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Old 08-29-2010, 06:16 AM   #41
jackel1959
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How did you cut the pans?
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Old 08-29-2010, 01:33 PM   #42
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To cut the pans was pretty easy. I used a silver Sharpie to mark a line 1.25" up from the bottom around the tub. Used a standard blade in my jig saw and just sanded the edges a little to get all the fuzzies off.
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Old 08-29-2010, 03:06 PM   #43
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We put the sliders under our chairs after reading this tread and loved it. Thanks a bunch. We even expanded and bought small 1 inch sliders and put them on the kitchen chairs. Now they slide back and forth with ease also.
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Old 08-29-2010, 05:17 PM   #44
jackel1959
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by bobsals

To cut the pans was pretty easy. I used a silver Sharpie to mark a line 1.25" up from the bottom around the tub. Used a standard blade in my jig saw and just sanded the edges a little to get all the fuzzies off.
Thanks for the info on cutting....I picked up the pans today at HD and will cut them and install in the next day or so.
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Old 08-29-2010, 06:34 PM   #45
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I guess you have to take out the tie down cleats for the pans to work. How do you then keep the recliners in place for travel?
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Old 08-30-2010, 02:44 AM   #46
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Walt & Carol, The pans slid over the floor cleats without interference. However, we now only use the floor cleats close to the back wall. We tried using the four cleats furnished by the manufacturer (two for each chair) but my wife got tired of climbing over the counter top to free the chairs from binding the slides. I then just started using the rear cleats and modified the strap to just go around both chairs. Just made it so the clasp was in front to make it easy to buckle up. No longer used the center cleats so removed them. Now they stay close to the back wall and do not interfere with the outgoing slide flange.

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Old 09-08-2010, 05:44 PM   #47
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Well I finally go the pans cut and under the chairs on Monday and they work great. I used my jigsaw and the lip of the pan as a guide which made the pans about 1 inch tall after the cut. The recliners are much easier to move than before, but don't move so easily that I am concerned about them sliding around while on the road. I will be taking a 2 week trip starting Sunday so I will see how they handle while on the road
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Old 09-19-2010, 11:08 AM   #48
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I tried the hot water heater pans also. I just used my jigsaw on the inside of the pans and did not have to mark anything. The height of my saw was about a litle over an inch and it turned out very even. Trimmed the rough edges with a knife and put the recliners on them. Perfect. Thanks for the tip, it's about the best one I have ever tried.
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:44 AM   #49
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I have put approx 1200 miles on the rig in the last couple of weeks and the recliners did not move anymore than they did before putting the pans underneath them. We never tied the recliners down prior to installing the pans and don't see a need to do so now. Great fix!!!
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Old 09-20-2010, 10:32 AM   #50
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Thanx, gang...I'm headed to Home Depot!
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Old 09-20-2010, 06:02 PM   #51
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GREAT ideas, all of them. Or you could do what we did......and move/replace the recliners. After much deliberation, we decided that we liked the sofa in front of the big window in the back. So we swapped locations with the recliners and sofa. Of course, now the recliners hit the wall. Well, recliners are now in the "stick house" and we have new "wall hugger" La-z-Boys in place of the original recliners. Love the new setup, and we never have to move the recliners. Just another suggestion.....!
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Old 09-21-2010, 05:20 PM   #52
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We tried swapping the sofa and chairs but the sofa sticks out too far and interfers with the slides. I will purchase the pans though. We also have problems with the chairs moving back even though we tie them down. We had a similar problem with our CC and used the sofa cushions between the chairs and the rear wall. Unfortunately our cushions are not removable so we are going to use the extra pillows from our bed.
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Old 09-24-2010, 03:39 PM   #53
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Our solution was to simply replace the OEM recliners with ones purchased from a national furniture retailer. They are lighter, much more comfortable and they were affordable. Kat can move them as needed with no complaints.

When we traded up for the Big Sky, we kept our aftermarket recliners.

They do need to be strapped down, but that isn't a problem as we have many straps and hardware anchors and used a couple in the dining room slide (we removed our couch).
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Old 09-24-2010, 04:40 PM   #54
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I bought a drain pan at Menards today and it worked fine. I will cut it down when we get home as it did block the use of the rocking and reclining. It slides much easier with the pan.
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Old 09-25-2010, 02:13 AM   #55
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I'm going to try the drain pan solution. Thanks for the information!

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Old 10-01-2010, 03:20 PM   #56
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Did the drain pan fix on ours and works great!
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Old 10-02-2010, 02:31 AM   #57
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I can't find the drain pans made of plastic. So far, they have all been aluminum.
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Old 10-02-2010, 08:17 AM   #58
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Tom S.

I can't find the drain pans made of plastic. So far, they have all been aluminum.
Home Depot SKU# 358829
http://www.homedepot.com/Plumbing-Wa...atalogId=10053
You may be able to have the store order them if they normally do not stock them. Good Luck
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Old 10-02-2010, 10:19 AM   #59
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For you drain panners... how does it affect the chair when you are using it? Besides the standard rocking and swiveling of the factory chairs in my rig, does the pan provide any extra movement one should be aware of?
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Old 10-02-2010, 11:51 AM   #60
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I installed my pans after we got home from the rally. I did cut them down using the jig saw as suggested previously. The chairs rock, swivel and recline just like before. They slide now where as before they did not.
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