Changing tire - Montana Owners Club

bulbrich · 10-12-2009, 01:29 PM

Had to replace my first tire today to pot hole damage. My question is, I changed it by jacking the axle in order to remove the tire. I have been told this is not correct???? What is the correct way then, when your on the road and broke down? Other than waiting hours for a road service.

8e3k0 · 10-12-2009, 03:12 PM

If you stay with you jack directly under a u-bolt you will have enough strength with the axle and u-bolt to not bend or hurt anything. Also wise to to pull the other tandem wheel(same side) up on a 2 inch thick piece of material (2 X 8 X 12 wood) to take less stress off the the other axle with the flat to be jacked. If you jack on the axle beyond the u-bolts and towards the inner part of axle the exreme weight could bend or arc the axle upwards which will distort alignment. Ideal is to lift at and on the frame as near to the axle area as possible, but this is difficult with a small jack and in an emergency situation. Hope this helps.

TLightning · 10-12-2009, 04:55 PM

I certainly do not claim to be an expert, but both the Montana manual and the Dexter manual say to place the jack on the frame near the spring hanger. There is a photo of the spring hanger in the Mor/ryde suspension manual. All the manuals say do not put the jack anywhere on the axle.

ols1932 · 10-12-2009, 10:52 PM

I used to worry about that problem of just where to jack. I could never get a jack under the right place unless I started with a small bottle jack and lifted and blocked, then used a bigger jack. Now, with my Bigfoot Levelers all I have to do is run one of the jacks down and lift the rig. Just thought I'd give that little bit of information from what we've experienced.

Orv

Emmel · 10-13-2009, 12:29 AM

At this years rally, both Lippert and Dexter said to never lift the unit by the axle or by one tire.
Dexter said when you lift by the axle, you could very easily bend the axle you are lifting with.
Lippert said to lift the unit off the ground by raising one tire on a board puts all that sides weight on one axle otherwise doubling that tires weight capacity.

8e3k0 · 10-13-2009, 07:56 AM

We have to be reasonable with tandem axles and understand that when they are travelling over rough roads or terrain that each indivual axle is shocked by taking the whole weight while the other axle moves into a hole or depression or opposite over a hump. This can also mean that if your unit is not being trailered level (nose up or down), you will be creating more pressure on one axle compared to the other. A lot of times theory and practical application does not combine effectively especially if it is an emergency on the road and you have only a 6 ton or smaller hydraulic bottle jack that may not reach high enough to lift the frame and axle assemblies. Also this does not say much for the strength and quality of a 3 inch axle that is of schedule 40 or better. One has to consider the bending moments on that axle when you are in the vacinity of the springs and u-bolts to lift. If the manufacture is afraid of bending that axle, then the push of the axle down by the springs would ultimately bend the axle in the opposite direction. Again, in an emergency situation where you do not have all the right tools one has be reasonable and I do not see a problem with application of jacking in the immediate area of the u-bolts. Also, the larger the area of the jacking area reduces the pressure per square inch of the lift. So if one is concerned, the use of a hardwood block between the jack and axle can be improvised to prevent any axle damage. Better than sitting there waiting for a tow truck or a mechanic to retrieve or help get your unit back on the road. This is in my opinion only combining both theoretical and practical experiences with trailers and axles over 40 years.

DonandJudy_12 · 10-13-2009, 08:03 AM

When we have a tire failure, I pull the trailer up on a beveled piece of wood until the failed tire clears the ground and can be changed- I used my chain saw to cut an 8 by 8 diagonally to make the wedge I carry- Don

bulbrich · 10-14-2009, 02:21 PM

Thanks all for your input. Today 60 miles from my destination, the other tire same side blew causing a lot of damage to my unit. Road side service came out and jacked the entire trailer up on one side by placing the hydraulic jack under the axle by the u-bolt. I asked if that was OK and he said yes. He replaced both tires and removed my spare. Now have to contact insurance and see what I can do. The living room slide, and siding are in bad shape. I now may consider giving up towing a 38" unit cross country!!! It's breaking me, financially and emotional.

8e3k0 · 10-14-2009, 05:12 PM

I'm assuming those tires were the originals?
What make are they and what mileage do you have on the tires and unit? Have you had other problems with you rig?

bulbrich · 10-15-2009, 10:08 AM

The tires where 2 years old and had about 7K miles on them. The road side tech stated that the cause of the one tire I had changed which did not blow was impact separation. Which was probably caused by the pot holes in IL. Before each trip I make sure there is 80lbs of pressure in each tire. He stated because my unit sits for 6 months in WI and 6 in FL, that the temp changes draw the oils out of the tires. If I used the unit a lot, most likely they would last longer. But I sure do not want to change tires every 2 years.

Tom S. · 10-15-2009, 11:28 AM

I'm not buying his reasoning. We live and home base in Michigan where temperatures run from one extreme to another and I've never seen any evidence of oil being drawn out of the tires. IMHO, you just got hit by the Mission Tire Curse.

