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Old 12-17-2017, 04:22 PM   #21
MARK A
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Are the tank heaters DC powered?
That I'm not sure of. I'd think they're likely 125V it would be a huge drain on the batteries. Next time I go out I'll unplug the trailer and see.


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Old 12-17-2017, 04:57 PM   #22
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Why leave kitchen cabinets open? We have 2006 Keystone and are full timers. Temps have been down around 15 degrees and line(s) are freezing even though we leave propane furnace on set at 56 - 58 degrees. We bought trailer used so trying to figure out where to start to look for problem. During day temps raise above freezing and lines defrost. No water leaks so far under trailer. Not using hot water heater as we have place to shower.
In addition to what Carl said, some people leave the cabinet doors and drawers open to facilitate air circulation and decrease condensation in them; particularly, when experiencing extended periods of low temps.
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Old 12-17-2017, 06:07 PM   #23
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We have been in Bloomington for 4 weeks. First night water supply line froze and so we used on board water no problem. Purchased heated supply line and it froze solid. Turns out the 20 amp socket at post was not working. Hooked up 30 amp with adapter for 20 amp problem solved. Temps down into the teens all ok. Had difficulty dumping as valves were frozen so left both gray tanks open and just dump black every couple of days when it warms up to 40. Btw we use 3 electric heaters and only run the furnace when it is really cold from 5 am to 7 am.
You need to run the furnace to keep your basement and tank areas from freezing. Your electric heaters only work to keep the living area warm.
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Old 12-17-2017, 06:44 PM   #24
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Old 12-17-2017, 10:04 PM   #25
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That I'm not sure of. I'd think they're likely 125V it would be a huge drain on the batteries. Next time I go out I'll unplug the trailer and see.


Mark
Thanks, but how will you know? Mine do not have any indicator lights and you can't get to them to see if they are hot. I suspect they are DC powered based on the dinky little switches. I checked my DC and AC distribution panel; nothing labeled tank heaters.
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Old 12-17-2017, 10:12 PM   #26
MARK A
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Thanks, but how will you know? Mine do not have any indicator lights and you can't get to them to see if they are hot. I suspect they are DC powered based on the dinky little switches. I checked my DC and AC distribution panel; nothing labeled tank heaters.
If I unplug the trailer, and they don't light up I'd have to assume they're 125V. If there aren't any lights in the switches they could easily be 125V as several of my power tools have rocker switches.

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Old 12-17-2017, 10:46 PM   #27
MARK A
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Thanks, but how will you know? Mine do not have any indicator lights and you can't get to them to see if they are hot. I suspect they are DC powered based on the dinky little switches. I checked my DC and AC distribution panel; nothing labeled tank heaters.
I went out and looked, my 3 switches are blue, when turned on they light up. I didn't unplug the rig to see, but I'm thinking you are correct, they're probably 12V running off of the converter. It will be interesting tomorrow to see if they run off the batteries alone.

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Old 12-18-2017, 01:01 AM   #28
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Ok, thanks. You have different switches than I do; mine do not have indicator lights.
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Old 12-18-2017, 01:22 PM   #29
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Ok, thanks. You have different switches than I do; mine do not have indicator lights.
Well, for what itís worth, I unplugged the rig and the blue switches still light up. So Iím assuming a 12V feed. Did or can I verify they are working? No, but if I put too much more thought into it the belly cover will be coming down LOL .

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Old 12-18-2017, 05:29 PM   #30
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Don't trust the fact that the indicator light glows on a switch that there is power to something. Even when you are not plugged in to 120 volts, your water heater switch for electric still glows. This is a 12 volt circuit to the relay that turns the 120 volts on the the water heater. This could also be the same for the tank heaters.
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Old 12-18-2017, 06:28 PM   #31
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Don't trust the fact that the indicator light glows on a switch that there is power to something. Even when you are not plugged in to 120 volts, your water heater switch for electric still glows. This is a 12 volt circuit to the relay that turns the 120 volts on the the water heater. This could also be the same for the tank heaters.
Could very well be! Iíd call Keystone but I doubt anyone there would know either.😎

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Old 12-18-2017, 11:52 PM   #32
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While I was adding extra foam insulation to the basement area I had the basement wall out and also the convenient center surround cover off. I had three ducts heading from the furnace into separate areas. One went to the main floor duct leading to the bedroom and other areas. The second ran from the furnace to the bathroom floor vent. The third ran towards a hole in the floor behind the wall and was suppose to go into the belly section to heat put some heat into the area of the tanks and the belly. That one was NOT in the hole so I pushed it down into it to get some of the warm air into that area. I also took the 2" duct that was running to the bathroom floor vent and cut it in half and installed an PVC "Y" fitting. I radiator clamped the 2" duct from the furnace to the "Y' and connected the other end to one side of the "Y" for the bathroom. The other part of the "Y" I radiator clamped a piece of rubber under dash ducting from an auto supply business and ran it over to the convenient center to add some heat to that area. I do have the vent hole in the basement wall and if it gets really cold I also carry a small trouble light with a 60 watt heavy duty bulb in it and plug it into the 120 socket in the basement. I keep it away from any thing combustible because that little sucker throws off some good heat to keep the basement warm and some of that heat also goes into the basement behind the wall through that vented hole in the wall.
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Old 12-19-2017, 12:07 AM   #33
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Well, for what itís worth, I unplugged the rig and the blue switches still light up. So Iím assuming a 12V feed. Did or can I verify they are working? No, but if I put too much more thought into it the belly cover will be coming down LOL .

Mark
Thanks for checking. Looks like a little more research will be necessary when I get my Montana back from the shop. I don't remember hearing any relays click when I his the tank heater switches. May not mean anything, but I suspect they are DC. I just want to know if they will work when I'm dry camping (yes, I know that they will drain a battery fast).
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Old 12-21-2017, 09:36 AM   #34
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I sent a note to the owner relations customer service at Keystone asking about the tank heaters. It really bugs me that the lights may be giving a false sense of operation when the switch is on - if the lite is 12vdc but is switching a 12vdc relay to close a circuit to a 120vac load. There is no label on the 12 volt fuses nor the 120 volt breakers that indicate any tank heaters. Sorry if this went off from OP frozen pipes but someone mentioned frozen tank valves, then tank heaters. It's only a bit off topic.......
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Old 12-21-2017, 10:40 AM   #35
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The only tank heater the brochure states on a 2017 HC is the FW tank. If it is there I've found no way to turn it on.
Heat to the underbelly, yes ~~ but it does not help the lines to the washer up front as no heat to the basement.
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Old 12-21-2017, 11:16 AM   #36
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There is no label on the 12 volt fuses nor the 120 volt breakers that indicate any tank heaters.
Same on my unit. Let me know if they respond; thanks for checking.
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