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Old 04-11-2012, 10:41 AM   #1
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Granbury
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M.O.C. #7853
Monty 3075 Holding Tank Valve Handle

I lost the handle on my galley tank dump valve on my 2008 Monty 3075. It appears the rod on this handle was 14 to 16 inches long. It comes out the belly cover in front of the tires. Keystone tells me they cannot sell to an individual, Montana dealer tells me he can't get one. Does anyone know where I can order this handle?
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:17 PM   #2
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M.O.C. #10031
We lost ours the first year on our 2010 295RK.
I went to an Old Fashioned Hardware store, and made mine own.
I bought a female to female union, and threaded rod and a T handle.
I attach it before I break camp,and remove before we hit the road.
I have not permanently attached it,as I think the threaded rod will rust.
I store it in the basement next to the incoming water station.
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:23 PM   #3
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M.O.C. #9765
Quite a few of us have had the same problem. I did as Barman but applied blue locktite to the coupling and handle. Might wear out the valve shaft threads screwing it on and off.
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Old 04-15-2012, 05:07 PM   #4
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M.O.C. #6415
I did not replace the lost handle. I simply pull or push the rod. It seems to move quite easily- unlike the two in the convenience center. I can hardly move the black tank pull so I will try the Calgon. I tried the commercial valve lube from the AV store but it didn't improve the situation.
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Old 04-15-2012, 05:21 PM   #5
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M.O.C. #11455
Mine disappeared before we had the rig for three months. Keystone service center replaced it and then broke it somehow making other repairs so I'm on handle three and the rig isn't even a year old yet.
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Old 04-15-2012, 05:44 PM   #6
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It should be 1/4n.c.thread if this will help. then you can get a coupling nut to attach it to and go from there. Have you checked online and do a search for one?
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Old 04-16-2012, 12:58 AM   #7
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Use a 1/4 inch threaded rod with locknuts and put a piece of metal strap with a 1/4 inch hole in it on the end. Wrap the strap with electrical tape to smooth it out for an easier grip.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:15 AM   #8
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Is this what you guys need... http://www.adventurerv.net/waste-val...dle-p-674.html got to be easier then metal strap and tape. Now you just need some all thread and order the handle and some blue loc-tite and your back in business.
Oh and I also saw one place that had metal handles too.
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:03 AM   #9
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M.O.C. #9399
We spent the winter in Yuma, and the entire rod came loose from the spindle on the
galley tank flush valve. A piece about 1/2" broke off, and I wasn't able to rethread it back
on. I was able to open the edge of the belly liner enough that I could squeeze both hands in there. A local RV dealer was selling the Valterra replacement spindle kit for around $13. It consists of a connector about 3" long, and it has a small locking screw on each end of this connector. So one end goes on the end of the valve spindle, and of course the other end is attached to the new handle and control rod.
About two weeks after we left Yuma to head home, each day we found out that the galley tank valve was leaking and a gallon or so of sink water ended up pouring out after I removed the cap.
So plan B was when we got back home, I bought a new 1-1/2"" valve. Our Monty is 2007 2955RL and there was a short piece of 1-1/2" line that comes down from the galley tank and joins into the 3" main drain line. I had just enough space to cut out about 3/4" of the line, remove the burrs from the cut ends and then VERY carefully place one half of the valve in position with ABS cement. The second half of the valve is a bit more of a challenge as you need to slide it in and ensure that the round seals on each side of the valve don't crimp over or fall out. I used a lot of vaseline on the parts and then slid them in place. When the second half of the valve goes into place you have about 1 millisecond to do a quick line up of the valve halves so you can insert at least one of the 4 small bolts that hold both halves together. The ABS cement will allow you maybe one small movement then it is forever set.
I then opened the old original valve and removed the new handle. I know that I now have to get down on one of my kneeling pads to open the valve, but if the valve ever fails in the future at least I can readily remove it and replace the seals.
I am sure that dropping the belly liner would have been a couple of $100 job for an RV tech, and a lot of swearing by yours truly to drop the belly liner, etc. As a point of interest while
I was in there I noted that the alignment from the spindle to the edge of the frame where the handle protrudes is off by about an 1/8". Over the years I am sure this bending (misalignment) eventually caused the end of the aluminum rod to break off.
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