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Old 10-19-2016, 02:55 AM   #1
jameswbarton
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Pipe Identification Kitchen Sink

I have two 1/2 inch white pex pipes coming through the kitchen sink floor terminated at the countertop with a black plastic fitting. Is this an air breaker or a shutoff. It does not appear to be a valve but is marked with a flow direction?
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:27 AM   #2
NCFischers
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It's a backflow preventer for your black tank flush.
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:27 AM   #3
beeje
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It most likely is the back flow preventer for the black tank flush line
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:39 AM   #4
jcurtis934
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Least they used white pex on yours...mine was one each red and blue, but I wasn't fooled. Water squirted out of mine when starting the rinse. John
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Old 10-19-2016, 05:14 AM   #5
jameswbarton
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Weird that it would rise under the kitchen sink? Thanks for the info! I still am trying to find my icemaker shutoff and icemaker drain valve.
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Old 10-19-2016, 05:45 AM   #6
MARK A
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by jameswbarton

Weird that it would rise under the kitchen sink? Thanks for the info! I still am trying to find my icemaker shutoff and icemaker drain valve.
It is an accessible 'high point' for a vacuum operated backflow valve. Your floorplan looks like the sink is right over the tanks location. It was an easy place for them to put it. I think mine is under the bathroom sink. They should be required to put them all in the same location.

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Old 10-19-2016, 06:19 AM   #7
jameswbarton
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My front living room changes things. They could have put the riser in MY WD closet in the bathroom but that would have been unsightly I guess. The Kitchen is 6-8 feet further forward than the black tank but it is the clear access closest. They did not cut through the floor in the bathroom sink they ran that through the kitchen bath wall. Is the forward grey tank usually under the kitchen? I guess I need to pull some of the rest of the belly cover to see what is there. I need to see how many more holes to foam anyway and cannot easily get to the jack power holes from the outside.
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Old 10-22-2016, 12:59 PM   #8
jameswbarton
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I tried to winterize today and found a page insert to the manual for the residential fridge ice maker. I said there was a valve to shutoff the ice maker under the sink and a drain. The instructions were to close the valve and open the drain to winterize. It cautioned do not put antifreeze into the ice maker?

I had to pull the belly pan to identify which pipe went to the ice maker as the valve under the sink did not shutoff the ice maker and I found another plumbing fiasco. When I removed the first few screws I got gallons of water dripping out of the belly. It appears they incorrectly plumbed the system and reversed pipes under the Kitchen. Someone attempted to make it correct using push in pex couplings that were leaking. So more water leaks, more unsecured unmounted plumbing and an extra day having to leave it open to dry out. I installed another valve by the diagram and left the incorrect valve as it is a plumbing shutoff for the bathroom and kitchen sink. It appears they had trial and error day as the plumbing has many splices and runs that are unnecessary.

Winterizing by the manual is pretty poor. They either blow the lines or recommend 4-6 gallons of antifreeze. My last Warranty dealer gave me a procedure where you drain and blow the lines and then use antifreeze and it only requires less than 2 gallons. I did not have any issue using the winterizing fitting and valve as it pulled from the jugs easily.

The instructions in the manual also did not tell me to blow the water out of the tank flush system which was needed.

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Old 10-22-2016, 02:38 PM   #9
dieselguy
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Plastic lines are pretty forgiving along each run away from the fittings. I went for several years without blowing out the black tank flush or fresh water power fill line until I was alerted in conversation about it here on the MOC. It gets darned cold here in Kansas, but luckily I had no issue.
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