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08-22-2006, 06:41 PM
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#1
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Door problem...
OK, I gotta ask. We have been living in our "new home" for a month now. We absolutely love it. However, our door is a PAIN to close and open. I have not called the dealer yet on this, but I believe it is out of adjustment. I know these are supposed to close and open hard (Right???), but this is riduculous.
Most times I have to slam it 2 or 3 times to get it to latch. About 1 inch of the end of the door is scraping the bottom door jam pretty good. My weather stripping also was installed OFF the upper outside of the door. Looks as if they moved the weather stripping down off the inside of the camper frame just to try to make sure it sealed the gap that was going to occur there if they didn't do that. Probably going to be a Kodak moment for that one...
I have looked for a way to adjust the door, but can't find one. The door is jammed so tight into the latch that it is painful to try to open. Everyone in the campground can tell when the Spriks are going in and out of their camper...
If I or Cheryl had any arthritis in our hands, there is no way we would be able to get the door unlatched. Forget the silicone spray - no effect. The latch just has too much pressure on it.
Any suggestions?
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08-22-2006, 07:41 PM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Down the Road
Posts: 5,627
M.O.C. #889
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You can adjust the striker plate on the door itself. There should be 4 screws that will allow you to move. Also the door catch itself can be adjusted, memory tells me there is 2 screws for that. I had the dealership adjust mine last year as it was hard to open/close, along with trying to turn the deadbolt would have broken the key after awhile. So far, all is good now. Just a thought Dave....
2004 Chevy Silverado LT 2500HD CrewCab Duramax
2004 Montana 3400RL
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08-22-2006, 08:21 PM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: YUMA
Posts: 861
M.O.C. #2625
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It looks like your not level. You need to be level side to side, and front to back. If not then you will have to slam the door because you have it in a bind. 
Vernon & C.J. Young
05 3400RL
2006 Ford F350 Crewcab DRW 6.0 Power Stroke/TorqShift 4X4
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08-23-2006, 01:11 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Clearwater
Posts: 10,917
M.O.C. #420
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Oldguard is correct. If your door is dragging 9 chances out of 10 you ain't level. Double check side to side and front to rear. I have found that the best spot to check for level is in the freezer. YES I said freezer. Use a torpedo level. Once you have the rig perfectly level get some good level to affix to the outside. My side to side level is a  attached to the pin box that I can see from the cab while backing in. The front to rear is a small level attached to the left side right by the front jack switch.
If you find it to be level than I would be taking it back to the dealer.
Glenn
Montana Owners Home Page
RV Related Links
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08-23-2006, 01:43 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Ridgeville
Posts: 20,229
M.O.C. #2839
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Roger on the level thing Dave. Do a double check on level before you start tearing things apart. Take your hand level and check varous places...Floor, Countertop, P.C desk..also the lip on the pin box..Since the pin box is attached to the frame if it is level so is the frame. In side the camper you may find several different "levels".
Rich& Helen N.Ridgeville,Ohio.
F-350SD, Lariat, V-10,4:30 Diff, tow command Long bed, Crew Cab Dually, 06 3400RL
Mor-Ryde Pin Box
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08-23-2006, 02:08 AM
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#6
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lake City
Posts: 264
M.O.C. #3579
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Dave - If that isn't the problem (level) Burnside in Gaylord will help you, as you are still under warranty, talk to Dave in service. We did not buy our unit from them but they have done work for us (In Houghton Lake). I know it is a pain to break down everything and take it in as we had to do that a year ago, but it is easier (and less $$$$) than a whole new door!
rogersuemegan
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08-23-2006, 02:38 AM
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#7
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lake City
Posts: 264
M.O.C. #3579
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opps!!! Just told hubby that I posted and the service guy is named John not Dave......sorry - hubby was right for the second time in our 42 years :}
rogersuemegan
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08-23-2006, 02:45 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Thanks, everyone. I will check the level. I thought I was level. Had 6 ton hydraulic jacks under the frame by the axles. Found out why you are supposed to use scissor jacks instead. Neither will hold more than a day. I did slightly re-adjust my rear stabilizers. Didn't think I moved it that much, but I may have. I have camped in a popup a lot and I am very aware that they are extremely level sensitive regarding the door.
I will double check my levels. My kitchen slide is not level. Stove was 2 inches out of level and I had to shim. Was not even with the counter. Freezer/fridge are level, as I used them to level the camper initally.
I plan on getting better jacks for the axle area. I will let you know how this goes later today when I get back for multiple appointments and errands.
Thanks for the help. It sounds like a out of level problem, but I if not, I will check with the dealer. I know about the adjustment on the latch. If they want me to try that I will.
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08-23-2006, 03:07 AM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Clearwater
Posts: 10,917
M.O.C. #420
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WHOA DAVE!!!