RCN.Stoker · 10-15-2009, 12:57 PM

I have only lifted my unit once. That was to check out the brake on one wheel. I used a 6 ton bottle jack with a hardwood block on the frame to lift most of the weight and then an axle jack, one with a u shaped top, to lift the axle at the u-bolt link. The axle jack is self locking and acts as a jack stand. I read about this technique in a thread here in the MOC but am darned if I can find it again. Bought the axle jack at Costco.

SlickWillie · 10-15-2009, 02:18 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by 8e3k0

We have to be reasonable with tandem axles and understand that when they are travelling over rough roads or terrain that each indivual axle is shocked by taking the whole weight while the other axle moves into a hole or depression or opposite over a hump. This can also mean that if your unit is not being trailered level (nose up or down), you will be creating more pressure on one axle compared to the other. A lot of times theory and practical application does not combine effectively especially if it is an emergency on the road and you have only a 6 ton or smaller hydraulic bottle jack that may not reach high enough to lift the frame and axle assemblies. Also this does not say much for the strength and quality of a 3 inch axle that is of schedule 40 or better. One has to consider the bending moments on that axle when you are in the vacinity of the springs and u-bolts to lift. If the manufacture is afraid of bending that axle, then the push of the axle down by the springs would ultimately bend the axle in the opposite direction. Again, in an emergency situation where you do not have all the right tools one has be reasonable and I do not see a problem with application of jacking in the immediate area of the u-bolts. Also, the larger the area of the jacking area reduces the pressure per square inch of the lift. So if one is concerned, the use of a hardwood block between the jack and axle can be improvised to prevent any axle damage. Better than sitting there waiting for a tow truck or a mechanic to retrieve or help get your unit back on the road. This is in my opinion only combining both theoretical and practical experiences with trailers and axles over 40 years.

That is the best post I have seen on this subject since I've been on MOC. Common sense goes a long ways!

timandsusan · 10-17-2009, 10:51 AM

Our Pressure Pro unit indicated a low tire at 70 PSI when we were about 40 miles from Carlsbad. I pulled off in about a mile at a convenient spot (lucky for me). I got out my 12 ton bottle jack and jacked up the rear axle near the U bolt, changed the tire. My spare was a little low and an oilfield service truck stopped and helped me with that. I had my 12 VDC air pressure pump out but it was going to take some time to get the tire to 80 PSI. All in all, this is the 3rd tire I have had changed or changed myself in the past 2 years. The 12 ton bottle jack worked great and so far the axle still looks good. By the way the tire went down due to a screw! So--my recommendation is to use tire monitors and use a 12 ton hydralic jack to handle changing tires.

Tom S. · 10-18-2009, 02:12 AM

A 12 ton jack is enough to lift the whole side of the trailer, provided you have enough blocks to get the lowered jack close enough to the frame. Always put the blocks UNDER the jack, not on top of it!

Harbour Freight sells 12 ton jacks for around $30.

richfaa · 10-18-2009, 04:46 AM

So....How do we jack up the 3400 when it has no axles or spring brackets or hangers but the Mor Ryde independent suspension...Guess I will have to call Mor Ryde..

Mudchief · 10-18-2009, 05:56 AM

Rich, looks like you will need 2 of those big jacks that they use in their shop to lift the side where the flat is. Now you have the excuse to purchase the big foot level system. Then you can lift the whole unit and change what tire you want.

richfaa · 10-18-2009, 07:06 AM

Looked it up......Holey Moley... Kind of expensive...no not kind of..real expensive.. not in my budget... THere has to be a plan B...

Exnavydiver · 10-18-2009, 07:07 AM

I just finished helping John attach his new 7 ton scissors jacks right in front of the front tires on his rig. The original reason for these was to add a bit more support for the frame to nullify any frame bounce along with his JT's. The result of this addition was an already in place Jacking system for changing tires. All he has to do now is add about 6 inches of blocks under the bottom jack pad and either with the crank or a drill with socket he can lift the whole side of the rig to change tires. I am thinking of doing the same mod just for the ability to do a fast tire change without having to haul out the hydraulic jack. I always have enough 4x6 blocks for this operation and can have the rig jacked up and tire off in less than ten minutes. Just another option... Dave

Delaine and Lindy · 10-18-2009, 09:36 AM

Thats a good idea Dave, I used the manuel screw type to steady the 5er a little more. However what you installed sounds a lot better. As for jacking the 5th wheel without axles you will have to use hte frame I would think which means some type of blocks. With our Hydraulic (6) jack system we can raise the entire 5er off the ground about 10" or so by pushing a button. For those interested Lippert is now installing the Hydraulic Jack system on other brands, its called the Level Up system. It is well worth the upgrade, takes minutes to set the 5er down and level. GBY...

You may also like: