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Old 01-12-2011, 04:40 PM   #21
scductman
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Ozz he just wanted a 10k to keep from using a electric just to help the furnace. I thought it worked great he only used it a little while maybe a couple of weeks and winterized the rv for the winter. I talked to a guy in ga that used one all winter to heat a montana and he said it worked great and he only used 100lb of propane and he cooked and run the WH for 2 months. I like the heat with no power usage part. electric is less trouble if you are on 50amp but not on 30amp. I am trying to place a 120v box in mine to plug up to the heater from the 20amp rec in the ped so it can run seperatly from the rv. I think you already did this?
bobby
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Old 01-13-2011, 12:37 AM   #22
Ozz
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by scductman

Ozz he just wanted a 10k to keep from using a electric just to help the furnace. I am thinking of trying to find a place to recess, or hang a small heater, either Cat or Blue flame typeI thought it worked great he only used it a little while maybe a couple of weeks and winterized the rv for the winter. I talked to a guy in ga that used one all winter to heat a montana and he said it worked great and he only used 100lb of propane and he cooked and run the WH for 2 months. I like the heat with no power usage part. electric is less trouble if you are on 50amp but not on 30amp. I am trying to place a 120v box in mine to plug up to the heater from the 20amp rec in the ped so it can run seperatly from the rv. I think you already did this? Bobbie, I did this for my chest freezer, it can be useful
bobby
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Old 01-13-2011, 08:04 AM   #23
RCN.Stoker
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This popped up in my research on catalytic heaters. I saved it and now share it to add to this discussion. I am not a chemist so I can't vouch for the accuracy of the chemical formulas.

"I work for a company [that makes] Fuel Cells. Our fuel cells are supplied with natural gas or propane, and they produce electricity. No I am not trying to sell anything, but the chemical conversion process is identical to that catalytic Coleman propane heater, or one made by any other company. I will not quote any owners manual, but I would like to share the chemical reaction that occurs when propane is oxidized.

The chemical composition of propane is C3H8, 3 carbon atoms and 8 hydrogen atoms. Complete combustion of propane is as follows:
C3H8 + 5O2 --> 3CO2 + 4H2O (the equation is balanced)
As you can see carbon dioxide and water are produced. This the same chemical equation doubled for clarity later.
2C3H8 + 10O2 --> 6CO2 + 8H2O

Complete combustion occurs when there is always an abundant supply of oxygen (or air). Incomplete combustion occurs when the supply of oxygen is less than what is required to complete the reaction. So we adjust the chemical reaction by lowering the number in front of O2, but the chemical equation still needs to be balanced so it would go like this:
2C3H8 + 9O2 --> 4CO2 + 8H2O + 2CO
Here we have less oxygen available to perform the reaction so we get incomplete combustion. And look, we get the formation of CO. And in either case we also get the formation of water (in the form of vapor).

I will not make any recommendations about ensuring that there is an adequate supply of fresh air. Everyone should be smart enough to do that on their own (especially when the owners manual makes the same statement).

If this helps everyone understand why an adequate supply of fresh air is essential, and it can save someones life, think that was worth 3 cents.
- drdouger on rv.net (with permission)"
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:20 AM   #24
Ozz
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That has always been a concern for me. I looked into the 'Oxygen depletion sensor' You know what it is? It is a mechanical device. The pilot light has a hole drilled into the assembly that draws air- Which is only around 20% oxygen, into the hole and provides an oxygen enriched combustion balance. When the air drops in oxygen enough, the little hole ceases to provide combustion and the pilot light starves and goes out. Hopefully while we still have an oxygen enriched environment...
But I guess it works. Thanks for the post on the propane .
I thought it was cool that it is 99% efficient!

http://www.northerntool.com/download...als/173635.pdf
(See page 5)
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Old 01-15-2011, 05:30 AM   #25
mtheo
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I presonally don't like vent free units in that they deplete the availiable O2 and they leave large amount of moisture in the air.
I personally have install numerous self venting units (in stick homes) that vent to the outside and use outside air for combustion. All the units I have install will operate with or without a blower. I'm not sure why they don't use them in RV's, they vent to the outside wall and take up no more room than the elctric units. Weight might be the reason in that they are some what heavier than the electric units.
They would be great for dry camping and you can get them in very small BTUs, some as low as 8,000 BTUs.
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Old 01-15-2011, 10:42 AM   #26
grampachet
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Ozz, this is what my brother has in his cruiseahome houseboat. http://www.boatownersworld.com/dicki...aces_p9000.htm
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Old 01-15-2011, 10:46 AM   #27
grampachet
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quote:Originally posted by grampachet

Ozz, this is what my brother has in his cruiseahome houseboat. http://www.boatownersworld.com/dicki...aces_p9000.htm
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Old 01-15-2011, 11:24 AM   #28
Ozz
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Direct vent. That would do away with the water vapor, and the possible CO emission. Also, you could heep the space all 'zipped up'.
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