I do hope you are not actually using those hydraulic jacks to get the trailer level. Other than the front legs nothing, not even the rear stabilizers, should be more than snug. Never try leveling by lifting the trailer with any jack as all you are accomplishing is putting a twist in the frame. Do that too often and you will realy have problems.
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08-23-2006, 04:05 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,568
M.O.C. #4890
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The easiest way to level a trailer side to side is to back the tires onto blocks. I use 2x8 pieces of lumber that are bevel cut on both ends to make it easier . Once the trailer is level, then and only then, you can snug up your stabilizer jacks to make your trailer more stable.
Using jacks under the frame to level a trailer is not a good thing.
Don & Donna
Vancouver Island
2005 Ford F350 V10 Lariat CC 4x4 LB SRW 11200 GVWR
2006 Montana 2955RL 
click on the little pic to see a big pic
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08-23-2006, 04:39 AM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
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I agree with all the above.
If the door is truly out of alignment, the only way I know to realign it is the old muscle method of grasping the open door and lifting or pushing down to bend the hinges a little. Don't do this if it's more than just a tad out of alignment.
Level definitely will make the door harder to close. But an inch seems more than what would be caused by level. Do you have a good sized level you can put on the frame? On ours I put the level on the cross frame member just under the front locker. For front to back, on ours I found the rafters in the basement storage is a good place to check it. I don't know that all would check accurately there.
Dave, I wouldn't get in the habit of slamming the door over a long period of time. Countryguy can tell you how eventually the window will drop into the door... it seems the window sits on plastic pegs.
See another Montana or Mountaineer on the road? Flash lights twice, it might be one of us!
Steve Reigle (pronounced Regal)
Fulltiming since 3/21/03
'03 3295RK
'05 Ford F250 SD Lariat CC SB 6.0L PSD/TS FX4 4x4
Our RV Travels (now Firefox-compatible)
 
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08-23-2006, 04:43 AM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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I also had a rather hard closing door no matter what state of level on both my 2000 2850RK and my 2005 2980RL. There was a plastic wedge with one screw on the bottom of the door. At first I thought it was a shipping clip or to prevent sag over time, but just for grins, I removed it ... door opened and closed like a charm and I've never seen any indication of sag.
From my RVing experiences, you will not find any 2 places on your camper reading the same on a level. I used the main floor to set my front levels I use when setting up. You'll find the stove will read different, the countertop will read different, the kitchen table will read different, the chest of drawers will read different ... ya dee dah dee dah. You'll discover this on any from a Jayco to a Mobile Suite. Just find a spot to use that you are comfortable with.
Kansas
2005 2980RL
2000 F-350 Powerstroke dually
Banks 4" SS exhaust / Superchip Tuner
Pillar mount boost / pyro guages
coolant filter
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08-23-2006, 01:15 PM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Glenn and Lorraine
WHOA DAVE!!!
I do hope you are not actually using those hydraulic jacks to get the trailer level. Other than the front legs nothing, not even the rear stabilizers, should be more than snug. Never try leveling by lifting the trailer with any jack as all you are accomplishing is putting a twist in the frame. Do that too often and you will realy have problems.
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Glenn, I had a bind on the frame and didn't realize it. Frame was twisted. I did try to just "snug" things all around when I initially setup up in July. I think my problem started with the hydraulic jacks.
After having the Montana pretty jiggle free, one night I noticed more than usual movement while walking around inside. I went out and noticed that my one jacks was leaking oil (Walmart) and I resolved to return it someday, but for now I "re-snugged" it. I didn't think more than a 1/8 - 1/4 inch raise. Seemed fine. A few days later the other one was a little low. I just "snugged" that one. Then a week later, more jiggling... I checked the back stablizers. Low and behold, they needed to be re-snugged. Then I discovered one of the jacks agains had "lost oil", so that was "just snugged".
I think you're getting the drift of things. The long stay - over a month so far - w/o moving the 5ver, magnified the situation. If I had been rigging up and down more often, I wouldn't have been jacking this thing up to the moon...
I went out today and resolved to start all over. I raised the rear stabilizers and went to release the hydraulic jacks. I released the first one and discovered to my suprise that the stablizers were now back solid on the ground. I raised then again of the ground and discovered that the frame between the axles was now back on the jack - solid. I went back and really raised the stabilizers. When I turned that oil release on that hydraulic jack, I thiought the Montana was going to fall on me. Scared the TAR out of me, it dropped so much. I am amazed I had gotten it that high.
Another month and I would have had the wheels right off the ground... I am still working on getting BAL Chocks. That might have prevented me from getting to the stage that I did with it...
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08-23-2006, 01:21 PM
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#14
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sreigle
I agree with all the above.
