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Old 11-28-2009, 09:16 AM   #1
paddler67
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elec. switch

how many MOC members have moved the elec.switch for the front jacks from inside of storage area to the outside of unit? i have relocated the switch for an 03 and 07.
gene.
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Old 11-28-2009, 09:27 AM   #2
Tom S.
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I'm curious why you would want to. I'd be afraid of kids playing with it.
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:22 AM   #3
Rondo
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Gene-- How about some pictures if possible? Not a bad idea but as Tom said I'd be afraid of kids playing with the switch unless it was covered.
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:43 AM   #4
H. John Kohl
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Gene,
Do you have any pictures. I was thinking of moving it to the propane area so I did not have to fight the bifold doors.

If I did anything with the switch I would put relays in because I found the switch is only rated at 20 Amps and I am fused for 30 and some are fused for 40. Those contacts will not last long.

I started to draw the wiring diagram for relays to preform the function of the switch and found the switch would have to be rewired when including the relays. That is not a hard thing but does make it harder for outsiders or service centers to trouble shoot.
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Old 11-28-2009, 11:14 AM   #5
farmboy
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John, I think you have a good idea there. I was thinking of using a couple of old fashion starter relays. They are relatively cheap and more than enough amp. rating. I haven't had a problem yet in 5 full seasons. But---
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:06 PM   #6
paddler67
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hello
the switch to raise the elec. jacks is installed inside of a clean h2o gate. the one i bought is rectangle in shape approx. 5"x6" OD. cut out approx. 3"x4.5" ID. in the side of the camper. the door has the old ch751 key.
install door just below orange running light on street side of camper. ( 07 yr.) cut out the back of water gate for the switch. remove the switch from the storage area and secure switch to the back of the gate. install water gate with lockable door into side of camper. i used 1/4"x1" sheet metal screws to secure door to camper. i used butyl tape for adhesive.
i made this modification on 2 montanas. worked good for me.
note: be extra careful when laying out the cutout in the side of your camper. you have a support running down the front side of camper. drill four small pilot holes before you start cutting.
i have the 40 amp. fuse and have pulled 43 amps while raising camper. original fuse lasted about 1.5yrs.
don't know how to do pic. on the site.
gene
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:13 PM   #7
Red939
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What is the advantage of the move? Either way you have to unlock a door to get to the key and I'm tall enough that I can see the gear, pin and hitch while operating the switch from its present location.
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:56 PM   #8
H. John Kohl
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Gene (paddler67) asked me to post these for him.


View from the inside
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Old 11-28-2009, 02:00 PM   #9
Illini Trekker
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I moved my switch to a cord with the toggle on the end of the cord. I can adjust the wood under the legs and check for level easier. The switch on the cord helps when hitching and unhitching from the truck. I can look at the springs and see when the weight is off the overloads so I know to pull out from under the truck. Easy fix just added 6' of romex and a plastic switch box.
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Old 11-28-2009, 02:17 PM   #10
rubble express
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To eliminate the bifold door issue (wind blowing it around) I just put a door clip like the front uplifting and the rt side basement uplifting doors have on the foward left side door to hold it open. Works great.
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Old 11-29-2009, 01:06 AM   #11
Tom S.
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Ah ha - that makes sense. I was envisioning a weather proof switch mounted on the outside. Nice job!
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Old 11-29-2009, 05:05 AM   #12
Rondo
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Thanks Gene and John for the pictures! As Tom says "Now I understand!" Dennis do you have any pictures of your mod for the switch. Where did you put the box and where do you store the romex with the switch on it? Inquiring minds need to know!!
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