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Old 10-13-2010, 06:29 AM   #1
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Jacking for wet bolt installation

I've read all the threads and my question is probably been hashed and re-hashed. My question is; Do you put both sides in the air when installing the kit or just one side at a time. I plan on using bottle and floor jacks with oak tree stumps and 4X4's instead of jack stands.
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Old 10-13-2010, 06:56 AM   #2
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IMO - one side at a time is sufficient. Make sure you install with the holes at the 3 and 9 o'clock position and grease them before installing to make sure the holes are drilled all the way through. Good Luck!
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Old 10-13-2010, 07:06 AM   #3
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Here is a link that might help with your question. http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...d/21609645.cfm

I did mine and I had both wheels off the ground at once. I had the trailer resting on jack stands. I used bottle jacks under the axles.
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Old 10-13-2010, 09:48 AM   #4
Pete Hanson
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When I did mine I just got both wheels on one side up at a time. It worked out fine. Ditto on the grease holes as noted by Steve.
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Old 10-13-2010, 01:30 PM   #5
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Same here, one side at a time cause I hate having all that trailer hanging above me...
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Old 10-13-2010, 02:36 PM   #6
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One side at a time with both axles up on that side that is being worked on. Best to have Monty hooked to the truck to act as a fulcrum or swivel on the front at the 5th wheel hitch.
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Old 10-13-2010, 04:16 PM   #7
Bruce Lenhardt
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I lifted both sides at the same time. I would recommend using jack stands. Oak tree stumps and 4 x 4's sounds scary to me.
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Old 10-13-2010, 04:43 PM   #8
Illini Trekker
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One side at a time then set frame on blocking you'll need the bottle jacks at that point to help raise the axles to pull pins and get your alignment back to insert new pins. I worked from the rear to the front, you may need some help to pull the spring left or right a bit I had a small com-a-long to help me. The link above is a great guide to use. We got by with a 12" C clamp and used deep well sockets and smaller sockets to help push the new wet bolts in. All should go smooth the only problem I had I turned the new wet bolt around and installed them so the grease fittings are accessed from the under side of the trailer. The serrated bolt being pressed into the hanger needed a couple of raps with a 4 pound hammer to help them seat.
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Old 10-14-2010, 02:53 AM   #9
Tom S.
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All the info given is good, but I'll add one thing. You don't need to raise the whole trailer high enough to remove the wheels. Put your jack(s) under the frame and raise it a couple of inches. This takes most of the load off the springs and axles. Now you can use a smaller jack under the axle (between the u-bolts) and raise the wheel/tire off the ground for removal. You'll most likely need a jack under the axle to move the spring around to get the bolt holes to line up anyway.

Put safety first!!! Either hook up the tow vehicle first and set the parking brake, or make sure to immobilize the opposite side wheels/tires with wheel chocks. Or better yet, do both!
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