If the door is truly out of alignment, the only way I know to realign it is the old muscle method of grasping the open door and lifting or pushing down to bend the hinges a little. Don't do this if it's more than just a tad out of alignment.
Level definitely will make the door harder to close. But an inch seems more than what would be caused by level. Do you have a good sized level you can put on the frame? On ours I put the level on the cross frame member just under the front locker. For front to back, on ours I found the rafters in the basement storage is a good place to check it. I don't know that all would check accurately there.
Dave, I wouldn't get in the habit of slamming the door over a long period of time. Countryguy can tell you how eventually the window will drop into the door... it seems the window sits on plastic pegs.
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I'll keep that "manual" method in mind for a later reference, Steve. And I definitely don't want any windows on the floor. Much easier to close now. There is now rubbing anymore on the bottom sill.
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08-23-2006, 02:22 PM
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#15
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Established Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Grand Marais
Posts: 12
M.O.C. #615
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Before you go through all this work of checking levels, etc, open the door, and look under the bottom edge for a black plastic pice with a screw in it.It is held there by a single screw. Remove the screw and the plastic piece. This is a shipping shim to keep the door from moving in transit from the factory. My dealer was embarresed that they overlooked it in prepping. This should make your door move freely again.
Steve & Robin
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08-23-2006, 02:36 PM
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#16
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dieselguy
... From my RVing experiences, you will not find any 2 places on your camper reading the same on a level. I used the main floor to set my front levels I use when setting up. You'll find the stove will read different, the countertop will read different, the kitchen table will read different, the chest of drawers will read different ... ya dee dah dee dah. You'll discover this on any from a Jayco to a Mobile Suite. Just find a spot to use that you are comfortable with.
Kansas
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Dieselguy, I discovered this almost immediately. ALL slides are suspect. I finally settled on the main floor as my base level. Then my pin box was out of level. Several other checks of the main floor showed level. Pin box still out of level. What's up with that?
I need to move this thing a little more. Remember, I have only pulled it up from Ohio (did not rig it down - was sitting in the yard anyway) and I have only rigged it up once (took us a total of one month to do this). I have never even hooked up to it. How hard can that be??? 
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08-23-2006, 02:53 PM
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#17
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Ridgeville
Posts: 20,229
M.O.C. #2839
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The front lip on the pin box has just got to be level..
Rich& Helen N.Ridgeville,Ohio.
F-350SD, Lariat, V-10,4:30 Diff, tow command Long bed, Crew Cab Dually, 06 3400RL
Mor-Ryde Pin Box
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08-23-2006, 03:38 PM
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#18
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sduchien
Before you go through all this work of checking levels, etc, open the door, and look under the bottom edge for a black plastic pice with a screw in it.It is held there by a single screw. Remove the screw and the plastic piece. This is a shipping shim to keep the door from moving in transit from the factory. My dealer was embarresed that they overlooked it in prepping. This should make your door move freely again.
Steve & Robin
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One black shim with Phillips head screw found... One black shim with Phillips head screw removed... one call to dealership coming up...
Thats what was making that scrape on my bottom door sill. Sure, leveling the camper helped, but it still was really hard to open.
Thanks a ton, Steve! You get a Gold Star for today!
How many others out there have checked for this mysterious hidden black shipping shim??? I have been on this forum for over a year and I have never heard about this?
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08-23-2006, 03:41 PM
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#19
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Established Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Grand Marais
Posts: 12
M.O.C. #615
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Glad this helped you out. I was getting frustrated myself with a 2007 unit that had a stickey door.
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dsprik
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sduchien
Before you go through all this work of checking levels, etc, open the door, and look under the bottom edge for a black plastic pice with a screw in it.It is held there by a single screw. Remove the screw and the plastic piece. This is a shipping shim to keep the door from moving in transit from the factory. My dealer was embarresed that they overlooked it in prepping. This should make your door move freely again.
Steve & Robin
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One black shim with Phillips head screw found... One black shim with Phillips head screw removed... one call to dealership coming up...
Thats what was making that scrape on my bottom door sill. Sure, leveling the camper helped, but it still was really hard to open.
Thanks a ton, Steve! You get a Gold Star for today!
How many others out there have checked for this mysterious hidden black shipping shim??? I have been on this forum for over a year and I have never heard about this?
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Steve & Robin
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08-23-2006, 03:44 PM
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#20
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by richfaa
The front lip on the pin box has just got to be level..
Rich& Helen N.Ridgeville,Ohio.
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Boy, you would sure think so, Rich. I just have to start moving this thing around more. I would think it will prove out after a few times. Maybe even the next move...
I must have done something else screwy... The entire rig is now level inside, but the pin box is not? As Cheryl says... "Only you could do that, Dave." At least she's proud of me?
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