-topic to your original post, but I want to get your thoughts on winterizing that refrigerator/freezer. I know it's early to start thinking of this, but I don't see an easy way to do it. I always use the compressed air method and never have had a problem. Most of the residential refrigerators have a water station that can be used to blow out the 1/4 water line but this one doesn't. I've searched the web and see that some are making "pink ice cubes" but I'd rather not use that since it would take time to work the anti-freeze to the ice maker. (I'm assuming) Have you given this any thought?

BTW, on your issue, 10 deg /hour temp rise sounds excessive, but what is the inside temperature of the trailer? The inside temperature is going to have an effect on the operation of the refrigerator. I know yours is off, but the same applies. This is the reason that refrigerator manufactures void the warranty if used in a non-temperature controlled environment like a garage. Keystone would expect the heat or a/c to be on while the refrigerator is on. I'm assuming that Samsung also assumes that the refrigerator will be in a normal household temperature when in operation. I haven't looked, but I'm sure in the specs there is something that states the operating environment for that model.

Anyway, if you have any ideas on the winterizing, or if anybody else out there has found a quick way, let me know. Thanks.
Read your owners manual. it states NOT to run RV antifreeze into the ice maker. You are to drain the system using the low point drain.
bad99ram is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2017, 10:41 AM   #8
jlb27537
Montana Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Depends on temps
Posts: 1,553
M.O.C. #13157
I have to ask what is in the frig during your test?

The reason I ask, when I turn on my RV 8' FRIG, I put 18 beers in the second shelf and 6 Sprites in the top door shelf. They act as heat/cold stabilizers and when the door is opened and shut, the frig temp does not change.

If, you do not have any heat/cold stabilizers in it, yeah, the temp swing would probably be normal.
__________________

2012 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 4x4 3.73 Tow Max Pkg B&W Companion 60 gal RDS aux fuel tank. 2014 Montana 3150RL, 2 A/C's, Leather, 6 Point Jacks, Splendede WD2100XC, Mor/ryde X-Factor, Duravis 250 tires with TST 507RV monitors.
jlb27537 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2017, 10:51 AM   #9
H. John Kohl
Montana Master
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Full Time
Posts: 4,221
M.O.C. #311
Send a message via AIM to H. John Kohl Send a message via MSN to H. John Kohl Send a message via Yahoo to H. John Kohl
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlb27537 View Post
I have to ask what is in the frig during your test?

The reason I ask, when I turn on my RV 8' FRIG, I put 18 beers in the second shelf and 6 Sprites in the top door shelf. They act as heat/cold stabilizers and when the door is opened and shut, the frig temp does not change.

If, you do not have any heat/cold stabilizers in it, yeah, the temp swing would probably be normal.
Our refrigerator was over half full. We were moving from one campground to another. Thanks for asking.
H. John Kohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2017, 08:59 PM   #10
kg_nc
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wake forest
Posts: 7
M.O.C. #11772
Quote:
Originally Posted by bad99ram View Post
Read your owners manual. it states NOT to run RV antifreeze into the ice maker. You are to drain the system using the low point drain.
There's nothing in the owners manual that I saw that addressed winterizing a residential refrigerator. But to your point, I did find a piece of paper stuck in a drawer (owners manual addendum that wasn't with the owners manual) that was copied a 1000 times (hard to read) that said there is a low point drain. I was also informed to read the sticker under the sink that also stated the same. Trouble is, that sticker didn't make it in my trailer.

Thanks for your reply.
kg_nc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2017, 07:56 AM   #11
Twopetes
Montana Fan
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Beloit
Posts: 147
M.O.C. #17535
The OP noted the inverter in his post. Our HC 353 has an inverter, which I just replaced (under warrantee). When we are disconnected from shore power and on battery, the readout shows 110 vac which it is supposed to! But I have no power to the 110 vac system in the trailer. This sounds like this is the OP's issue also.


I am unsure how this system is supposed to work. The inverter has an auto cutover switch (or so it says) and it shows ac power. How does this system connect into the trailer system? It has all the wires connected to the trailer as per installation instructions. This is what is supposed to power the residential frig (same Samsung as noted above) when on battery. I am pretty good on wiring, but this ones got me baffled! Any help is appreciated!


Steve
__________________
Steve & Lisa
2015 Montana High Country 353 RL | 2011 F-250 FX-4 Crew Cab
Firestone air bags | Reese Goosebox
Ready to live the dream
Twopetes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2017, 03:48 PM   #12
kg_nc
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wake forest
Posts: 7
M.O.C. #11772
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twopetes View Post
The OP noted the inverter in his post. Our HC 353 has an inverter, which I just replaced (under warrantee). When we are disconnected from shore power and on battery, the readout shows 110 vac which it is supposed to! But I have no power to the 110 vac system in the trailer. This sounds like this is the OP's issue also.


I am unsure how this system is supposed to work. The inverter has an auto cutover switch (or so it says) and it shows ac power. How does this system connect into the trailer system? It has all the wires connected to the trailer as per installation instructions. This is what is supposed to power the residential frig (same Samsung as noted above) when on battery. I am pretty good on wiring, but this ones got me baffled! Any help is appreciated!


Steve
Steve,
If your trailer is like mine, which it probably is, the inverter only supplies 110 vac to the refrigerator, not the remaining 110v circuits.
kg_nc is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:44 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.